R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated TC6 Thread

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Ordered a plastic dif kit there. Just looking to put it mostly together to run this weekend.
Shipping to canada can take a while.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wtcc (Post 8959157)

Yes, I bought them. I know everyone who read the Litemodz thread now maybe thinks I must be a little confused and just two weeks ago I would have said you are right. It just took 5 weeks and three reminder emails until I got the first packet. Now you will ask yourself why the first. Just because they forgot to ship the inner cages of the axles. It then needed another week until I got them.
Today I could finally assemble these special axles. And it was :) & :flaming:

I ordered four axles. After assembly two are smooth as oil and two are bending when simulating steering. I couldn't solve the problem, so I use them for the rear. The assembly itself went fine without any problems. Everything fits without play.
The next problem occurred when I tried to put on the blades. The bonepins are 1.99mm in diameter. So the blades get on, but bind. Second thing the boneend is to thick. The bladeholes have to be widened and the inner blade U has to loose some material, too. Very frustrating for a product of this price and supposed for a TC6...

The next shock came when I installed it at front. It fits good, but I could not steer, because the end of the axle towards the C-hub stands out to far and has a greater radius than the originals. At this time I really wanted to throw everything in the corner and send this garbage back to the rainy place it came from! I could calm myself and analysed the problem. The C-hub need to get a 2mm radius around the oval opening edge in the middle and then the axle can move free. After that the rest of the installation went fine.

The first dry test was satisfying. No chatter at all even with full steering angle. Unfortunately the last indoor race of the season is history already and I don't know if it makes sense or will be faster on asphalt...

In conclusion Chris from Litemodz was very kind and seems to be interested in customer satisfaction. On the other hand when telling me he will send the order out the same week it was in fact two weeks later (the Royal mail just took three days to deliver). So I got the impression that the parts weren't available until I got them. All these things leave a mixed impression. Time and racing will tell if I turn out to a regular customer.

OK, thats all I have to say now. I think you guy deserve some pictures for reading:

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/1088/dsc00027dy.jpg

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/9673/dsc00028mk.jpg

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/9051/dsc00031ek.jpg

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1963/dsc00034vow.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7019/dsc00035ux.jpg

Finally I found time to test these things. Unfortunately the conditions of the carpet track weren't the same like 1.5 months before. It lost a lot of grip and it took some batteries until I cleaned the racing line of its dust.

My old TC5 with an Nosram Pearl Spec V2 had to do the cleaning. I was quite impressed with the performance of the ESC, but the TC5 behaves like a tank... After changing to my TC6 I had to (re-)accustome to its steering and its solid rear end.

Now some words about Litemodz Evo CVS:
First of all they survived my unboosted 17.5t setup as well as some smaller hits with the track boundaries. ;) More important: How behaves the car with the CVS in comparison to the kit axles:
I could only figure out one changed behaviour of the car. When entering a tight/medium tight corner under steering the car loyal follows the direction. The weight transfer is now invisible.
With the kit axles the car always hesitates one blink moment before following the steering command. And of course made these rattle noises.

Because of the changed track conditions I cannot say if it will be noticeable on the stopwatch. And if, it just feels like 50 thousands of a second.

hello all

Just ordered a tc6 ft :flaming:

I would like to know how many people have switch hard part to normal part ?

i heard hard parts broke easily

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manson (Post 9178513)

hello all

Just ordered a tc6 ft :flaming:

I would like to know how many people have switch hard part to normal part ?

i heard hard parts broke easily

Thanks

I use hard parts.

No broke over 60 runs..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Verndog (Post 9161151)

Dial-a-Grip Severe Force testing Complete!!

Weather for later in the week looked bad so I took half the day off and hit the track.....HARD!.

Good news and Bad...Starting with the Bad... 6 full 10 minutes packs--pulled 1 Speedmind wheel right thru the hex, busted 2 blades, destroyed 1 outdrive as the result, ruined body, and the grand finally that ended the day...a busted servo saver. Twice on the lid, twice over the pipe, and prob. 20+ impacts from all angles. :cry:

Had to be done, and I guarantee nobody at Reedy that I gave to test these will put their cars thru what I did today. Just one of these runs would have severly loosened the stock blocks, no doubt in my mind. :eek:

Now the good starting with the TC6 after what I put it through it did awesome, and no broken plastic parts (other then blades).

The Dial-a-Grip lock blocks were checked after every round, They were checked for loosening and developing play from twist, and they were checked for movement along the slot axis and changing the roll center angle. ZERO, and I mean ABSOLUTE ZERO movement....!!:nod: You can quickly check if they moved up along the slot axis but simply checking the small amount of tension in the set screw. If they moved there would no longer be tension and you'd feel it. Then they were double checked with a dial indicator on the PitBoss, and confirmed... absolute dead locked and solid.

We have a winner here coming real soon. Just waiting for feedback from the
other elite test animals on running with various setups to ship the batch 1 parts, and batch 2 is in motion. :tire::cool:

I got the chance to put my set of dail-a-grips through the paces today, and they worked flawlessly. I didn't put mine through the intentional pounding that it sounds like Verndog did, but I was on my lid a couple times and hit a barrier or two, and my blocks had ZERO movement. I was able to shim my arms so that they had no slop, and by the end of the day, they still had no slop. I have two TC6s, and I ran mod with one and 17.5 with the other today for a club race. The car that had the Dial-A-Grips, had no slop issues all day, and my car with the stock blocks had to be checked and tightened after every run. Nice job creating these Verndog. They are winners.

I've been using 12r5 bulkhead shims and haven't had any issues at all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manson (Post 9178513)

hello all

Just ordered a tc6 ft :flaming:

I would like to know how many people have switch hard part to normal part ?

i heard hard parts broke easily

Thanks

Don't believe this. It is not true! The hard parts are good!

Hi guys new to this Forum.

I am looking at getting back into TC racing. I had initially decided to go for the HB TCX but after carefull consideration I have decided on the ae TC6.

Can any of you recommend any hop ups to purchase at the same time as the kit and also if there is a gear diff that will go directly into the rear of the TC6.

Any and all help very much appreciated.

Cheers

Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smart_Racer (Post 9181334)

Spec-r gear diff for yokomo bd5 or yokomo bd5. Im not sure but you will have to work on that gear diff little bit to fit tc6. And probably TOP racing gear diff will fit tc6 as well, haven't tried it yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smart_Racer (Post 9181334)

Take the Yokomo! Better quality.
But you need to adjust it...

Just out of curiousity, how many here run a chassis protector on their car during the asphalt season?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE (Post 9181378)

Just out of curiousity, how many here run a chassis protector on their car during the asphalt season?

I probably will use just tape to protect the chassis. Have no special protector.

Quote:

Originally Posted by roger999 (Post 9181359)

Quote:

Originally Posted by nicoo2k4 (Post 9181371)

Take the Yokomo! Better quality.
But you need to adjust it...

Thanks for the quick replys.

What would need to be adjusted or altered to fit the yokomo diff into the TC6.

Cheers

Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smart_Racer (Post 9181408)

Thanks for the quick replys.

What would need to be adjusted or altered to fit the yokomo diff into the TC6.

Cheers

Mark

you need to remove about .5 mm off of each side. i put mine in a lathe and just removed some material. you can also do it with a dremel. you also need to dremel the dogbones a little or drill the outdrive bigger. i chose to dremel the dogbone, it took 5 min per side. i run the spec r diff in mine with no issues. they say the yokomo is better but its hard to get and even harder to get rebuild parts. spec r is making one for the tc6 due out in about a month and associated is working on there own version:nod: