Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Associated TC6 Thread >

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Like Tree20Likes

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 08-11-2011, 10:57 AM
  #3496  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Big Features's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Currituck, North Carolina
Posts: 1,893
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Good to go, Steve. Welcome! You going to Vegas this year??

[QUOTE=Steve Weiss;9511789][QUOTE=Bobert Ross;9509800]

Regarding the shock location on the arm, I felt like the inside position on the arm felt easier/more consistant to drive, yet felt like it pushed in the middle and coming out of the corner... the outside hole in the front arm felt more aggressive but a bit inconsistant in the middle/coming out of the corner, so I decided to try a hole in between... which I feel was easy to drive but still retained consistant steering throughout the entry, middle, and exit of the corner.

Regarding the piston questions:

Yes, that means 3 holes that are the same size, 1.15 mm and "10 mm OD" refers to the outside diameter of the piston which I sanded down from the stock 10.08 mm to 10.00 mm.

I tried the 1,1,1.5 piston and it wasn't bad... but I felt like maybe it had too little low speed pack as it felt like the car stayed dumped over in the corner too long for my liking... I will probably go back and revisit them at some point in the near future as I think there's still a lot of potential to be found just in shock setup... but for the time being, I felt more comfortable with the shock setup from the posted setup.

Originally Posted by Rotax125

You are correct sir!



Yep!

Made the switch about a month ago! Car keeps getting better and better every outing!
Big Features is offline  
Old 08-11-2011, 11:07 AM
  #3497  
The Evicerator
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 4,161
Default

Originally Posted by jag88
Steve, I noticed you moved the steering post to the 1 position and moved the bell crank back to the 'C' postion. Why, and is this unique to the high bite that you run on ?
Thanks.
Hey Jag,

I was looking for a way to get less ackerman for more steering but in a way that didn't make the car too difficult to drive.

With the bellcrank moved forward to 1 and shortened to c you get less ackerman but the leverage on the steering from the servo is such that it drives much more linearly... IE, I felt like I could use the wheel more to get more precise steering than before... where it felt like all the steering response was right around center.

I wouldn't think that it would be a change that is exclusive to high bite tracks though... I think that feel can be useful in most types of track conditions... there are other chassis/setup changes that can be made to accommodate lower traction.

Hope that makes sense!
Steve Weiss is offline  
Old 08-11-2011, 11:11 AM
  #3498  
The Evicerator
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 4,161
Default

BF,

Concerning Vegas:

The jury is still out... I would like to go but missing an entire week of school is hard to swallow... we will see!
Steve Weiss is offline  
Old 08-12-2011, 11:38 AM
  #3499  
Tech Adept
 
justchris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gosport England
Posts: 145
Default

Originally Posted by Verndog
Many thanks verndog
justchris is offline  
Old 08-13-2011, 06:41 AM
  #3500  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
 
fpart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: FL
Posts: 2,073
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

What is everyone using for camber link balls and cups. The stock ones seem to have too much friction even after I squeeze them. The same for the shock ends.
fpart is offline  
Old 08-13-2011, 06:49 AM
  #3501  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
jag88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,159
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fpart
What is everyone using for camber link balls and cups. The stock ones seem to have too much friction even after I squeeze them. The same for the shock ends.


I think the kit ball studs and cups are very good .... but just like with other things in the kit it takes some extra work to make them work as designed. What I did was to put the ball stud in the dremel and polish/sand it with 1000 grit paper. After a couple of tries they work perfect !
jag88 is offline  
Old 08-13-2011, 09:35 AM
  #3502  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
 
VAzRACER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 210
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fpart
What is everyone using for camber link balls and cups. The stock ones seem to have too much friction even after I squeeze them. The same for the shock ends.
I used the Associated ti ball studs and they are very smooth with no extra work needed. With the stock ones squezing rod ends with a pair of pliers works very good.

Last edited by VAzRACER; 08-15-2011 at 06:09 PM.
VAzRACER is offline  
Old 08-13-2011, 11:56 AM
  #3503  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: France
Posts: 812
Default

I have "sacrifised" a ball end and made 2 cuts on the ball with cutting pliers then fit it on drill and turn my cups on to loose them a little, perfect fit !
olly986 is offline  
Old 08-13-2011, 12:12 PM
  #3504  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,156
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I just give the boards a few really good hits. That seems to loosen up things quite nicely.
cwoods34 is offline  
Old 08-14-2011, 05:48 AM
  #3505  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Perth, Australia.
Posts: 1,343
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I don't when this happened, but I've been driving my car with a broken shock. In a 8 min quali I managed to get a 0.39con, I only found this shock when changing spring. And I haven't done much driving the last two months due to be in the USA and Winter.
Scooter79rs is offline  
Old 08-14-2011, 10:12 AM
  #3506  
Tech Elite
 
Rick Hohwart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,004
Default

Originally Posted by olly986
I have "sacrifised" a ball end and made 2 cuts on the ball with cutting pliers then fit it on drill and turn my cups on to loose them a little, perfect fit !
This is the way to go.
Rick Hohwart is offline  
Old 08-15-2011, 06:18 AM
  #3507  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
Fodarr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Anyone had a problem with the steering post screw on the top deck back out.. I just made my first shake down and that was the only thing that I noticed.. Seems it is hard to get tight.. Any thoughts?
Fodarr is offline  
Old 08-15-2011, 06:30 AM
  #3508  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: France
Posts: 812
Default

not with the steering post but we had a couple a problems with the spur gear support screws, poor quality and coming off damaging 2 spur gears on two different cars, since I changed them and put a tiny amount of threadlock.
olly986 is offline  
Old 08-15-2011, 06:47 AM
  #3509  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
 
Mugen9112's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 794
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Fodarr
Anyone had a problem with the steering post screw on the top deck back out.. I just made my first shake down and that was the only thing that I noticed.. Seems it is hard to get tight.. Any thoughts?
Use the "spanner" looking wrench supplied with the kit to secure the flat bottom part on the steering post and then tighten the top deck screw. Make sense? Not sure how well I just explained that...
Mugen9112 is offline  
Old 08-15-2011, 07:40 AM
  #3510  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
Fodarr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I think i get it.. do you access the part from the bottom of the car or from the side?
Fodarr is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.