Losi XXX-S
Originally posted by Y.Bear
Got the black belt kit and instaled it, makes a big diferance, very noticable. I did find,while i had the diffs out, that the bearings on the diff arnt all that free . So id sergest replacing them or maybe losening them up, but the bearings ive put in other cars are heaps better than these. so i might just change them all for better ones.
Got the black belt kit and instaled it, makes a big diferance, very noticable. I did find,while i had the diffs out, that the bearings on the diff arnt all that free . So id sergest replacing them or maybe losening them up, but the bearings ive put in other cars are heaps better than these. so i might just change them all for better ones.
Replacing the ball bearings is likely an annual event; unless, you upgrade to ceramic bearings.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Does anyone have some PRP shock towers that they don't need?
Tech Initiate
Well i got my weight down and have had a serious look at ceramic bearings (not cheap lol ) , I raced the car last night for the first time , "Wow " its so easy to drive and I got my consistancy down to 0.49 ( persanal best ). Bad part is i killed a speedie and had to drive my kyosho 2wd, then i broke that in the final lol.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
HElp for XXXS gurus
I need a good starting final ratio for the following:
Mediumsize track (80 foot straight)
rubber tires
Monster stock motor
Also, what is internal ratio?
thanks.
Mediumsize track (80 foot straight)
rubber tires
Monster stock motor
Also, what is internal ratio?
thanks.
Re: HElp for XXXS gurus
Originally posted by rodneybarrett
I need a good starting final ratio for the following:
Mediumsize track (80 foot straight)
rubber tires
Monster stock motor
Also, what is internal ratio?
thanks.
I need a good starting final ratio for the following:
Mediumsize track (80 foot straight)
rubber tires
Monster stock motor
Also, what is internal ratio?
thanks.
I would start with around a 7.16 and go from there. Good Luck!
Brant
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
thanks. I will try that.
Tech Adept
help with Rear roll blocks
Let me get this straight. If I want high rear roll should I use
the tall blocks for the short blocks?
Right now I have the standard Hi & Low kit Mounts. I was thinking to upgrade to the MF kit mounts.
Any recommendations,
Thanks
Rob
the tall blocks for the short blocks?
Right now I have the standard Hi & Low kit Mounts. I was thinking to upgrade to the MF kit mounts.
Any recommendations,
Thanks
Rob
Re: help with Rear roll blocks
Originally posted by Cup of Losi
Let me get this straight. If I want high rear roll should I use
the tall blocks for the short blocks?
Right now I have the standard Hi & Low kit Mounts. I was thinking to upgrade to the MF kit mounts.
Any recommendations,
Thanks
Rob
Let me get this straight. If I want high rear roll should I use
the tall blocks for the short blocks?
Right now I have the standard Hi & Low kit Mounts. I was thinking to upgrade to the MF kit mounts.
Any recommendations,
Thanks
Rob
I found that the MF mounts provided no real benefit over the standard pivot mounts. Just bling, bling.
The MF low mounts are lower than the Losi one. You need to use spacers to bring them up to Losi "low"position (which is a "mid" position in my book).
Anybody running the new 3700s in their XXXS?
Hows the fit of the larger cells?
Hows the fit of the larger cells?
Tech Adept
Back to the top....
I too have the same question since I own a G+...I as well sent an email to Losi asking if they had any tips on modding the chassis or if they plan on releasing an updated version that supports the newer cells. To me it would make sense that they do as I suspect that the XXX-S RTR will be around alot longer than the 3300 cells will be availible...
BTW I pulled a XXX-S RTR II off the shelf today and tried to stuff some GP 3700's in it....no go and by time you dremeled it the cells would likely be poking out the bottom more than would be acceptable....On a G+ it might be more of a doable thing but then your 100% committed to running nothing but 3700's....I can't afford that upgrade at the moment but maybe by time I can there might be an updated G+ chassis availible
BTW...the best way to convince Losi that releasing an updated chassis would be worthwhile is to SPEAK UP !! Let them know via email, forum posts and phone calls that the XXX-S is one car that should not be discontinued...in my mind Losi's new car might be great on the perfect tracks but for most of us weekend warriors that club race in not so perfect parking lots the G+, or even the RTR, is the best choice for an easy driving race winning low maintenance belt drive car
Just say no to dirty belts and crunchy diffs....buy a XXX-S
I too have the same question since I own a G+...I as well sent an email to Losi asking if they had any tips on modding the chassis or if they plan on releasing an updated version that supports the newer cells. To me it would make sense that they do as I suspect that the XXX-S RTR will be around alot longer than the 3300 cells will be availible...
BTW I pulled a XXX-S RTR II off the shelf today and tried to stuff some GP 3700's in it....no go and by time you dremeled it the cells would likely be poking out the bottom more than would be acceptable....On a G+ it might be more of a doable thing but then your 100% committed to running nothing but 3700's....I can't afford that upgrade at the moment but maybe by time I can there might be an updated G+ chassis availible
BTW...the best way to convince Losi that releasing an updated chassis would be worthwhile is to SPEAK UP !! Let them know via email, forum posts and phone calls that the XXX-S is one car that should not be discontinued...in my mind Losi's new car might be great on the perfect tracks but for most of us weekend warriors that club race in not so perfect parking lots the G+, or even the RTR, is the best choice for an easy driving race winning low maintenance belt drive car
Just say no to dirty belts and crunchy diffs....buy a XXX-S
If they were to do a remake of the XXX-S, they should also get the battery pack to go more inboard by modifying the tunnel.
Tech Adept
Do you think they really need to mess with it
I compared the XXX-S battery and motor positioning to the FK05...hottest, and supposably the best handling, machine on the market right now...and damn it's nearly identical
Speaking of Xray's....was out at the club track today and one of the Xray converts had a bit of a mess happening....seems a small pebble got lodged between the shock tower and the diff pulley for a few laps
Just say no to dirty belts and crunchy diffs....buy a XXX-S
I compared the XXX-S battery and motor positioning to the FK05...hottest, and supposably the best handling, machine on the market right now...and damn it's nearly identical
Speaking of Xray's....was out at the club track today and one of the Xray converts had a bit of a mess happening....seems a small pebble got lodged between the shock tower and the diff pulley for a few laps
Just say no to dirty belts and crunchy diffs....buy a XXX-S
Last edited by SteveG; 05-08-2005 at 04:29 PM.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Well, I just pulled this:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5973487818 off ebay. Do you think it will work well for stock racing on a high traction asphalt track? I'm sure I will have to dial it in but do you think all the weight savings will help much? I'm an A main racer mid packin in the sportsmen stock class with a original XXX-S so I'm thinking this might give me a tiny edge?
Last edited by Buck Nasty; 05-08-2005 at 09:14 PM.
Tech Initiate
Not bad, it looks the part. but does all that milling help? and would it not take away the idea of a xxxs chassis runing a good clean driveline? i race indoors on carpet and bye runing a light speedie and foams my car is now only 5grams overweight ( we run at 1525grams ) and with a light 1700 stick pack im down to 1475grams. but you guys might run lighter than us. as for the car its looks like they have down a lot of work on it and as it says you can now add weight in the spots that will help the car most.
Good luck
Good luck
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
If they were to do a remake of the XXX-S, they should also get the battery pack to go more inboard by modifying the tunnel.
If they were to do a remake of the XXX-S, they should also get the battery pack to go more inboard by modifying the tunnel.