Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Rayhuang, there's an easier way to build perfect losi shocks
Fill the oil up to the 1st thread. Fully extend the piston (so that all the shock shaft that will be inside the shock is showing). Slowly insert the piston/cartridge and screw all the way down. Oil will bleed out as you do this, and when you're done you can compress it the full way and it will suck back in slightly. Cycle your shocks up and down a few times or until you can hear no squeaking to get rid of all the air bubbles left. You then have a perfect losi shock . This is how i build my shocks anyway, seems to work great for me.

KevanB

When should i tighten or losen the differential? Im kind of new to the asjustable diff thing, and ALL the setups and tuning options of the xxx-s . O so many things you can do to the car!!!

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Nope not the arm... replaced them and still no dice, besides the arms are symmetrical so there would be problems on both sides...... I am going t check to see if the raised RC blocks have the same ssues and if they don't will probably cut them down.....

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

This was a while ago when I read this, and I'm not 100% positive it was for the rear toe or not, as I said, It's been a while.

Todd posted something to the effect of loosening the pivot blocks a little, and tightening them back down on Tech talk. ( the two on the chassis, not the one on the diff cover. )

Try that, and then put the car back on the setup blocks. Let me know what happens.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Been there.... I even tried pulling on the arm to force the block and then tightening...... no dice......

I spoke with Losi today and they said they never heard of the problem???? They also told me to try that..... and if it didn't work to send it to them for inspection.....

There are a few Losi drivers at the local track so I will ask them to look at it, or I will wait until the orion race and get other Losi guys to take a gander.....

volav

Had the same problem of not having enough down travel. Moved to using the outer holes in the A arm. When using the inner holes it's not the shock thats limiting travel, its the cvd! At least is on my G+. This cured the problem. Hope this works for your

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

the only fix to the rear toe in problem is to stagger your rear blocks if the loosening of the roll center blocks doesn't solve the problem.

ChrisO

what radio is included in the RTR xxx-s? i know its a jr one buy not what model, like xr2 or xr3?

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

xr2

ChrisO

Thanks.


Is the rtr worth it, or shoudl i just buy the standard xxx-s and get better gear, iv already got a lynx 3d that i can use

stumper1

iTrader: (3)

I rebuilt the rear end today and used standard offset O degree hubs and the toe is PERFECT!! The only thing I did differently was swap the RC blocks ( put the left on the right - right on the left). I will have to try the offset blocks again to see if they work now(?).

I used Hodge's Cleveland set-up and ran into another problem. With the 2R hinge pin mount I am running out of threads on my shocks to get the 5mm ride height. Should I just get some of the older 1.15 in. springs or am I missing something?

Thanks for all the input!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

AE shock clips will solve the ride height problem

KevanB

ChrisO IMHO i would go with your Hitec Lynx 3d, and a standard option xxx-s. That way you can purchase a high end stock or mod motor(this is a must), high end ESC (definately need this), and a high end servo(dont need right away, but a great upgrade), which you will all need to race competetively.

Do you have any batteries? If not, consider looking into some high end battereis also, because you cant race if you dont have battereies. The newest thing is the 3300 gold peak batteries, those will last you a long time in a race.

The XR2 will seem like nothing compared to you Lynx3d.

Hope this helps you!

tufferwilde

ChrisO - yes, the radio that comes with the RTR XXXS will do just fine!! In fact, the features that the radio comes with are very similar to those on many more expensive radios... dual rate, end point adjustments... etc. The radio in fact has the exact same features as the XR3 - just isn't FM and has only 2 model memories.

Are there far better radios out there??absoutely... but taking into consideration that the RTR XXXS sells for roughly $270 most places, I would stick with what it comes with... I disagree with KevanB on this one - no need to purchase a 190-260 dollar radio to just get into the hobby... and the same will go for batteries... if you are looking to race the car and compete at the highest levels, then yes, I would purchase high end matched packs... but for most people - that simply isn't needed, in fact, the added power of a race pack might be just the opposite of what a beginner would need...

The car that comes in the XXXS RTR kit is exactly the same that comes with the standard kit... just some of the materials (such as the arms) are formed out of a softer plastic... and can always be replaced with standard parts or even upgraded to the full graphite kit...

basically - save the money for a high end radio and high end batteries (unless you need to have the very best! In which case, I would pick up the M8, not the hitec radio...) and put some quality practice time in... the good batteries and radio can always be purchased after the fact!

just my .02

Wilde

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

tuffer - He already has the Lynx 3D.

I reccomend buying the kit, building it yourself, and putting in electronics that you want. But, the RTR is still a good option. Some LHS's will make a deal with you if you don't want the radio, and worst comes to worst, You could always sell the XR2.