2LikesLosi XXX-S
03-04-2003, 03:47 PM
#5596
Tech Master
Ko Racer, Stlnlst is correct. We use blues and silvers about 90% of the time on the indoor concrete tracks we race on. We do use the purple springs on outdoor asphalt tracks occasionally but that depends on bite and track temp. If you are limited, get two sets of blues and one set of silvers and start there.
03-04-2003, 05:45 PM
#5597
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Christopher- thanks, I wonder what causes this? I even double checked the RC blocks by switching them left to right and still get 2 deg on the right........
but why would the 1/2 deg blocks work fine....am I to assume that I can't use the 1 deg. blocks by them selves?????
Christopher- thanks, I wonder what causes this? I even double checked the RC blocks by switching them left to right and still get 2 deg on the right........
but why would the 1/2 deg blocks work fine....am I to assume that I can't use the 1 deg. blocks by them selves?????
03-04-2003, 07:21 PM
#5599
Does anyone use the AE shock ends rather than the stock Losi ones. I have snapped a couple of them already, seems to be very brittle. The AE ones is a bit longer, should they be trimmed down or used as is.
03-04-2003, 10:58 PM
#5601
Wheel Chatter and Steering Throw
My Question from a couple of days ago kinda got pushed out from all the spring rate rambling 
I am thinking that the chattering i have been getting could be from the amount of steering throw that i set. I have always set the epa in either direction to move the steering arm all the way until it hits the castor block, is that way to much? I noticed today that when i do that, the inside wheel is really sloppy. I reduced it about 20-30 points on my m8 until most of the slop was gone but dont know if that is what i should do. I set it up on the hudy to make sure it was equal in both directions and it is at 17 degrees on the guage. I would appreciate it if someone here with a hudy system could check out their car and see what you have your throw set at. If you dont have a hudy, please at least let me know how much throw you dial in as a starting point.
Thanks, Blake.
I am thinking that the chattering i have been getting could be from the amount of steering throw that i set. I have always set the epa in either direction to move the steering arm all the way until it hits the castor block, is that way to much? I noticed today that when i do that, the inside wheel is really sloppy. I reduced it about 20-30 points on my m8 until most of the slop was gone but dont know if that is what i should do. I set it up on the hudy to make sure it was equal in both directions and it is at 17 degrees on the guage. I would appreciate it if someone here with a hudy system could check out their car and see what you have your throw set at. If you dont have a hudy, please at least let me know how much throw you dial in as a starting point. Thanks, Blake.
03-05-2003, 12:48 AM
#5602
Shock length
Can anyone tell me what the rear shocks should measure when assembled. I am having trouble getting enough travel in the rear arms. It is definately the shocks stopping the arms. It just occured to me that I should check to make sure that I didn't put the short shocks on the rear but I am pretty sure that's not the case. My guess is that I have the shock ends screwed on too far.
As for the rear toe problem - I am having the same issue. I have considered going back to the standard offset hubs. Has anyone had this problem with the standard 0 degree hubs on a G+?
Wheel chatter - I had that problem on my old xxx-s and I found that I was tightening the front wheel nuts too tight. When I backed off the nuts ever so slightly the problem went away. On my G+ I still get a very slight chatter - it's worse if I crank down the wheel nuts - but loosening them hasn't completely solved the problem.
As for the rear toe problem - I am having the same issue. I have considered going back to the standard offset hubs. Has anyone had this problem with the standard 0 degree hubs on a G+?
Wheel chatter - I had that problem on my old xxx-s and I found that I was tightening the front wheel nuts too tight. When I backed off the nuts ever so slightly the problem went away. On my G+ I still get a very slight chatter - it's worse if I crank down the wheel nuts - but loosening them hasn't completely solved the problem.
03-05-2003, 01:19 AM
#5603
Tech Adept
Now let me ask you a question, why did you get Xray springs for a losi car? All losi's springs are very good and they have a lot of rates to choose from.
03-05-2003, 04:08 AM
#5604
Thank you Doug Gaut and STLNLST for the info 
03-05-2003, 04:43 AM
#5605
Ko- No need to thanks us. We all have been on the other side. I've had my car for ages and I still have questions.
I hope that the info we gave is a start in the right direction for you and the surface that you're running on.
stumpeer1- This problem is with the new and old rear hubs. I had the old hubs on my car last weekend.
I hope that the info we gave is a start in the right direction for you and the surface that you're running on.stumpeer1- This problem is with the new and old rear hubs. I had the old hubs on my car last weekend.
03-05-2003, 05:40 AM
#5606
Blakesrc -
I usually adjust my EPA to touch the caster block as well. Only difference is I glue a washer to the inside of the block to lessen the travel.
After setting the EPA I adjust the dual rate to stop slightly after bumpsteer begins. I then setup up my car to give me the steering I want.
This, for me, works well. Since I run foam, having the steering dialed all the way from block to block with the wrong setup will eat the heck out of the front tires... To great of a steering angle will cause the car to push before it grabs wearing the tires and giving you to much offpower steering.
I usually adjust my EPA to touch the caster block as well. Only difference is I glue a washer to the inside of the block to lessen the travel.
After setting the EPA I adjust the dual rate to stop slightly after bumpsteer begins. I then setup up my car to give me the steering I want.
This, for me, works well. Since I run foam, having the steering dialed all the way from block to block with the wrong setup will eat the heck out of the front tires... To great of a steering angle will cause the car to push before it grabs wearing the tires and giving you to much offpower steering.
03-05-2003, 05:58 AM
#5607
Tech Master
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Time to put down the Golf clubs and poker chips and GO RACIN!
Posts: 1,219
G+
I just got a G+
Anything tips/quirks I should know before I put it together?
Anything tips/quirks I should know before I put it together?
03-05-2003, 06:52 AM
#5608
BigTbone-the car builds beautifully. Here are my only tips:
1. Use the thread cutting screw AND also screw it into all the optional holes you might use later-like all of the camber link locations on the shock tower. Saves you a hassle later on.
2. On the pulley on the belt tensioner-make sure the bearing goes in all the way-it'll go in hard then snap into place. Check for flashing first and trim as necessary.
3. Bleed your shocks like this:
Fill w/ oil up to the third thread. Pull piston up to cartridge and screw in till only a 16th of an inch of thread is showing. Snap the spring perch on the shaft and compress the piston all the way till spring perch touches the body. TIghten shock cap down slowly and then tighten with a wrench. All shocks should be perfect like that. If you can fully compress the piston and ALSO when its pulled to full extension it sucks itself in a bit-youve got a perfect Losi shock.
4. Put a #4 washer on top of all four shock ball ends so they dont pop off in a crash.
5. -or- in the front-take associated shock ball ends, cut them about 1 or 2mm shorter and use those instead. Wont shatter in a crash.
1. Use the thread cutting screw AND also screw it into all the optional holes you might use later-like all of the camber link locations on the shock tower. Saves you a hassle later on.
2. On the pulley on the belt tensioner-make sure the bearing goes in all the way-it'll go in hard then snap into place. Check for flashing first and trim as necessary.
3. Bleed your shocks like this:
Fill w/ oil up to the third thread. Pull piston up to cartridge and screw in till only a 16th of an inch of thread is showing. Snap the spring perch on the shaft and compress the piston all the way till spring perch touches the body. TIghten shock cap down slowly and then tighten with a wrench. All shocks should be perfect like that. If you can fully compress the piston and ALSO when its pulled to full extension it sucks itself in a bit-youve got a perfect Losi shock.
4. Put a #4 washer on top of all four shock ball ends so they dont pop off in a crash.
5. -or- in the front-take associated shock ball ends, cut them about 1 or 2mm shorter and use those instead. Wont shatter in a crash.
03-05-2003, 08:35 AM
#5609
Tech Master
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Time to put down the Golf clubs and poker chips and GO RACIN!
Posts: 1,219
Rayhuang- you DA man-- Thanks for the tips..
03-05-2003, 10:43 AM
#5610
Rear toe
If the rear toe problem is also happening with the standard offset hubs is this possibly a problem with the new rear arms? I have an older xxx-s with full graphite - I run the O degree graphite hubs and they work perfect. Or is it just a problem with the new hubs themselves ( both standard AND offset )?