2LikesLosi XXX-S
03-22-2004, 04:33 PM
#9436
go back a couple pages and look at the one that has been lightened....SWEET...i am working on a jig for the mill and try something out
03-22-2004, 05:37 PM
#9438
Tech Master
SPC,
1) Aluminum and titanium screws save weight but if you use aluminum you might not want to use them in certain areas as they will snap their heads off when tightening them if the threads in the graphite aren't fully worn in so you can deck the whole car out in titanium without this problem. In other words, either go all aluminum or all titanium. Oh, and don't use aluminum bolts for the shocks.
2) Use no aluminum aftermarket parts i.e. hubs, battery posts, etc.
3) Mill parts of the chassis, you can safely round the edges up of the chassis which saves weight and helps with the chassis bottoming out on the track.
4) Eliminate the battery post and battery strap and go to battery reinforcement tape to secure your batteries.
5) Go to 14 or 13 gauge wires and keep all the wires short as possible.
6) Paint a body around the 4 oz. mark, don't have a body that has three cans of pactra mettalic green on it weighing out at a whoping 10 ounces!
7) Use aluminum or the stock losi nylon nuts wherever possible except to hold the wheels on-use aluminum ones there.
8) Don't add other stuff to the car to weigh it down- esc fans, motor fans UNLESS OF COURSE YOU ARE UNDERWEIGHT.
9) Upgrade to Titanium hingepins-this should have been the second recommendation.
10) Eliminate battery plugs and connectors, go straight with hard-wiring.
That's all I can think of right now, maybe someone could add to this. Maybe a personal transponder? Not sure if one is lighter than a handout as I can't afford a personal right now: (
1) Aluminum and titanium screws save weight but if you use aluminum you might not want to use them in certain areas as they will snap their heads off when tightening them if the threads in the graphite aren't fully worn in so you can deck the whole car out in titanium without this problem. In other words, either go all aluminum or all titanium. Oh, and don't use aluminum bolts for the shocks.
2) Use no aluminum aftermarket parts i.e. hubs, battery posts, etc.
3) Mill parts of the chassis, you can safely round the edges up of the chassis which saves weight and helps with the chassis bottoming out on the track.
4) Eliminate the battery post and battery strap and go to battery reinforcement tape to secure your batteries.
5) Go to 14 or 13 gauge wires and keep all the wires short as possible.
6) Paint a body around the 4 oz. mark, don't have a body that has three cans of pactra mettalic green on it weighing out at a whoping 10 ounces!
7) Use aluminum or the stock losi nylon nuts wherever possible except to hold the wheels on-use aluminum ones there.
8) Don't add other stuff to the car to weigh it down- esc fans, motor fans UNLESS OF COURSE YOU ARE UNDERWEIGHT.
9) Upgrade to Titanium hingepins-this should have been the second recommendation.
10) Eliminate battery plugs and connectors, go straight with hard-wiring.
That's all I can think of right now, maybe someone could add to this. Maybe a personal transponder? Not sure if one is lighter than a handout as I can't afford a personal right now: (
03-22-2004, 06:08 PM
#9439
guys, i need a little help.
for those who are using the mf front hinge pin holder, do u use the spacer or not? i used to run the losi low roll centers and the car was hooked up, but when i switched to the mf holders, the car became twitchy.
tanx in advance.
for those who are using the mf front hinge pin holder, do u use the spacer or not? i used to run the losi low roll centers and the car was hooked up, but when i switched to the mf holders, the car became twitchy.
tanx in advance.
03-22-2004, 06:15 PM
#9440
Tech Master
And are you using the spacer?
03-22-2004, 06:19 PM
#9441
Originally posted by evaa
guys, i need a little help.
for those who are using the mf front hinge pin holder, do u use the spacer or not? i used to run the losi low roll centers and the car was hooked up, but when i switched to the mf holders, the car became twitchy.
tanx in advance.
guys, i need a little help.
for those who are using the mf front hinge pin holder, do u use the spacer or not? i used to run the losi low roll centers and the car was hooked up, but when i switched to the mf holders, the car became twitchy.
tanx in advance.
03-22-2004, 06:21 PM
#9442
Tech Fanatic
what randy said.
03-22-2004, 06:33 PM
#9444
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by Randman
See.. I do listen
See.. I do listen
03-22-2004, 06:36 PM
#9445
what randy said....what James said too...
I believe the .060 spacer gets it back to the standard low roll center height.
I am currently testing the MF blocks using rubber tires and no shims. Had to Dremel the chassis a bit for arm clearance. Have not determined if I will add the spacers for Stock racing.
Did you check for the alignment changes that occurred when you installed them? Everything changes...toe, camber, droop, etc. Toe changed tons on mine without the spacers that Randy uses!!!
I believe the .060 spacer gets it back to the standard low roll center height.
I am currently testing the MF blocks using rubber tires and no shims. Had to Dremel the chassis a bit for arm clearance. Have not determined if I will add the spacers for Stock racing.
Did you check for the alignment changes that occurred when you installed them? Everything changes...toe, camber, droop, etc. Toe changed tons on mine without the spacers that Randy uses!!!
Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 03-22-2004 at 06:47 PM.
03-22-2004, 07:02 PM
#9446
Tech Master
I know this will sound strange but heck he could be twitchy with the spacers and the problem is elsewhere in the car, he didn't specify whether or not he was using them. He's just asking whether or not to use them?
03-22-2004, 07:07 PM
#9447
"but when i switched to the mf holders" sure sounds like he has to me...
03-22-2004, 07:10 PM
#9448
Tech Master
Alright I'm not gonna get into this but I don't know if he's using the spacers or not and YES you kinda feel he isn't as he uses the words"by switching to MF" but the facts aren't there. One thing is still true and that is we don't know if he is using them.
03-22-2004, 07:12 PM
#9449
Tech Fanatic
Doesn't really make sense to me either. IF he is using the included spacer plates it would make it twitchier (sp?) due to the high roll center. If he is not using the spacers and running a true LOW roll center then it should make it smoother due to the added caster. And if he uses a .060 spacer then it would be the same as a stock mid. I wish he would have gave us more info.
03-22-2004, 07:15 PM
#9450
I agree, he's probably running the francis roll centers without spacers which makes the car drive like it's on crack. The francis low roll center takes away a full .150 of an inch, the mid roll center that comes with the g-plus kit only takes away .075 of an inch and is a nice middle ground setting. Just make sure anytime you change your roll center block you recheck the angle of your hinge pin because your caster changes too. I've found every .030 shim change under the roll center (up or down) is equal to 1 - 2 degree change in caster.
racer-oZ
racer-oZ