Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Do any of you guys have problems with the front wheels chattering on tight switchback like turns? Is there a way to get rid of it? I am still using the stock ball cups and was wondering if that might be the problem? I have a ball bearing stearing kit with speedtech bellcranks if that makes a difference. Please let me know.

Blake

senna

Any news about the new yellow belt? Is it available yet and what is the part number?

Thanks.

Dave Kurschner

Low Roll Center - the new chassis as well as the previous version are the same in regards to running low roll center. However, the new low roll center blocks are actually a "mid-rollcenter" in the front. These are about .075" higher up than either the Trinity or Speedtech low rollcenter blocks that you may be familiar with. So you should not have to modify the chassis at all to run them. If you must run low-low rollcenter in the front, you'll have to clear away a small bit of the stiffening rib on the edge of the chassis so that the front a-arm doesn't hit it. The new stiff bumpers have been modified and now don't need to be modified for when you run low rollcenter.

Blakesrc - depends on what type of chatter you are talking about. In general, front wheel chatter is more a tire/insert/setup issue. But I'm guessing that you are talking about when you turn the wheels all the way to one side, that the inside wheel can flutter a bit? This is due to a couple things, one being that the CVD's are at too great of an angle and produce a throb. Alot of guys use a limiter on the steering blocks so that the wheels don't turn that far. If you are just getting a wheel-hop chatter. Try running softer oil and or inserts to help.

Cain - yes, the new rear blocks and arms help the car to rotate better in the turns. What castor blocks are you running? I agree that your oil setup is a bit out of balance. Try the #60 up front with about 50wt oil and the #55's in back with 60 wt oil. Sounds wierd but it works well. With your spring combo, your oil is a bit too thick in my opinion. If you don't have other pistons, try like 70 in front and 60 in the back. Try increasing your camber to about -1.5 all around. Run rear camber link all the way in and the front one in the #3 hole. Bring your shocks in the the #3 hole both front and back and mover your rear shock bottoms to the outside. Do that and you should rotate quite a bit more.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

try running your gearing somewhat close to what you run your other stock motors at. no one around here runs a spur gear that low so I don't know what pinion to suggest to you. Does anyone in your area run a losi with that spur and motor?

ijnek

do u mean a sound which sounds like the front CVD is rubbing against something?
i experience something like tat and after seeking advice from here,i tired doing some settings and it solved the problem. for the A-arms,on the connection to the chassis,there r spacers there.by adjusting them and either putting the A-arms to the furtherest forward or backward will solve the problem.do note that tis setting will affect the car.
Furtherest forward: u will be extending the length between the front and rear wheels.better for high-speed track.

furtherest backward: u will shorthen the length between the front and rear wheels.better for technical track.

does this helps?

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

skibum-the core stock motor seems to be an RPM oriented stock motor at ReflexRC which is an indoor aphalt track. It needs to be geared low about like a green machine. Try a 28 or 29 tooth pinion with your 118 spur this gives you a spur/pinion ratio of 118/28=4.21

Your overall car ratio will be (spur/pinion)* car ratio)=118/28 * 1.83 = 7.7. You can compare this overall ratio to any of the other touring cars running the same size tires on your track to get an idea of what pinion to run.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Someone asked for part numbers. Here is what I found.

a3209 Yellow Belt, available
a4237 Firm Bumpers, nya
a9845 New Rear Shock Tower, nya
a1229 Low Roll Center Blocks, nya

nya=not yet available.

Mal

Skibum, I saw you post on the raincity thread so I'm assuming you're talking about a gear ratio for raincity. I've never run a core motor so I'm not too sure what the exact gearing would be. I know the big majority of people running p2k motors are running a 6.7 gear ratio. If it's like a green machine, I would gear is 2-3 teeth lower (2-3 teeth 48 pitch).

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks guys for the info.

I am currently running o degrees all around. I took out the 4 degree castor blocks and it seemed to help.

As for oil, it was a change made do to the fact that the rear was way too lose when I started out. I just haven't had the chance to change it. Any suggestions on an oil combo to use? Can someone explain what lighter versus softer oil will do in the front and in the rear?

Someone here posted that the new setup (offset hubs, arms, etc) lets the chassis take the turns quicker and allows it to almost turn on a dime like other cars (I believe that was what was said). now, did you have to use the new roll center blocks to do this? If I go to the new rear end setup, what will I experience if I don't use the new roll center blocks?

I am probably gonna stop by the shop this weekend and true down the tires some as they are still a tad high. But all in all the car is working good, just need to work out those few issues listed above. Thanks for all the help.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

ok thanks. you guys reply so fast got my question in late

I think I got all you said about the settings. I don't have a piston selection, so I will try what you recommend. I will have to see about getting some oil! I think right now I only have 45, 60 and 80 in my possession.

when you say run the camber all the way in do you mean lengthen it all the way? the effects that the manual states don't seem clear.

I am running 0 degree rear hubs, 0 degree all around basically.

skibum989

Thanx guys for the help. Guess I got a little impatient , sorry. I'll try a 28 or 29 and go from there.

Doug Gaut

How soon can we get our hands on the new chassis?? Does a new graphite chassis/parts kit come with the updated chassis or can we purchase the chassis separately?

stumper1

iTrader: (3)

I had the same chatter problem. The wheels spun smoothly at any RPM untill turned to an extreme in either direction. At first I assumed it was a radio set-up problem - end point adjustments not set right. Even after shortening the steering throw way beyond an acceptable limit I still had the same problem. I have found that I was apparently over-tightening my wheel nuts. On my TC-3 I always cranked them down real tight but that does not seem to work on the xxx-s. I've now had 2 xxx-s cars and both had the same problem. To tighten the wheel nuts I now tighten them like I used to and then back off between 1/4 and 1/2 turn. Start with a small adjustment - check for wheel chatter - then adjust a little more untill the problem goes away. Hope this helps. Good luck!!!

slow

I couple of different things I have tried and seem to help are:

Take the front cvds apart and clean them out thoroughly. When rebuilding them instead of grease use some sort of polishing compound(I use Mother's). Not to much. Put back in car and run a couple of packs. Take back out and thoroughly clean the cvds again. This time use a very light grease or bushing oil. Put back in car.

or

rebuild your cvds with old parts( just the pivoting cylinder is all you need to be old and worn out).

Just make sure that when you build your cvds that the axle is very free and flops around real easy before you put into car.

KeNelson03

I've never had a problem remotely relating to this but check your turnbuckle slack and make sure there isn't too much.

Anyone know when the new stuff (hubs shocktower chassis) is going to be available at the local hobbyshop?