ttr

Hi, I have built the car last friday and raced it on sunday with the box stock setup on foam tires on very tight carpet track. I had 3thrd place in the A main in a very strong field, all cars within the same lap. So I like the car very much, it seemed to have a bit less traction than my Pro 2 or Xray used to have on the same track, but was much easier to drive.

I am very new to Losi. The shocks are a bit strange for me. Is it normal that they have some air inside? It seems to be designed to have some air, but anyway it's strange.

As the indoor season is over, next race will be outdoors on asphalt. Track will be big wide open, but some tight corners and shickanes(?spelling) partly prepared (only swept). Will run on Takeoff 22 slicks (last year they worked in these medium cold weather). Would you recommend some starting setups (no one-way, 12T motor limit)?

I heard about low roll center conversion. Do I need it to gain more traction on medium to low grip asphalt tracks?

stefan

long story (process) and I told it too often by now, sorry

I did it myself at home...

littledog

creeping death I love the sony remote.that adds flare to your car dude.I dig it!!!!

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

I LOVE MY LOSI
well w/ a bit of setup work!!!
I LOVE MY LOSI

harris

Hi everyone, I am thinking of putting the alluminium CVDs but i am affraid that it will be easy to bend....... Has anyone tried them???

chownr

Yes Ive tried them. In the rear they are excellent and a definite improvement. In the front I pulled the axle joining pin through the CVD after a couple of runs - I think it is to do with the transfer of rotational force when on steering lock. Others have problems of elongating the pin holes as well (think there is a thread either in here or Losi off-road re this). I have just bought some Titanium CVDs and axles from a company in the UK (Titanium racing and hope these will do the job - much much lighter - even than Alu and much more durable - can get them mail order from Apexmodels.co.uk). The interesting thing to note with these is that the CVDs and axles are constructed differentlr. the CVD has the ball on the end and the axle the socket thus meaning that the pin holes are further from the edge of the cup so should prevent pull out - but I guess titanium is much harder than Alu anyway!! Dont see why MIP couldnt change their design to account for this (apart from the cost of re-tooling!!)

Rich

harris

Thanks chownr,

Your infos were very good....

I am interesting also to the new CVDs that you are talking about.

Are there any informations in the internet??? any website??
What is the price of Them??
Please tell us after you have test them.

I will put my alu CVDs also in the rear of the car...

Thanks Again....

Harris

chownr

Harris

You can view Titanium racing website using this link Titanium racing

Its noit the most detailed website but gives you an idea of what they are working on. I'm not sure if the XXXs goods are listed but they do the following (prices in UK £)
CVD's -34.99
out drives - 34.99
hinge pins - 9.99
turnbuckle set - 16.99
Screw kits - 35.99
Ball ends - 17.99

Prices do vary - I bought my CVDs from Kevs Racing products for £28.

Once Ive run them Ill let you know what I think of them. Desperate to find some durable ones cos I keep bending steel ones when I break c blocks (not too often now that I run BRP bumper fortunately!!)

Rich

harris

chownr thanks,

I had the same problem with you concerning the front c blocks, and i changed them to alluminium ones..... and now I dont have any Problems at all.....

WHITESTER

Anyone have pics, or part# for the BRP front bumper?

MDM3

Here you go.
http://www.brpracing.com/brp_tc.html

MDM3

Stefan,please E-mail me about a price quote on purple anodizing the Associated VCS shock bodies. There are some Micro guys interested on another board. Thanks Mike

yodace

iTrader: (8)

Has anybody had any problems with the one way? Also what are the charactertices of the one way? How does it help the car?

MDM3

Don't have one in the XXX-S yet. Have run one in a Micro RS4.It basically turns the TC into a 2wd car off power by use of bearings which rotate freely in one direction only. It also gives you more steering and speed through a turn when used correctly. A lot of times with a standard diff the rear has to push the car through the turn because one of the wheels is losing traction. This will not happen with a oneway. It requires a different driving technique as it is very easy to "lock up" the brakes and 180. Some guys use them all the time. Some will only use them on wide open tracks and not "tight" tracks.

New to TCs Hope I'm not giving you bogus info but I think the principles are the same no matter what type of car.

JitsuGuy

MDM3 is correct.

What I'm trying to figure out now, is what is ultimately faster? The one-way, with someone who knows how to drive with it, or the normal bearing setup with someone who knows how to drive that? My conclusion so far is that the one-way is ultimately faster if you know how to drive with it, no matter what the track.

Does anyone agree or disagree on this? I'd like to know what others think.

Thanks,
Jits