Oh it doesn't make the stiffness THAT bad, not enough to harm it too bad. But it really does pinch the bearings a lot. so much so that the front right wheel won't free wheel(has a one way in the front) with it tightened up. I do think its better to have it a little bit looser because of the efficiency, but have any other Evo IV owners had that problem, or know of any fixes to it??

if your gearbox pinches your bearing then you need to re-build it--something is off. there was an article in one of the japanese rc magazines devoted to talking about building the evo4 and made special note about how important to build the gear box right.

is your rear gearbox binding? if not then why should the front? i tighten my screws as tight as possible and the drivetrain is very free.

In a Dave Chapelle voice, "I plead da Fif, Fizzy, Fufizzle!"

The Evo4 was very good at the KO race. I certainly hoped to have done better but for the most part, we were all having fun. I only finished one qualifier and one main :sneaky: mostly electronic issues/wrong tire inserts. Hara spanked me with runs-complete/highest finish, he finished one qualifier and two mains and got 2nd hehe.

I second that, if when you tighten the gearbox tops the bearings start to bind up then you have some quite major issues in there. Rick

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :p :sweat: :ha: :lol:
-Dave:D

Hmmmmm, I can tighten up the rear to the max and its not a problem. If I tighten up the front, it binds the whole drivetrain up. So much so that without the motor attached, the rear diff will work as if there is a motor attached!! :weird: So I am a little bit stunned by this. What does happen without the top gearbox cover attached is the driveshaft will move in the upwards direction at a certain part of the rotation of the wheels. I'm not entirely sure why this is the case. It's very bizarre. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have built quite a few winning cars in the past without a hitch but this does seem to be something quite weird. I might take the front of the car off and have a play and see if I can come up with a reason.

EVO4 knuckle to Pro4
 

http://www.kmodels-kai.com/topic-neo...4ashi012a1.jpg


It works:nod: and very little difference in ackerman change:sneaky: on a side note the HPI knuckle is a bit smaller by .6mm so you have to add a shim to get some of the play out.. and the Dogbones are a direct fit:nod:.. also the rear hub works fine:nod: too:D
also one more thin to take not of the HPI pins for the hubs are 2.5mm for hpi and 2.6mm for the Tamiya ones:nod:
-Dave:sneaky:

Don't you mean Pro 4 knuckle to Evo 4? :D

I was at All speed hobbies today and I saw some Evo 4s for sale, if anyone's interested, drop by:

Allspeedhobbies.com

Re: EVO4 knuckle to Pro4
 

I have some Square Pro4 rear uprights here but I think they should work different as the rollcenter is different. Even the positions for the ball studs are different. So how feels the Pro4 parts on the track?

Hi guys! I haven't read all of the thread but was wondering if any one knows if the evo4 alum one way gear will work on the evo3 one way. Haven't got a 4 yet...waiting for a hopped up version, hopefully! Thanks!:D

i dont think so... different tooth count, as i remember...

Nope, the pitch is different and won't fit.

If that's correct, howcome an EVO3 balldiff works fine in the front?

Looks like I was wrong there. I just checked and the diff gears are the same albeit made of different material and thicker. The bevel gears are different though. So I guess the alumnium one way gear might work if the gears can mesh properly.

WTF are you talking about....Thats a blue Pro4! :lol:

Will the C-Hubs and the arms work too? Thinking of upgrading to the new suspension via buying Pro4 parts ;)

BTW: If you switch to a metal one-way ring gear in the Evo3 without anything else...Youre gonna mangle an unbeleivable amount of crown gears :rolleyes: