Yep, that price should be about right for the US. We had to have them shipped to Europe wich as you know costs money and on top of that had to pay import taxes and VAT wich nearly doubled the price.

well, made the first xouple runs with the Evo yesterday... ran exactly as kit setup, except 50w front, 40 rear, CS-27 premies... running V2 8X2 on vht-asphalt.

worked really well, ran at 6mm due to some bumps in the infield. only problem i had was that the rear diff rings spun on the outdrives after 3 runs. my III used to have the same prob with the black drives. i never understood why they use the single flat rings on these.. all the belt cars, 04, 414, 415 use rings with double flats.. bound to be stronger?

maybe ill just try to get the 415 drives in the back, instead, till the white ones get here...

Evo4 is good :deathstar

Wiring
 

Theres a nice way and a nasty way to do this. Here is the 'nice' way, IMHO. Only for those who have never done this sort of thing before.

1) Remove the plug from the reciever (from your servo or ESC) and measure your desired 'shortened' route to the receiver.

2) Add 1" to this length and cut the wires.

3) Note the colour order in the plug before removing the pins.

4) To remove the pins, carefully lift the tab holding the connector (I use a magnifying glass and scalpel tip) then pull the wire. The connector should slide out easily.

5) Repeat for the remaining connectors.

6) Open up the cable clamp portion of the connector by holding the crimped portion of the connector with fine pliers and manipulating the clamp portion apart with a scalpel or pair of fine cutters.

7) Still holding the crimped portion with the pliers, pull the cable out of the connector. This may be easy or tough, depending on manufacturer. For example, Hitec are tough and Novak are easy.

8) Put the connector aside and repeat for the others.

9) Bare the cut ends of wire for only about 1/16" and, one by one, insert back into the connectors so that the bare wire rests over the crimp portion where the wire was previously. When in position, re-crimp the wire clamp portion with fine pliers.

10) Solder the bared portion to the connector. Do not over-solder.

11) If all is well, you can now replace the connectors in the housing, in the correct order. You should find that there is a neat 1/2" loop leading into the RX.

12) If everything works, cable-tie neatly and admire.


I will try and back this up with some pictures if wanted.

Hey Rod, congrats on the A yesterday. You guys look dialed with the Evo4--any chance of sharing your and david's set up for the track?

I ran the 415 for the first 2 qualifers and the car was very stable and easy to drive. On the third i decided to try the Evo4 instead and was immediately about half second faster per lap. I think the 415 setup was too stuck and the Evo4 setup was just on the loose side and that allowed me to go faster. But now that the race is over I am going to try the Evo4 sespension on the 415 and see how that works.

BTW, why did the announcer call your and david's car Evo4.5? any new stuff coming out?

Thanks!

Re: EVO 4 Shots
 

your cars always look very nice :nod:

Hi Jeff, the car handled well. I have only driven the car a total of nine battery packs including this weekend and so far so good. It still needs a few setup changes but I didn't have much time to work on those as I was having a great time hanging out. Yeah, the cars had neat goodies in them but DJ's had a whole slew of trick stuff going on.

As for setup...settings were relativly box stock and were something DJ ended up with last weekend. The changes off the top of my head are:

2mm under front inner camber link
0mm under rear inner camber link
shocks all the way out on towers
red springs with Tamiya 500-2 hole pistons
ride height 4.5mm front and rear
camber -1 front and rear
downtravel 23.8mm front and 24.5mm rear (I'm not too sure about this one)
*edit-downtravel measured with wheels off and chassis on setup board from top of the axles to board

Everything else was built as per instructions (arm direction, spacing, etc.)

The car is VERY good for the first 2-3 minutes but turned into a handful when the tires overheated. I think I was always on the wrong tire insert for the track conditions...woops :weird: Other than that, this thing has MAD RIP coming out of corners and exhibits such a microscopic amount of tourque steer with a 7x1 V2 that goes unnoticed.

Huge props to Fred Medel for winning 19T with a light weight suspension equipped 415. He, Charlie and Corey put on one of the best demonstrations I've ever seen on how to race clean and tight for five minutes.

Where can i find results of the race??? how did Jun finished? and Hara?

wow... tamiya red springs? those seem really soft. i guess with the lighter weight suspension, may not need as much spring?

TRF Spain, the results are in the KO Propr Race thread:

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...threadid=43055

Rod, thanks for sharing the setup info. I ran my Evo4 with:

Associated 50wt oil front and rear with 3 hole pistons
Yellow springs all around
shocks all the way out in front and one in per kit set up in the rear
Red swaybars front and rear
5 droop front and rear (measured with hudy droop gage)
4.5F and 5.0R ride height
1.5 camber all around
0 toe in front and 2.5 degree toe-in in the rear
Premounted takeoff 27's

essentially your old Evo3 setup.

The car worked great for me for 19T and had lots of traction but just a little on the lose side.

team bomber has released a graphite driveshaft similar to the one HPI.

oh, if anyone is wondering if the HPI graphite driveshaft fits on the Evo IV. its a no go. does not fit.

the pins are too big to fit into the drivecups :( :cry:

It fits if you have a nice machine shop to mill the parts down:sneaky: :nod:
-Dave:sweat:

that's true...on average how long does the 950 bearings last?

How well do you drive;) .. don't hit the board s and you should be fine:nod:
-Dave:tire:

don't hit the boards...sound like the Pro4..:lol: :lol: :lol:
for me..that would be 1 lap..:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: