waOscar

Sloppy Servo Saver

I had a sloppy servo saver (standard from kit) that became sloppy.
I replaced it with the Tamiya hi-torque servo saver and after about 4 weeks running, racing twice per week, it also has become sloppy.
As I'm a slop nazi, shim lovin sorta guy, has anyone had similar problem and can recommend fix.

Sean T Guy

Use the kimborough servo savers. also super glue the bearings into the graphite steering plate and shim out the "C"s into the wishbones. This should make you "slop free".

forum fodder

I am sure there have been hundreds of posts for this in this topic, but with 112 pages its a needle in a haystack job, and this is also an open question but....

Does anyone have a starting point for set up on carpet? I will be running a stock motor, on CS27 rubber tyres and the track area is 30x16m with layouts from tight and technical to open and flowing.

Basically i am looking for ideas on oil, springs, blocks camber ride height roll bars, shell. I am hoping to use either the lightweight suspension or the short lightweight suspension.

If anyone can also tell me how long a piece of string is and if there is someone that can teach my grandmother to suck eggs then that would be helpful.

Thankyou please

waOscar

Hey forum fodder, hope this helps.
I'm one of the front runners at the local carpet track and this is my current set up.

I'm not sure of the dimensions of the track I race on, but it's slightly larger than a basketball court. Main straight runs full length on one side. I've just started using the Team Brood CO27 motor and I use 48 pitch gears. I run 78 tooth spur, (you do need to dremel out a little bit of the top deck for a 78 to fit) and either 26 or 25 pinion, depends on how motor is revving. I use Tamiya Type A tyres, the pack is split between the Type As and TakeOff 22s.

Not sure if any of this helps, take what you can and good luck.

terryh

The bevel gears on the oneway of my MS strip after 1 run, well it's happened twice now and I guess it can only be down to the shims being wrong. I have shimmed as per the manual but does anyone know what they should be, or failing that, have an answer to the problem.

Terry

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Shim it so that the diff gear does not move too far away from the crown/pinion gear that causes alot of excessive play. This will strip the gears. Also shim it so that the diff gear doesn't bind up against the crown gear. It's something you have to play with while the diff cover is off. Just hold the crown gear still and move the diff gear back and forth, front to back to check out the play. I haven't run a oneway in over a year.. so I couldn't tell ya how many to add to each side of the diff.

Juan Aveytia

Have you shimmed the crown gear out. I have two shims on mine. I rarely strip gears and I run the car very hard.

Juan Aveytia

Try this set-up
Light weight suspension w/three hole out. Use middle hole
Use 40w assoc. w/ tamiya white springs 2nd hole out and yellow sway bar in front take off 27 or better rp30 in front
Use 35w assoc. w/tamiya yellow springs middle hole no sway bar takeoff22's or better rp30's
If the car is to planted then add a red sway bar to the rear.
Use the middle camber link holes on the bulk heads with a three millimeter spacer on the front camber links. Flat in the rear.
Run 2degree's negative camber all the way around
4 degree's caster blocks
5 millimeters ride height all around
rear toe 1.5 to 2 degree's front blocks b front a rear/ rear I already told you
Mazda body
set droop by pre-load( If you don't know how, ask someone at your track)
I guarantee you'll be dialed.
In the stock class, gear your car for the in field. Most people think you need to be billistic down the strait. But, it's really all about the corners and the infield. How can I forget always use one-ways with rubber carpet racing. let me know how you like the set-up.

hierog

iTrader: (6)

anybody know where i can get replacements for the rings that hold the dogbones in on the outdrives for the spool? i have a few black ones, i think, but i really need some more blue ones. i lost 1 at the track last week

thanks

vic

terryh

Thanks for your help guys.

I have noticed that there is a lot of excessive side to side play on the diff gear assembly and also back and forth play on the crown gear. I'm going to try and shim them both so that I create a mesh as I would with the spur/pinion, hope this is right.

MR JOLLY

yokomo SD ones fit & they are blue
second best i know ,but they fit

terryh

I am trying to buy 2 complete ball diffs but no one seems to have the parts in stock, I'm getting told that since Tamiya has released the Evo 5..............

Is this a typical Tamiya trait, release a new car and stop supplying parts for the 'older' model I hope not but if anyone can point me in the right direction, I would be eternally happy

MR JOLLY

Terry
all you need is evo iv diff gear & 6mm diff balls (tao5 use these aswell)
the rest can be yokomo SD stuff
diff screw,thrust race,out drives ,bearings in middle
most of this will be up pollhill by the way & this fit`s in there lovely

peejay

6mm? I think 3mm diff balls (#53379) will fit better...

BlackKat

Anyone know where I can get a new lower chassis plate for my Evo IV?