Before the braces, on hard crashes one of the ball studs would crack one side of the saver. This is due in part to the holes in the servo savers being too small and unthreaded. Forcing the ball stud through and having it cut it's own threads in the saver stresses the plastic a lot and makes them more likely to break. Run a 4-40 tap through the holes before you put the ball stud in to minimize this.

-James

The best place to start is with Mike Lufaso's page.

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html

Have fun with it!

Nick

anyone....

servo saver saver
 

Isn't the point of a servo saver to give or break first before you do damage to your servo? Wouldn't making the servo saver stronger break your servo?

The way a servo saver works is that it is a two piece system. One piece rigidly connects to the servo output, the other to the ballstuds that the tie rods mount on. There is a spring between the two pieces. The idea is that under hard impacts the spring will compress and allow the pieces to rotate against each other, lessening the shock transferred back to the servo. Making the ballstud area stronger has no effect on the servo saver's ability to perform this function.

-James

Its not really a collectors item. If you want to sell it, I suggest you do, just put it on eBay with a starting price of $25 and a reserve of the least amount you are willing to part with it for and see what happens.

Its not a current car so i'd guess you would get $50-70 but you never know on eBay. If someone really wants one anything can happen.

cheers

Oh ok. Now it makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

Anyone know if there are better .020" front springs than the ones AE makes? One hit and the spring on that corner is toast.

What do you guys recommend for a battery discharger? I need it to be able to do 4 cells as well as 6 cells.

just a silly question, how do you know when the spring is toasted?
I've been using the same 0.020 spring for at least 30 runs (and countless crashes!!) but it still look okie to me when i last check it?
how to tell when i need to replace it?

is300zx,
Novak smart tray does 1-6 cells and has adjustable cutoff from .1 to .9 also has dead short mode.

Wolf use to make some just for the 12 scale, i know they still make some for 10th but there a bigger id.

The easiest way to check them is to compare them to a new one and see if there is a length difference. What happens when you crash is the springs gets compressed and they are made out of soft thin metal and they can easy get "collapsed" making the car drive and or tweak erratic. Sometimes they do not show signs of being collapsed but they are softer now from over working or heaving crashing. Its easy to just replace with new ones they are only like 2 bucks a pair. Most people I know buy them like 5+ at a time just because they can go bad so fast. Front springs are a lot like a T-bar on a t-bar car they can easily get out of wack and they are cheap enough to just replace if there is any question.

If you built your front end right the e-clip should go over the spring with no preload and the spring should have no play on the king pin. The length of the spring is a perfect fit for the space on the king pin.

As Kevin said when they are blown out they get shorter and you can see it pretty clearly.