Got a question for the 1/12 electrical gurus. I'm wondering if there is an advantage to one of the 2 ways to wire in a reciever pack. One way is to take out the positive reciever wire from the ESC's harness, and use 2 switches to power the reciever, and esc. The other would be to just leave the ESC off, and use the RX pack to provide the power to everything, leaving the positive wire from the ESC harness in tact. Does it make a difference with either way?

info from a older post, i did way back:

this works with the LRP Q-comp & Q2 and Novak GT7 .

removing the red wire was something i only had to do on older ESC's

i have a old TEKIN 2 channel rec. i took the AMB transponder wires out of the plug, then routed/cut 2 1/8" channels into the plastic plug. soldered my rec-pack wires onto the top of the gold pins then reinserted into the plug. basically the rec pk and x-ponder are using the same plug. i add a Novak switch for the rec-pk. when i turn-on the rec-pk....... the ESC, servo, x-pond, & Rec turn on.

if you don't use a personal X-ponder just plug the rec pk into the rec. however if you don't add a on/off switch to your rec pk your car will turn on.

i did not pull the red wire from the esc to the rec. the switch for my LRP & GT7 does not get used (AND SHOULD NOT) so i removed it completely. i mount mine in a 3-2 hump config on the t-bar like the Trinity drivers used to on the SwitchBlade cars. the CRC and SM non-t-bar racers run then usually in a 5-cell flat stick config behind the servo

4-cells power the motor

5-cell micro pk powers the 4 (ESC, SERVO, REC & X-POND) items, also steering is quicker due to increased voltage

weight i don't believe is much of a issue. where i race AMB shop x-ponders (huge for a 12th scale) are used at every race. My personal x-ponder and the 5-cell pk probably weight the same +or - a few grams

i charge mine after 2 heats on a Noval Mil Pro charger at 1 amp and have had no problems on a pack that is over 1 year old. the car was raced twice a week for 6+ monsth to top that


NOTE: on some ESCs, if you remove the red wire going into the REC from the ESC....then your 4-cell pk powers the ESC and Motor. you have to turn on your REC PK first then the ESC. reverse when shutting down.

Not all ESCs are the same when it comes down to receiving power from the REC PK when the red wire is left in. in this config you may end up draining some of your REC=PK into the motor..........not sure

What I'd like to do, is on my QC2 just cut off the power switch, and use a single switch in my RX pack to control the power of everything, should this be ok?

My Reflex arrives tomorrow so I'm just trying to figure out how everything is going to go together.

I believe you are refering to the Quantum Competition 2. I have run receiver packs, 5 cells, with it a lot. I found I only had to connect the receiver pack to the receiver and use that switch to get proper function from the onboard radio system. I even tried a 2 cell LiPoly pack with the same configuration, but had servo trouble when using the Airtronics 94145 servo. I don't recommend the LiPoly battery unless you can drop the pack voltage into the 6 volt range. Good luck.

Better pics of the angled steering setup and my very purdy Hyperdrive Pro-12!

Cool thanks for the info.

Thought you might like to know that this little gizmo exsists. :D http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJF6&P=7

It has a switch allready biult in. :nod:

Randy-I do not recommend cutting off the speedo switch. It limits you to only using the reciever pack. Last season at a couple of club races I was unable to get the reciever pack charged so I just used the race batt to power everything for that run. Sometimes the little reciever packs false peak. I don't see that saving 2 or 3 grams on the switch is worth losing the insurance of being able to run the speedo normally, and you dont have to solder a new switch if you run that speedo in another car or sell it.

Randy,
Gotta agree with Chad, don't get rid of your esc switch. Just mount in a way that its hard to access so that if someone other thatn you turns off you car that dont use the wrong switch and end up letting all of the smoke out of your esc.

E

Cool sounds good, what is the best way to charge a rx pack anyway?

My packs have a plug on them so I can use a female plug as a pigtail to connect to my charger. I use a CE turbo 35 set at .3 amps. You can charge the servo pack at up to 1 amp, but I've found that I get a better charge at lower settings like .3-.5. BTW I remove the esc switch, it just looks cleaner.

Thanks for the link to that device. However, the weight (.53oz) offsets the reason to use the lipoly in the first place. My lipoly 2 cell pack with connenctor and switch was .3oz. A good 5 cell 150mah nmh pack with switch and connector is .7 oz. and doesn't need voltage control.

I just remember having tons of problems false peaking, trying to avoid that, I'll try between .3-.5 thanks.

Cheap place for damper tubes? none of my LHS have them in stock

If you want aluminum tubes, try:

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=1369

or:

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4118

If you want plastic tubes, try:

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/sho...l/smr1422.html