crimmson I know you want to get on the road but dont go cheap on the servo by the time your done you will have bought three servos fo the price of one good one!

a futaba 9602 is about 70 dollars and an airtronics servo 91457 is about the same and are high quality.
click on the south east hobbies link in my signature.
If the price is not right email the store or call they will help you!

servo
 

Chris-
The cheapest usable servo is the Hitec 225MG at about 30 bucks.
I've actually had pretty good luck with them although I prefer some other, more expensive ones (KO PDS 947 is my favorite). As you have seen yourself, my servos are extensively crash tested!
O'D

Newbie to 1/12
 

I am after a little advise from you guys, i was all set to go out and buy a associated L4 as my first 1/12 car, but then i found the new CEFX C12 car, has anyone out there being running the c12, is it a strong reliable car, and what is it like to setup.
i do like the look of the car, but i dont want to end up with a car thats going to be a hand full for a newbie (am a newbie too 1/12 but have been running a nitro scale saloon for quite a number of years)
or would i be better off with the likes of the rc12l4 with its much simplier design

any comments would be greatly appreciated:D

jas c12 is a good car but for a newbie with no 12 scale experiance get the 12l4 just because the car as a series has a history a strong following and just about everyone in the world has associated parts available.

check the hyperlink in my signature south rc hobbies they will have something for you! good luck!

Re: Newbie to 1/12
 

Just like buying a new computer, you should first know what applications you are going to be using before you buy one. Same thing holds true for radio controlled cars.

Most of the recent model releases from the various 1/12th scale kit manufactures are really designed for racing on carpet. This is evident by the thickness of the new chassis and the lack of lightening holes in the chassis. If you are going to be racing strictly on carpet, then you would want a CEFX or the Associated 12L4. Both are T bar cars but designed for carpet use. There are a couple of other good 1/12th carpet car kits available as well. The Speedmerchant and CRC Carpet Knife come to mind but they are not T bar cars. These kits have the batteries, the largest weight mass, located as close to the center of the car as possible. This provides a low polar moment which will make the car pivot better on high traction carpet. Some of the 1/12th modified carpet racers are running a stiff (CEFX, 12L4) for carpet modified and the Speedmerchant and CRC cars for carpet stock classes.

On asphalt I have found that the 12L3, Yokomo YRX12, Quad 12 and other T bar cars that have the batteries located further out away from the center line of the car, provides better traction for asphalt racing as they transfer the weight to the outside wheels better.

IMHO.

Good Luck!

Hey everyone, just wanted to let you know that we received more CEFX C12 kits in stock.

We also have the 12L4 kits back in stock.

Kraig
KT Hobbies

12L3 assembly
 

Hi all,

Does anyone have any hints on assembling the 12L3 front suspension?

From the picture, it looks like use (top to bottom) e-clip, 3 kingpin shims, upper suspension arm, 1 shim, steering block, lower arm, spring then e-clip.

Should the kingpin move as free as a 1/10 TC car or should I leave it snug? I normally open the kingpin hole with a 1/8" drillbit just enough to allow smooth free play, but is that too much.

Is it important to use the elctrical tape around the battery cells on the chassis?

Any other kit hints?

Thanks

Assembled mine just as it came out of the box.

Does anyone has a reliable source for Jaco wheels for the 12L3? They are nigh-on impossible to get in the UK. Having to resort to buying second-hand ones.

Jaco don't resond to emails, have they gone out of business?

does anybody here own a Kawada m300 RSW Limited 2

Have you tried Whim @ AMC ??

PM if you need more details !

Last time asked they only did the Calandra ones

Re: 12L3 assembly
 

Sounds like you have it correct. I currently have four shims on top and one in between the top arm and steering spindle. You don't want to enlarge any holes. It's ok if the kingpin is snug on the steering spindle. The part that should be free is the pin through the bottom ball. You can put a little trinity Red Stuff on the bottom of the kingpin.

I use strapping tape for the batteries. The kind with the strings in it. Make sure you round all the corners of the graphite chassis very smooth and seal it with CA so it doesn't cut the tape.

take care
john

yes like john said make sure u round the chassis like it says but wear a mask and do it like outside or wet it-the dust is harmful if u breathe it.

my front end is all snug as well

Re: 12L3 assembly
 

Assemble the front suspension just as the instructions say. DO NOT DRILL OUT THE KING PIN HOLE ON THE SPINDLE!! That should be a tight fit allowing the king pin and the spindle to turn and move up and down inside of the upper and lower pivot balls. Polish the king pins with any fine grit metal polish to a chrome like finish. You can also replace the upper and lower plastic pivot balls with some bronze bushings from Niftech. Use a good lubricant like Glidex II on the bronze bushings. IRS also makes a replacement king pin that has a slotted screw head on the top and a small aluminum 4-40 lock nut on the bottom. This modification eliminates the need for e-clips. Lundsford makes a titanium spindle with a 4-40 nut to hold on the front wheels instead of using e-clips. I also use the cross brace from the Yokomo YRX12 between the caster block uprights to make the front springs work to their optimum.

As far as using electrical tape on the batteries, if you bevel the edges of the chassis slots that should prevent the chassis from cutting the heat shrink on the batteries. I put an extra heat shrink on the batteries every time I assemble a new pack which also helps.

Good Luck!!