Steve
 

I use a rollout of about 41mm. Sometimes a little more.

Reciever battery pack.
 

I am wondering how many and what size cells are usually used for a reciver pack.

I would imagine somthing like 5-6 cells ? 1/3 aa ? 1/2 aa ?
enlighten me please.

anybody got a link to the CRC website???

www.teamcrc.com

I use 5 of 1/4 AAA 150mAh cells.
If you use 6 cells, make sure that your equipment can take that voltage.

cheers, also i dont suppose you know if those wheels i posted about further up the page will fit that car???

Well, the wheels on that pic is the oldest type. There is basically 3 types of "American" wheels. The oldest are from early 80s. They (like the ones on that pic) require that you put a flanged rear axle bearing in the wheel and outside of that a big cone, sometimes a thrust bearing, and a spring washer and a nut.
Early 90s came the second type called stealth. These didn't require that you take the diff apart every time you changed wheel. They used smaller washers because that would reduce the weight and increase accelleration (thats what they said anyway). Both bearings in the hub instead of one in the hub and one in the wheel. The wheels have a bigger hole so the small cone and the small spring washer can pass through it without taking the diff apart.
After that came the 3 bolt version. The same except for 3 screws instead of 2.

To answer your question;
If it has the hubs that came with v2 up to v3.0, then yes they will fit.

If you buy a new diff you will need a 2 bolt stealth hub from AE and ream out the wheels to get the small cone and the small spring washer to pass through it. However, that will leave you with a "small washer diff".
The CRC clamping left hub that is on v3 and newer, can take all 3 kinds of wheels.

<whew> Longest "yes" today...

Ohhh!
And the front wheels need flanged bearings. Only TRC use flanged nowadays that I'm aware of.
Two types here; Flanged and nonflanged. Depends on whether the wheels have a narrow gap in the middle to prevent them from passing through or not. OK, there is a third type as well but that only applies if you want to use inline steering blocks. They use a thicker axle.

Cheers, much appriciated. my only concern now is that those wheels and tyres are not going to be very good, the foam may have gone hard etc.

Yeah, that is always a problem. If they have been exposed to some chemicals and/or left out in moving air, they can go bust in a few months. Or if they have been in a plastic bag or so, they might be ok.

The big difference is the chassis. The L4 is now a dedicated 4 cell chassis with less cutouts and I 'believe' its a little thicker and adjustable battery position.

Also, the L4 comes with an IRS Big Diff, left side clamping hub, alloy servo mounts, and some other goodies...

I just built one and it went together real well.

Thanks clint, post a pic ot two when you can.

I will post one later today..

C12
 

Anyone driven a C12? What are your thoughts?

I think, we will have more out going from the L4 than the C12 because it's a very expensive car.....and not accesible to evreryone... Me and my friends have planed to get a C12 or L4 but we think about cost... and customer service....lol....:D

But yes i'd like to hear what's going on the C12...........

I just studied the drawings of the 12L3 and 12L4 on the Associated web site. If I picked up all the part numbers correctly, for less that $100 you can convert a L3 to L4. There isn't that many parts. That's even with the $45 chassis, new motor mount (which it doesn't look like is needed) and using list cost on the Associated web site. Does not include the axle, I imagine about everyone running competitively already has a big ring diff.