4 or 6
 

do i need to run 4 or 6 cells with my l3 i just got it and still learning got it done today actually at like 3 am and i have 2 bodies to paint up a nissanp35 from protoform and a speed 8 fom protoform so if ne has tips for me please help thanx

Re: 4 or 6
 

Way back when, people used to race both 4 and 6 cells in 1/12 classes. Now, 4 cell is pretty much it. You'd be amazed at how fast the cars are with only ~5V to the motors...

-dave

is there a particular 1/12 chassis that shines out from the rest?, or is it like TC cars where its much of a muchness

well, basically almost any car you buy, there is a good chance it will be using the Associated front end. Then you decide if you want a T-plate car or a non T-plate car. Then, will you use center damper plates(12L3) or damper tubes (Rugrat conversion). I personally am using the Rug Rat version of the Associated 12L3 on asphalt and it works great!!! I have set a new track record by 2 laps over what they had been doing before I got into the class, and I am working on hitting one more. Of course, that is not all car:D , which is a completely different conversation:sweat: :lol: :lol:

what does having or not having a t-plate do and when would you use one?

when would you use the damper plates and the damper tubes?do they do the same thing or do they have different affects on different surfaces?

thanks for your help

T bars cars are better for high bite tracks and mod racing. Its easier to dial out traction with a T bar car.

Link cars are goos in low bite or stock racing. They can have more rear end grip.

I like T bar cars because thay are simpler work, on all surfaces and they are proven consistant winners of big races.

Damper plates and tubes do the same thing. I they bothe work well but plates require a bit more maintenence to stay consistant. Damper tubes are the hot setup now as you can build them and they work for quite a long them before needed maintenance.

The besat cars out now are mod of the AE RC12L3 like the Quad 12, Hyperdrive, Rug Rat, T-Fource, etc.

what spare parts do you recommend i should get in case something breaks?

Chassis tabs
 

http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...ale003_540.jpg

I was looking at the Yok chassis. I noticed the chassis has some weird flaps, next to the rear pod. it's like an extension to the chassis that doesn't really do much.

Anyone know what they're for?

triming pod?
 

Originally posted by KilRuf
If you run TRC's on a 12L3 or Yok, you need to grind down the lower rear pod plate to allow clearance for the tire. TRC's are a different offset than Jaco's. Jaco's mount flush with the hub. TRC's are offset into the wheel alittle. That's why they rub on certain cars. My RugRat is slightly trimmed for this. Just get a dremel with sanding drum and go over the lower pod a couple passes til it clears. Simple, fast, easy. Just don't forget to go over it with superglue on a QTip to seal it back up.

As for Yok setup, I ran .020 springs (AE4113), thicker plate (or spring steel), Purple Front, Gray Rear, and Askari Body. 10° caster with shims to the back. 4 shims above upper arm, 2 shims under upper (kingpin). Batteries back with weight added on the rear tabs on the chassis (don't remember how much, but enough to get it at min weight). Slight toe out, with -1° ~ -1.5° camber. After that I went with a RugRat since I'll be at the Birds.

i just built up a rug rat w/ trc's and had no clearence problems, are you guys getting a correct center point measurment on the car and what are you setting rear width to? mines dead on at 6.75" w/ calandra pod plates(which are narrow) and theres plenty of clearence after it was shimmed correctly. not saying your doing something wrong but i know several others w/ rugrat and l3 cars running trc's and never run into that.

I don't think anyone has responded to you on this so here goes:

I used the inline axles on the AD "old school" front suspension in 2002 with some success. I was having trouble with the turn-in part on the steering and knew the oval guys used this to provide a more positive turn-in. I was running well with it on green to medium bite tracks, but found it was extremely agressive on heavy bite tracks. I did use a lot of variation with steering expo to adjust to the conditions, but it can be overkill. You should be able to get the offset steering blocks to work adequately on all types of surfaces. Also, the inline steering blocks did add some length to the wheelbase of the car. That could introduce another problem.

Sorry it took so long to respond. Been doing a heavy schedule of RACING (yeah). :cool:

Re: Chassis tabs
 

i guess they are more for protection in case you are T-boned, more like nerf wings.

Re: Re: Chassis tabs
 

Masami put lead weights right there so I'm assuming thats what it's for since it was a car designed for the south africa track at the worlds.

-Sushi Boy

Re: triming pod?
 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tnt2671
[B]Originally posted by KilRuf
If you run TRC's on a 12L3 or Yok, you need to grind down the lower rear pod plate to allow clearance for the tire. TRC's are a different offset than Jaco's. Jaco's mount flush with the hub. TRC's are offset into the wheel alittle. That's why they rub on certain cars. My RugRat is slightly trimmed for this. Just get a dremel with sanding drum and go over the lower pod a couple passes til it clears. Simple, fast, easy. Just don't forget to go over it with superglue on a QTip to seal it back up.

Hey, just wanted to add my opinion on this subject. I do not trim my lower rear pod. Instead I add shims onto the axle before mounting the wheel in order to keep the same with as the Jaco tires. Trimming rear lower pod will work but because of the offset the TRC tires will narrow the rear end of the car. Hope this helps.....

Does anyone have pic of how they shim old skool front end? Do you shim for caster with full tapered shims from somewhere or just reg washers? If you use reg washers does this take away from built in camber?

IRS castor block and Arms
 

Has anyone used IRS castor block and arms? What do you think of them and are they worth the investment?