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Old 08-24-2015 | 12:34 PM
  #43081  
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Originally Posted by Drew Manzella
I've never run 17.5T blinky before but I am putting a car together w/a Certified D4. What kind of rollout/FDR should I be going for?
96-100 Depending on the track size.
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Old 08-24-2015 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tekin112000
It does make sense that they touch.

I have them mounted on the inward holes. I wonder if they should be mounted on the outward holes so the make contact with the top of side pod links instead of chassis. That would make up all that extra space.

There is not much adjustment I could make with the set screw, I have them screwed almost all the way down but I still have about a quarter of an inch space
With the L12 you can raise the crossbrace by 2.5 mm (I think) and you can run normal AE springs on the links. I would recommend doing so, especially for stock or 13.5 classes.
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Old 08-24-2015 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar
With the L12 you can raise the crossbrace by 2.5 mm (I think) and you can run normal AE springs on the links. I would recommend doing so, especially for stock or 13.5 classes.
Thanks LloydLoar for the input, but I am even more confused

I moved the springs to the outward postions now they just barely make contact with the tops of the chassis links.

Are you suggesting I put 2.5mm shims under the aluminum standoffs to make the chassis crossbrace higher? Wouldn't that make my problem worse?
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Old 08-24-2015 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tekin112000
Thanks LloydLoar for the input, but I am even more confused

I moved the springs to the outward postions now they just barely make contact with the tops of the chassis links.

Are you suggesting I put 2.5mm shims under the aluminum standoffs to make the chassis crossbrace higher? Wouldn't that make my problem worse?
With the original crossbrace standoffs that were included with the VBC L12, the crossbrace was too low to be able to run AE springs on the side links without a significant amount of preload. If you want to run the springs with no preload, you needed to shim the crossbrace up by about 2 to 2.5 mm, depending on the springs you were using.

VBC might have changed the standoffs since then, but I highly doubt it. You are a better judge of how much preload you have now and whether it is ok, but my advice is based upon past experiences with the car and trying to get the car so I could run no preload.
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Old 08-24-2015 | 03:03 PM
  #43085  
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Can you post pics? Tekin?
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Old 08-24-2015 | 07:50 PM
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Here are some pics, hard to make out in the pic but this is from the rear looking forward, and thanks to all who have added input

First, springs mounted inboard as shown in kit instructions, no retainer spring adjustment, pretty big gap from spring to chassis surface



Second, I cranked the spring retainer down some, I might be able to go just a bit more But I am close to the limit of the set screw length, still a gap



Last, I tried mounting the spring reatainers outboard so it makes contact with the top of the chassis pod link. It adds what seems like a lot of preload. You can see the spring has compressed





I think I will try to get the last little bit of adjustment out of the set screw so that the spring just barely touches the chassis. Others have said zero spring preload is the best setup for side springs
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Old 08-24-2015 | 07:53 PM
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Judging from the pics, Lloyd had it spot on. You need longer screws for inboard or space up the brace for outboard.
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Old 08-24-2015 | 09:11 PM
  #43088  
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Yeah, may need longer set screws. Aren't the kit ones 3x8mm. Did you screw the set screws in too far into the spring retainer?
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Old 08-24-2015 | 09:17 PM
  #43089  
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It looks like you have the set screw too far into the retainer. I did that on my first link car build too.
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Old 08-25-2015 | 08:11 AM
  #43090  
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I wouldn't bother trying to back the set screw out, frankly. We tried that before and it still just isn't a great solution since then you don't have a lot of threads holding the retainer onto the screw and you are even more screwed if you want to try running the springs outboard. If you want to run inboard, run linear springs. For all other situations, raise the crossbrace and run the AE/VBC/whatever side springs outboard with the stock retainers .

If you don't want to deal with shimming the crossbrace, I would recommend looking at the Tuning Haus standoffs as replacements.

I think many of us who ran the car had two crossbraces on hand. One drilled for the linear springs mounted inboard, the second drilled for the normal springs mounted outboard. Makes it easier to try the different spring choices back to back.
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Old 08-25-2015 | 08:15 AM
  #43091  
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If I change side springs, what other changes can I expect to have to make...what repercussions are there?
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Old 08-25-2015 | 12:11 PM
  #43092  
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Yeah, may need longer set screws. Aren't the kit ones 3x8mm. Did you screw the set screws in too far into the spring retainer?
I did turn the set screw until it bottomed out in the retainer but it wasn't very deep, I think I would be pushing my luck if I tried to back out the set screw very much.

The kit set screws are 8mm, I am going to try some 10mm set screws and see if I can get enough adjustment.
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Old 08-25-2015 | 12:44 PM
  #43093  
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Originally Posted by Drew Manzella
I've never run 17.5T blinky before but I am putting a car together w/a Certified D4. What kind of rollout/FDR should I be going for?
I run that motor at TQ in Chino with 88 - 92 rollout
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Old 08-27-2015 | 05:51 PM
  #43094  
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A fairly simple way of understanding rollout.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KQZUOEgMog

How to build the Yokomo X-Shock. (My Method)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oad5_BWci9U

Enjoy
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Old 08-28-2015 | 08:14 AM
  #43095  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
A fairly simple way of understanding rollout.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KQZUOEgMog

How to build the Yokomo X-Shock. (My Method)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oad5_BWci9U

Enjoy
Edward,
I want to thank you for your video's for me they are a great resource for a racer that started racing 1/12th scale in the 80's stopped racing pancars for 20 years and knew nothing about setting up am l modern 12th scale car.
Please keep doing your videos and product reviews .
Thanks
Brian
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