1/12 forum
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,879
From: Fort Collins, CO
It does make sense that they touch.
I have them mounted on the inward holes. I wonder if they should be mounted on the outward holes so the make contact with the top of side pod links instead of chassis. That would make up all that extra space.
There is not much adjustment I could make with the set screw, I have them screwed almost all the way down but I still have about a quarter of an inch space
I have them mounted on the inward holes. I wonder if they should be mounted on the outward holes so the make contact with the top of side pod links instead of chassis. That would make up all that extra space.
There is not much adjustment I could make with the set screw, I have them screwed almost all the way down but I still have about a quarter of an inch space
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 341
From: NoVa
I moved the springs to the outward postions now they just barely make contact with the tops of the chassis links.
Are you suggesting I put 2.5mm shims under the aluminum standoffs to make the chassis crossbrace higher? Wouldn't that make my problem worse?
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,879
From: Fort Collins, CO
Thanks LloydLoar for the input, but I am even more confused
I moved the springs to the outward postions now they just barely make contact with the tops of the chassis links.
Are you suggesting I put 2.5mm shims under the aluminum standoffs to make the chassis crossbrace higher? Wouldn't that make my problem worse?
I moved the springs to the outward postions now they just barely make contact with the tops of the chassis links.
Are you suggesting I put 2.5mm shims under the aluminum standoffs to make the chassis crossbrace higher? Wouldn't that make my problem worse?
VBC might have changed the standoffs since then, but I highly doubt it. You are a better judge of how much preload you have now and whether it is ok, but my advice is based upon past experiences with the car and trying to get the car so I could run no preload.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 341
From: NoVa
Here are some pics, hard to make out in the pic but this is from the rear looking forward, and thanks to all who have added input
First, springs mounted inboard as shown in kit instructions, no retainer spring adjustment, pretty big gap from spring to chassis surface

Second, I cranked the spring retainer down some, I might be able to go just a bit more But I am close to the limit of the set screw length, still a gap

Last, I tried mounting the spring reatainers outboard so it makes contact with the top of the chassis pod link. It adds what seems like a lot of preload. You can see the spring has compressed

I think I will try to get the last little bit of adjustment out of the set screw so that the spring just barely touches the chassis. Others have said zero spring preload is the best setup for side springs
First, springs mounted inboard as shown in kit instructions, no retainer spring adjustment, pretty big gap from spring to chassis surface

Second, I cranked the spring retainer down some, I might be able to go just a bit more But I am close to the limit of the set screw length, still a gap

Last, I tried mounting the spring reatainers outboard so it makes contact with the top of the chassis pod link. It adds what seems like a lot of preload. You can see the spring has compressed

I think I will try to get the last little bit of adjustment out of the set screw so that the spring just barely touches the chassis. Others have said zero spring preload is the best setup for side springs
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,879
From: Fort Collins, CO
I wouldn't bother trying to back the set screw out, frankly. We tried that before and it still just isn't a great solution since then you don't have a lot of threads holding the retainer onto the screw and you are even more screwed if you want to try running the springs outboard. If you want to run inboard, run linear springs. For all other situations, raise the crossbrace and run the AE/VBC/whatever side springs outboard with the stock retainers .
If you don't want to deal with shimming the crossbrace, I would recommend looking at the Tuning Haus standoffs as replacements.
I think many of us who ran the car had two crossbraces on hand. One drilled for the linear springs mounted inboard, the second drilled for the normal springs mounted outboard. Makes it easier to try the different spring choices back to back.
If you don't want to deal with shimming the crossbrace, I would recommend looking at the Tuning Haus standoffs as replacements.
I think many of us who ran the car had two crossbraces on hand. One drilled for the linear springs mounted inboard, the second drilled for the normal springs mounted outboard. Makes it easier to try the different spring choices back to back.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 341
From: NoVa
The kit set screws are 8mm, I am going to try some 10mm set screws and see if I can get enough adjustment.
A fairly simple way of understanding rollout.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KQZUOEgMog
How to build the Yokomo X-Shock. (My Method)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oad5_BWci9U
Enjoy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KQZUOEgMog
How to build the Yokomo X-Shock. (My Method)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oad5_BWci9U
Enjoy
A fairly simple way of understanding rollout.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KQZUOEgMog
How to build the Yokomo X-Shock. (My Method)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oad5_BWci9U
Enjoy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KQZUOEgMog
How to build the Yokomo X-Shock. (My Method)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oad5_BWci9U
Enjoy

I want to thank you for your video's for me they are a great resource for a racer that started racing 1/12th scale in the 80's stopped racing pancars for 20 years and knew nothing about setting up am l modern 12th scale car.
Please keep doing your videos and product reviews .
Thanks
Brian



2991Likes