I guess there are 2 camps on this subject.

fwiw.
I've been running the TQ Booster for about a year and a half now.
Spent a day testing with a life rec pack, which used an average of 70ma per 8 min run.
Going back and forth between rec pack and booster, saw no difference in laptimes, or feel.
This was with a Tekin RS 13.5 boosted. Also on occasion with a 6.5 boosted.

Perhaps my Futaba BL-Digital servo is not as hungry as some servos ?
And Servo speed is more than enough for sure.

Anyone interested an older Corally sp-12g2? Also, I still have the rc12L club racer (graphite), good old time.

This past weekend we had a new racer show up ready to race his new car with a rec pack. He turns on the car and humm nothing to the rear wheels, confused the first question asked is the rec pack charged. Yes he says but still no motor, so we pulg in the hotwire to check all the settings. Everything is ok and should be working fine, after ten minutes of fustration he puts the rec pack on the charger only to find that the pack was not charged as he thought it was . As a result of all this he missed his heat, now while you as an experienced racer might not make this mistake had he been using a booster he would not have missed his heat. This is just a real example of an advantage to using the booster

where can i get ride height spacers in the US

Here you go Jamie
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718842

thank chris,i found some from IRS as well

Yea but I like the CRC ones better as you dont have to take the screws all the way out.

i was looking at that to

Another Option:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...im-Kit-10L-CRC

I always run switch off, since in 17.5 or 13.5, you never get anywhere near the cutoff. I usually pull 50-70 mah out of the pack. That's out of the pack, but I would assume that you'd need to pull more current from the main pack to convert up to 6v, than you'd take out of 7.4v rx pack. I guess since I've been doing this since the dark days of 1200mah batteries, I tend to lean toward the conservative in the realm of power delivery. I've always been told by the fast crowd I run with that ANY current not available for the motor in a SPEC motor class is power wasted.

I have two full seasons on one RS PRO, one 9650 servo and one 7.4 rx pack. I know this isn't the recommended set-up as Tekin put up a thread about that, but I have yet to experience a single problem, (knock on wood).

And point taken in this regard. I guess as an experienced racer I tend to take these things for granted. I can also tell you though, that I have seen a less experienced racer ruin a speedo because of the wiring involved in running a booster. Of course after we hit the GP3300 era, we didn't have to worry about any of this untill we switched to LIPO.....Hmmmm.

Quite true, things were different back when we ran 1200 cells . Overall I do think that the booster is easier but I also see the benifits of the rx pack. I guess if I had the time to go to big races I would switch as it could make that very slight difference.

Sneha Natura
Formulation infrastructure is the logical forward integration to provide quality Natural product proprietary formulations in the following segments:

* Antiarthritic
* General debility
* Ano-rectal diseases
* Memory enhancers
* Hepato protective

Chondroitin Sulphate, Sodium Potassium, Chondroitin Sulphate India.

the argument goes both ways i think.

I have see new racers with booster that never even get on track and waste the whole day to find a faulty booster. i ahve seen boosters that work on the bench and when put on the track, the car does not even roll. I have seen boosters that fail and take out rx. the list goes on.

to each his own. i am a EE by education and to me. a battery is a battery, but a booster is a circuit and well, you know when a battery has fails, but to know when a circuit has failed is sometimes black magic