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Old 08-15-2015 | 08:58 PM
  #43066  
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Someone sold metal gears for that servo, but I forget who it was.
It is these:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Gear_Set.html

But the Google says that either they may not fit very well, or the ratio is different and it slows the servo down so I am not sure it is money well spent...
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Old 08-16-2015 | 05:47 AM
  #43067  
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Originally Posted by Drew Manzella
Anyone have any suggestions here - I have been running a Futaba 9650 servo and I chunked a tooth. It isn't affecting the operation but I know it is on its way out. Does Futaba have a metal gear equivalent to this servo? Their website isn't very good for researching this sort of thing. I really want to stick with using the surface mount ear style servo and the only other one I know of that mounts this way are the Airtronics which are too small to fit my chassis without having to redrill holes.
9650 servos with metal gear update is popular with the 500 heli crowd. they use mks 9660 gears that were a drop in.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=599224
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Old 08-16-2015 | 06:32 AM
  #43068  
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Originally Posted by avs
9650 servos with metal gear update is popular with the 500 heli crowd. they use mks 9660 gears that were a drop in.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=599224
The only ones I see available on the MKS and other sites are for the 9660A. Unfortunately, according to the link you provided, these do not fit.

Does anyone have a current source for the 9660 gear set?
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Old 08-16-2015 | 07:52 AM
  #43069  
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All I know is I have never seen a 9650 break using a small Kimbrough servo saver. The medium and large ones are stiffer and can break them.
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Old 08-16-2015 | 08:06 AM
  #43070  
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Originally Posted by wingracer
All I know is I have never seen a 9650 break using a small Kimbrough servo saver. The medium and large ones are stiffer and can break them.
I had a medium/large on mine. I have a small on it now but the damage was already done. What I did do however was flipped the 2 damaged gears 180 out and it seems to not be hitting that notch anymore. I still plan to get another set of gears and see what happens.
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Old 08-19-2015 | 06:50 PM
  #43071  
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Having been out of 1/12th for many years, I need a starting point for rollout for 17.5, on a 80x36 carpet track.
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Old 08-19-2015 | 06:56 PM
  #43072  
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
Having been out of 1/12th for many years, I need a starting point for rollout for 17.5, on a 80x36 carpet track.
Depends on the motor but usually somewhere around 100mm.
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Old 08-20-2015 | 05:57 AM
  #43073  
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Originally Posted by wingracer
Depends on the motor but usually somewhere around 100mm.
I run about 88 on about 55deg timing. So timing matters as well.
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Old 08-20-2015 | 08:31 AM
  #43074  
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Originally Posted by bdmpastx
I run about 88 on about 55deg timing. So timing matters as well.
I run more gear than that in 13.5. Pretty big track though.
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Old 08-21-2015 | 02:49 PM
  #43075  
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I am building a VBC 12L.

Are the side springs supposed to touch the chassis.

Right now with no battery no electronics the springs don't touch the chassis until I twist the rear pod.
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Old 08-21-2015 | 04:33 PM
  #43076  
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Originally Posted by tekin112000
I am building a VBC 12L.

Are the side springs supposed to touch the chassis.

Right now with no battery no electronics the springs don't touch the chassis until I twist the rear pod.
Yes they do. It is how you adjust the tweak. You may need longer
set screws for the spring holders so you can get them to touch the chassis.

It might be helpful to look at the build directions for the 12R5 go to the
teamassociated web site and download the 12R5.2 pdf
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Old 08-22-2015 | 05:10 AM
  #43077  
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Originally Posted by Toyota Tom
Yes they do. It is how you adjust the tweak. You may need longer
set screws for the spring holders so you can get them to touch the chassis.

It might be helpful to look at the build directions for the 12R5 go to the
teamassociated web site and download the 12R5.2 pdf
It does make sense that they touch.

I have them mounted on the inward holes. I wonder if they should be mounted on the outward holes so the make contact with the top of side pod links instead of chassis. That would make up all that extra space.

There is not much adjustment I could make with the set screw, I have them screwed almost all the way down but I still have about a quarter of an inch space
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Old 08-22-2015 | 06:28 AM
  #43078  
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You will need longer set screws for the inner holes. What you have will work in the outer holes and the springs on top of the links.
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Old 08-22-2015 | 06:58 AM
  #43079  
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In a perfect world you would position all of your electronics so that the car balances out and the tweak is right with no side springs on the car at all. Then run your springs so that they are barely touching at all.
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Old 08-24-2015 | 12:18 PM
  #43080  
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I've never run 17.5T blinky before but I am putting a car together w/a Certified D4. What kind of rollout/FDR should I be going for?
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