Just for the record. When my car hops on a wrinkle in the carpet and kinda bumps the sweeper, of course I'm on full thottle, thats only like 2 thirds of the way down the straight. And even if I let off the thottle before I hit the pipes it still would be going about the same speed. But I do kinda see your point here though because crashes are always less worse when your not on the thottle.

How do you guys make sure your tweak is set right? I was told buy a guy at my track that you put a hobby knife in the exact center of your car at the front and lift the front of the car up. And which ever wheel lifts first you loosen that same sides tweak spring a little bit :confused: . Or mabey I have that backwards. But anyway, when I get the two front wheels to lift off the set up board at the same time, the right side of the front of the chassis is jacked up about a MM over the other side :mad: . And I can't figure it out. Also the back of the chassis on the right side sits above the bottom plate on the rear pod. But the left side is perfect :confused: . I would really really like some help here. And if it is my chassis that's tweaked than that sucks because it's been that way since the first time that my buddy adjusted the tweak. So this has been confusing me for a long time, but I was just too stupid to not mention it for a long time ;) . Thanks for any help here.

racerdx ive never run anything other than a t plate car i would think its a lot less prone to brake than a linkage car

robk - I run the IRS prototype suspension pieces on the front of my Speedmerchant REV3. I like it a lot. Dave has said that it will be a little while longer before he can distribute production units. I think he was talking about a little before Thanksgiving, which is the Indoor Champs at Cleveland. He also said the parts would not be cheap. I don't have a clue of the prices for this thing, but I do know that they are currently all machined. I don't think there will be molds made by Cleveland, so I think that the ones you will be able to purchase will also be machined.

i set the tweak by putting car on a flat surface place coins on both front wheels and lift the car with a blade carefully which ever coin falls first is the light side. the side that fell first is the side you tighten down remember to lift the car slowly or buy a tweak board which i only use for touring car anyways

Defently want to use the pennies or the IRS (shameless plug, even though I dont run the car or run for them, lol:D ) scales which should set you back quite a little (on the other hand two pennies will cost you... two pennies;) ). The tweak boards are designed for sedans and really arent sensative enough to provide you with precise enough tweak measurements. Also its very important, make sure the surface you are tweaking on is level. you can use the level from a buddies tweak board, or go buy a level at a hardware store to judge to see if the surface is perfectly horizontal. If you need to adjust your board, your buddy Abe will come in handy again... just place him or one of his other metallically immortalized friends in a corner of the board to raise it to make the rest level.

Also the plastic peice, I think, think (so dont quote) is an AE piece that is used to hold the t-bar in place.

But if you put the coins on the front wheels won't the wheels just spin when you lift the car. I guess I'll just have to try it :rolleyes: . Here's another thing that happened a while ago before I first adjusted the tweak. I just got back from racing sedans one night before I had the electronics for my carpet knife (but of course I brought it anyway to show off :lol: ;) ). When I got home my sister pulled her backpack out of the car and it hooked my new 12th scale and pulled onto the street. The only thing that happened was that the aluminum spring retainer on the shock popped off the shaft. But that was the only visible damage done. Do you guys think that the chassis could of been tweaked from that. It fell out of a surburban so it was probably about a 1.5 foot drop or so.

Stormperson- The plastic piece that I broke is an associated piece, that's why I said I was lucky that I broke that and something that I would have to order.

racerdx yes when you lift the car the wheels will begin to spin there fore the light wheel will begin to spin first and that ccoin willdrop first , forget the scale thier too exspensive no oneone really uses them except for the oval guys.

Hi guys,

Any suggestion for an alternate fluid to use in a damper tube, other than the Losi hydra fluid?

Thanks.

It was posted a copy of page back... most people use diff. oil for gas sedans & 1/8 scales.

Personally I use Ofna 5000 wt. or 7000 wt if I want the car to react faster.

Racerdx6:

T-bar cars may not break upon hard impacts, but you can pretty much bet that the t-bar will be damage causing inconsistant handeling. The fiberglass becomes over stressed (broken fibers) and thus the handeling issues.

As far as tweak scales I use the one from MIP and it is sensative enough to use to adjust my touring and my 1/12. In my opnion, all tweak scales are good for is to get you close to being flat you will still need to make adjustments based on how the car FEELS on the track.

Eric

I am just using Associated 80 wt. shock oil because I kinda like my car reactive (and it was the heaviest oil I had :rolleyes: ;) ). But if that's too twitchy for you you can always just use a heavier oil.

racerdx i placed a small washer about .100th oh inch under the top and bottom spring on the dampner springs and use associated silicone diff lube. it maintanes consistant through the whole run, try you'll like it

I use BRP #7460 thick silicone lube. The Bud's lube is thick enough to stay in the tubes but still allows the car to center quickly. It is also easier to find than the Ofna lube.

D.P.

d powell i think ofna or some other 1/8 offroad company even 1/8 scale onroad car sell different viscosity silicone of a very thick consistancy for diferentials .

Thanks guys. I have some silicon diff grease 100,000 at home so I'll try that. ;)