Originally Posted by Apex (Post 5647268)

http://www.rc-japan.de/BigPics/rcs0509_5.jpg

This is a prototype of the Tamiya F104. Pretty interesting design for a t-bar car. What I don't understand is, why don't we see more 1:12 t-bar designed chassis' like this? Why do all the current 1:12 scale t-bar cars have the t-bar elevated above the main chassis rather than on the same plane as the main chassis like the Tamiya F1's? Just throwing this out there for discussion...

Originally Posted by Trips (Post 5647451)

I agree with most of your post, but I disagree with this part. One damper tube drying out would not affect the car in the way you describe. There's no need for both damper tubes to be identical, in fact the first damper tube cars had only 1 tube.

I don't recall if it's the GenX or Speedmerchant manual that suggests removing one of the tubes and driving the car to check if it's over or under damped, but I've done it often enough to know that there won't be any side to side issues.

Sometimes I'll run 10K in one tube and 1 or 2K in the other... the car feels fine side to side.

Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX (Post 5647622)

I'm no genius, I was just throwing out ideas.

Originally Posted by wvince (Post 5647481)

Probably because of the limited room in a 1/12 scale car, the ideal battery location is where it currently sits on the chassis. I haven't seen a 1/12 scale with the battery in front of the T-bar.

If I recall, AE's first 1/12 scale (12e or 12i) was a similar T-bar design as that F104. It was part of the chassis. That chassis layout also had all the electronics mounted up high. There's virtually no way that would work with today's speeds and grip. Traction roll would be imminent.

Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX (Post 5647644)

Actually, after trying it on my GenX 10, I feel my idea has some merit. The tube with the lube in it pulls out much easier than it pushes in and the other side does nothing. With one side filled and nothing in the other, at least by hand, it seams to rotate easier to one side than the other.

The tubes are smaller on the Genx10 comparably to the 1/12, so that may mean all the difference. I only tried it because my Genx10 tubes needed to be cleaned and refilled anyway. I'm not going to try it on the 1/12.

Originally Posted by wvince (Post 5647481)

If I recall, AE's first 1/12 scale (12e or 12i) was a similar T-bar design as that F104. It was part of the chassis. That chassis layout also had all the electronics mounted up high. There's virtually no way that would work with today's speeds and grip. Traction roll would be imminent.

Originally Posted by wingracer (Post 5647814)

I remember seeing Cliff Lett's enduro 10LSS from years ago. It had the chassis cut out so the t-bar could be mounted flush and the pivot balls mounted on plates above the chassis. This allowed a stick pack on a quick release tray to be mounted across the car for rapid pack changes. Therefore, AE has obviously tried the design yet chose to stick with the bar above the chassis.

Originally Posted by Grenade10 (Post 5649368)

Corally 12M had the option to use a stick pack and or saddle pack. The pivots were above the chassis, with the 'T-Bar' flush with the chassis. I've used this car to compete and win our 48min enduro race over the past few years. Allows for a quicker battery change, and for fun, fits an orion lipo pack for some really fast 1/12 scale outside racing.

Originally Posted by SlowerOne (Post 5653374)

In all seriousness, if you are looking for the ideal design for LiPo, the BMI DB12 is the one to have. ;)