All the recommendations (I have found so far) for tyres for asphalt tracks seems to double pink front, pink rear.

Has anyone else found purple front, magenta rear to be faster in some circumstances?

There was a competitor using that combination at the NSW Championships at SMA last month. It seemed to be working pretty well for him, but this was only after the grip came up from 2 days running.

Hey guys, I am about to pull the trigger on the Serpent S120 link tube for 17.5t. Any thoughts on reliability and tune ability?

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^ If nothing else, the finished product looks pretty damn nice...

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I thought I would remove the crappy quality phone pics and put a few decent quality ones on instead.

I mentioned that I am not too serious about this chassis, I made it up just for a bit of fun really. It did go quite well at the club on Friday and will try it again with some better compound tyres on this coming Friday.

Next job is to slot the t-piece. The side to side action is really nice (the tweak screws at the front of the t-piece limit the amount of action, rather than adjust the tweak. The tweak is controlled by the small (front AE 0.18 springs) that sit nicely on the damper tubes), but the front to back motion is a touch too hard.

The spring on the centre damper tube just controls the pre-load of the pod when race ready.

So, nothing too serious, just for fun and here are some better pics:

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...2009/009-4.jpg

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_2009/016.jpg

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...2009/010-3.jpg

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_2009/022.jpg

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...2009/027-2.jpg

Cheers guys :-)

wingman2, Sexy looking car. If you don;t mind I'd like to see how the rear pod attaches to the alum Chassis.

Looks really nice

The Serpents are great cars, the only thing i dont like about them is the aluminum caster blocks. They bend kind of easy and cost $15 for one to replace. Other than that great car.

Thanks Jason. I used the carbon pivot plates from a 12M as a base for my ones, which I shaped to help keep the LiPo in place. So, from the bottom of the chassis upwards, each screw (4 in total) goes through the chassis, then a washer (which acts as a spacer), then a nut and then through the carbon plate. A stand-off then screws down on the top of the same screw and then the carbon top plate screws down onto that stand-off. There are 4 of the screws to keep everything tight and keeps the whole setup quite stiff. If you notice in the pics, you'ull see the 4 screws going through the chassis that line up with the 4 screws that go down through the top plate.

Cheers, Chris.

Nice car Wingman

Thanks mate, Chris.

The purple/magenta combo was working for me at the nats until the rained ruined the traction.

Anyone else tried purple fronts magenta rears on asphalt?