The XR10 Pro 1s has internal caps. Mine never came with external caps. I wish I could post description

Genesis RC in Marshall, MN has what your looking for. Shoot them an email or call. Twin cap roughly an inch long.

Does someone know what viscosity the blue spooge from Speedmerchant is? 30k?, or maybe stiffer?

See this post:
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 235mm Pro10 Pancar

Sorry for taking so long.
Well after hours of testing, mostly repeating the same tests over and over, only cause I was in disbelief. Between the 12awg and 14awg the difference was almost nothing. I didn't even bother with the 13awg wire.
Maybe I should try 16 awg next.
I just don't have any.

Test from 16-18 to see if there’s any noticeable drop.

I will, just need to order some wire.

:lol:

I'm not laughing at you, just the people who keep telling everyone to use ridiculous wire on their (usually blinky) cars as it gives them more power.

Will be interesting to see what difference 16awg makes, even then I would only expect it to cause a difference in high power motors.

I have a turbo30 dyno I've been playing around with, I was using 16ga tq wire at first but after changing motors a few dozen times the solder wicked and I put some 14ga I had laying around on it. I didn't see any actual difference in my results, even re-tested a motor.

I also have a CE turbo 45, the problem I have with it is even if I max out the tq to 15.9 it doesn't pull the motor below 6000 rpm.
The dyno is fine for knowing mid range to top end power. So I bought a minipro where I bought the heaviest flywheel they have, and able to start the pull at any rpm including 0 rpm.I usually start around 2,500 rpm, during a race we rarely go below that. For the wire test I start the test at 1000 rpm and it pulls around 66 amps at the start of the pull.

Ya, its not the best setup for brushless motors but ive learned more about tuning brushless motors in the last few week than I did in 4 years of racing. I even sorted a few of my "dud" motors out making them useful. I also have a fantom facts machine but not sure if its worth the trouble of getting to work.

vafactor- check out shur lube. I bought all of them from wind tunnel racing 1-6 and diff lube as well. as far as wt goes not sure but I only use their lube so I've never worried about it

took out about Pro One..."no longer selling to the public" on WIKI

fixed broken link for Trinity Motolyser DC 1S Booster Part # TEP20249 and added output info.

on the link item description it states: "A must have for 1 cell lipo racing due to ROAR banning receiver battery packs." did ROAR actually ban receiver packs in pan cars? i did some searches only found some controversy on 1/8 cars years back

Anyone have a great method for lubing the kingpins? I have just been putting a glob of 20k on end of a hex driver and awkwardly lubing above and below the steering block and arms. Any way to do this more effectively without disassembling the kingpin/steering block assembly altogether?

I usually take it all apart so that I can clean all the carpet fuzz off. Even though I brush my car off and try to get into all the pivot points after every run, I still find fuzz build up when I take it apart. It only takes a couple minutes per side so IMO it's worth the effort.

I put a little dab of oil/grease on the pin and kind of roll it between my fingers so that it gets a thin coat. Assemble, wipe any extra oil off the pin and go.