Sounds like you ought to be close. The 5 degree blocks are a good place to start, and a shim on each side is also a good start. You might want to get a set of the 10 degree blocks to try as well... If you find you have a lot of initial steering into the corner, then a push on the exit, you can move both shims to the back... if you have little initial steer, but plenty at the exit, move the shims forward... if you have a good balance between initial and exit steering, but need less steering in general, you could go to the red shock spring (it's two pounds lighter than the copper) or lighter on the side springs... If you want more steering in general, you could try the ten degree blocks for the upper arm...

Another tire combo I like is Parma grey rear/coral front...

They are .975" in diameter. They are IRS rings and so they better fit IRS axles...lol!

We do a lot of work with Dave Irrgang and we use IRS components everywhere we can on our cars.

Note that BMI racing carries a lot of stuff that is common to all 1/12th cars.

For example, we are one of Jaco's dealers in the US. We stock all 1/12th compounds and all the common 1/10th tires including World GT Spec tires.

Have a poke around the site if you get a chance.

Thats what I was looking for. A kinda guide line to follow. Thanks a bunch.

I should have it ready for wed to get a few shake down runs before FRI night.

DK

One more thing, does the IRS axle require a non-flanged bearing inside the spur gear?

It uses a flanged bearing in the spur.:cool:

Hi AdrianM,

I'm not poking in the right spot because I can only find two items offered under 1/12th tires. How can I order other compounds?

thanks

You are in the right spot. The website only shows what is in stock.
We are waiting (and waiting...) for Jaco to send tires to us.

Photos and videos from the BRCA 12th scale Tamworth national are now available at www.carsrcracing.co.uk. As well as videos of all 3 A mains, I've tried to get a few decent car photos in this time, so included are Elliott Harper's XRay XII (with latest updates) and Chris Kerswell's V-Dezign Carpet Ripper 2.0 prototypes, as well as the BMI DB12RR, Hot Bodies 12x, Associated RC12R5 T-bar and Serpent S120.

Trev

Speaking of tires.....I've been out of racing for a while and I come back only to find a huge variety of compounds and wheel diameters to choose from. I see a bunch of guys running the new larger rims and cutting the foam down to nothing and saying that my old small rim stuff will not compete. CRC, Jaco & Parma brands, yellow, pink, grey, white & black rears. Magenta, Pink, Double Pink, Purple, ect. fronts.

What is everyone running these days (on a local level) for rim size and do you see a big difference from the older small rims? Seems crazy to me to buy something that is smaller out of the box than I would usually run. Is the extra $$ really worth it?

I was always under the impression that all the rubber came from the same manufacturer and that the harder stuff just came from the outter edges of the sheets and the softer from the center. Is it different now?

I've been running old Purple fronts and Pink rears for the last couple of weeks with good results but need to start thinking about new and not sure which direction to go. Your thoughts?

Not necessary to run the latest brand of tire to be competitive, but if you go run a big race, chances are that you will need the latest to get that extra edge.

The popular Jaco Prism combos at my track have been Purple/Gray or Lilac/Yellow.

As for different brands, I can tell you from experience that the Jaco Prism wheels are flexible and will usually only warp a little on impact, where as the CRC wheels are a harder plastic that will crack on impact, but they are rigid and hold their shape well during cornering for a more flat running tire.

I have actually seen guys go back to the small rim stuff for club races where the traction was not cuckoo. I also have used a lot of the small rim stuff just to burn it up at club races. That being said i think the major advantage is at large events where the traction will be very high.

Here's a good explaination of the rubber:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=27

The Jaco yellow rear is a really good tire for 17.5/13.5. It sort of fits in between gray and white. CRC also sells the same rubber with an outer ring of gray to help with chunking, which is common especially on bumpy tracks.

The lilac front (kind of a soft purple) and dbl. pink fronts are good with the yellow rear for 17.5/13.5.

I have run dbl. pink-fr. and pink-r. for 10.5 quite a bit too. Just depends on the amount of traction at your track.

Traction at the local track is actually pretty good the first day on a new layout and after a week or two can rival a big race bite. The guys that went to Cleveland this year said that we have more bite at home than they did there. I can't imagine needing anything softer than Purple fronts. If anything, I would like to free up the rear a little as I'm running a t-bar car. Everyone else run links cars so I can't just go by what they run.

the jaco lilac and yellow combo is probably the best combo on track right now. It works both in high tracktion major races as well as club races. Most companies went to the large wheel because they are lighter. less rubber make the entire wheel lighter. also most are not cutting them real small anymore. at the IIC the "magic" size was 43.5 for the rear.

I have run the "old" tires as well as the jaco lilac/yellow combo. the lilac/yellow combo is faster, but I am still competative with the old tires. with the new brushless 17.5, the purple/gray combo seam to push. you can run a gray rear, but the yellow actually frees the rear end up. also the biggest that I would run would be a 46.5. anything bigger will rub a well mounted body.

As the isgroup said, the softer rubber sometimes frees up the car. This happens with pinks sometimes too, the softer rubber twists more.