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Originally Posted by SPC Racer
(Post 5409220)
what is the tire combo of choice for 17.5 on low and high bite?
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Originally Posted by SPC Racer
(Post 5409220)
what is the tire combo of choice for 17.5 on low and high bite?
Pink rears don't seem to chunk as easily but they're a little slower. If you're running at a track that has a ton of traction or tends to pick up crud on the tires (tracks that run TQ8) black fronts will help stop the build up. |
Originally Posted by petk
(Post 5409247)
Who has a good solution for storing different front springs?
All the boxes I own has to large compartments for 2 small springs. Best, Peter |
on carpet, yelow rear and lilac fronts. high or low bite. i have been successfull with gray rears, but they get a little squirly at 7min.
7 day pill holders re your friend for all your 1/12th all parts needs. they have some with locking caps to keep parts from spilling out. |
Originally Posted by Zerodefect
(Post 5407814)
I'm all for Lipo but not in stock with different motors. Single cell lipo isn't to practicle sounding anyway. When its time to make the switch away from NIHM we should just make that switch and allow old NIHM racers to still participate until they upgrade to the new rules.
2 seperate classes is not the awnser at the club level. The more racers per class the better. We shouldn't thin out the class further. Isn't one of the reasons pan cars are coming back because there is only one class and one set of rules for better racing. It seems for WGT and 1/12th everyone only has one class for each:17.5, 4cell. If we have to run lipo why not bring back Mod. Any motor, Any battery. 2 stock classes and a mod is too much, but I still think there should only be one class unless you really have alot of racers showing up. Though I think A123 makes Lithium ION batteries in smaller sizes now. 2 cell is a little hotter than 4 cell nihm but not much. Maybe we can jump to those. I'm thinking about getting a little LiIon 2cell battery for my nitrobuggy so that I won't have to run a voltage regulator.(I have to run a Castle Creations reg to get my lipo output down to 6.9 volts for my radio/servos.) Lets just stay with Nihm a little longer until the tech gets worked out so that everyone can run the same battery/motor like stock was intended. Now everyone can run togather and be one big happy family.:sweat: |
+1 for yellow rears and lilca fronts. I have also run pink, double pink and magenta fronts on lower bite tracks.
What length sensor wire are y'all using in 12th? I need to get a few from TQ, but theres like 15 different lengths!:weird: I'm sure it makes a small difference so I will mention I am running a sphere in a 12R5 on the LH side. |
Go to the local pharmacy and get a 7 day pill organizer. You can seperate out each spring rate. Works great.
Originally Posted by petk
(Post 5409247)
Who has a good solution for storing different front springs?
All the boxes I own has to large compartments for 2 small springs. Best, Peter |
Originally Posted by petk
(Post 5409247)
Who has a good solution for storing different front springs?
All the boxes I own has to large compartments for 2 small springs. Best, Peter -James |
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
(Post 5409540)
+1 for yellow rears and lilca fronts. I have also run pink, double pink and magenta fronts on lower bite tracks.
What length sensor wire are y'all using in 12th? I need to get a few from TQ, but theres like 15 different lengths!:weird: I'm sure it makes a small difference so I will mention I am running a sphere in a 12R5 on the LH side. |
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
(Post 5409540)
+1 for yellow rears and lilca fronts. I have also run pink, double pink and magenta fronts on lower bite tracks.
What length sensor wire are y'all using in 12th? I need to get a few from TQ, but theres like 15 different lengths!:weird: I'm sure it makes a small difference so I will mention I am running a sphere in a 12R5 on the LH side. |
The ESC is mounted on the "drivers side", same as the motor. The sensor input is on the far left side of the chassis. Sounds like 125-150 should work.
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
(Post 5409655)
The ESC is mounted on the "drivers side", same as the motor. The sensor input is on the far left side of the chassis. Sounds like 125-150 should work.
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect
(Post 5407814)
Though I think A123 makes Lithium ION batteries in smaller sizes now. 2 cell is a little hotter than 4 cell nihm but not much. Maybe we can jump to those. I'm thinking about getting a little LiIon 2cell battery for my nitrobuggy so that I won't have to run a voltage regulator.(I have to run a Castle Creations reg to get my lipo output down to 6.9 volts for my radio/servos.)
Lets just stay with Nihm a little longer until the tech gets worked out so that everyone can run the same battery/motor like stock was intended. I've been using A123, (the smaller 1100mah cells) cells in a 2s2p configuration and loving them. Very light, geat punch and thay will last the full 8mins if your geared correctly.:nod: |
Hi all,
I have a current model CRC GENX 1/12 scale for sale like new with extras if keen pics and details are in the Australia for sale section or feel free to PM me. Cheers, |
Originally Posted by cholawa
(Post 5409740)
110 works good on a gen x. 125 should be a guarenteed fit but may have a little too much slack. 150 is probably too much
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