66Racer

iTrader: (5)

hey guys,

thinking about giving onroad another shot with a local parking lot race i just found out about.

I would like to keep my choice within losi even though no one runs them local.

What are the pro and con of the xxx-s vs jrx-s type r. I was surprised to see the xxx-s discussions both on the 1st page and nothing from the jrx-s one up here so thought I would ask you guys why you still favor the older chassis.

Also are there any hard to find parts I should consider before buying a used xxx-s. I know for my xxx-4g+ its impossible to find front mip cvds. ANything like that for the s?

THanks
Anthony Remis

paraletic

iTrader: (13)

For a parking lot track the sealed driveline is a big plus for the xxxs
the fact you own a xxx4 means you will know how to work on the xxxs very easily
plus some parts are interchangable such as the diffs some diff covers etc

i like the fact it's very easy to work on (when needed) and it still persons very well against the newer chassis'

hard to get parts would be stuff like the after market hop ups by Matt Francis and dynamite etc

tho pretty much all the other parts are still available - bar new graphite chassis' - rtr chassis is stil avail new as is the complete rtr car package

I've actually been running an rtr car ATM and it seems to work excellent (possibly the extra flex of the rtr chassis helps gain traction on slippery tracks?)

I had considered swapping to another chassis before but I havnt seen the need to as yet as the xxxs does everything I need it too an prob then some

66Racer

iTrader: (5)

Yeah that's a good point. I dunno why but it sucks that the losi 4wd vehicles aren't near the top where they can be. Guess all the carbon fiber cars are more eye catching. That's why I was surprisedbno one had the jrxs. Oh well.

Guess if I give it a go I will pick one up.

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Thanks C&B !!!

BTW, does anyone have the measurements for the Matt Francis Alloy roll center blocks? As we all know those are tough to find and I know John Stranahan modified his plastic/graphite ones by simply sanding them down. If somebody has the measurements, could you post them. If not I'll go to John's thread and hunt them down. Thanks

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

NP EVO

The MF Edition blocks are 0.15 lower that the Losi High blocks. 0.075 lower than the Losi 'low' blocks.

speedster1919

Well the great part on the xxx-s cvds is the front and rear are the same and still can get in alum and steel. The probem with Losi is they didn't make their own turnbuckles and cvd's on some vehicles. When that mft decides to quit making replacements it is a problem. Funny the XXX-4 you can still buy new and can't get front cvd's. You have to go yo LCD's for the front.

speedster1919

Somebody asked when the XXX-s was in it's prime. From about 2000-2004 the Losi XXX-s was king of the hill alot. I think they started in 1999.
Someone asked for parking lot tips. I will do my first parking lot race in 2 weeks but they warned me to make sure ride height is 1-2mm higher. Cracks and little pebbles can be a problem and scrubbing speed on the surface. Our indoor carpet season is just ending and I was about to drop down 1 spring rate front and rear from blue and red. But I will keep them for aspalt.
EVO I thought you were dialed! I see you have controlled drift like I had on carpet.
Losi makes 40-35-30-25 lb springs for these cars. I can't imagine who would buy these.

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

Rough night. The shudder I had in the front got worst but I found the problem.
The bottom hole in the spindle had obrounded causing slop. The buttonhead finally fell out and steering went down the tube. I replaced the spindle and ended up 2nd in the B. There is still some shudder and I'm wondering if my front diff is just a tad too tight. Think this might cause the shudder?

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

C&B, aside from your mechanical issue I think the shudder may have to do with that 0R pivot block. I remember John S. mentioning something about why the car was designed with the stock sweep angle so I looked it up in his mod thread. Indeed , the rearward angle was designed to help this issue along with actually helping the driveline maintain front traction. Once we eliminate the angle, driveline shudder,especially on hard acceleration, is more likely. I don't know how to paste that info but I simply went to his thread and did a search using "pivot" as the search term. It was actually a question I had posed to him. BTW, I'm getting the same thing with OR and a spool. I've also noticed more belt skip so I can guess the driveline is seeing a different type load.
Speedster, welcome back !! I see you got my message. Yeah, my car WAS dialed pretty well but I've made numerous changes that I'm now stabilizing. We went from VTA to RCGT and now back to VTA so the needs are different. In that time I've gone to JRXS shocks and I also tried the newer part number Vintage tires. Although HPI told me they're the same as the official D compound tires with only a different tread design, I would beg to differ. They seem softer, have a much flatter surface area and they wear very quickly. Not recommended !! I was also testing a heavier fluid in shocks(50wt) and using Tamiya short springs. The untested combination didn't work well at all. I've also come to have a better understanding of spool use. On our track surface and our track designs I think the spool offers a very small window of usefullness. I'll switch to a diff for next outing as we now have a better vision of what aspects we should incorporate into the design based on VTA performance and the type of drivers we have.
Simply put, I made a cardinal mistake....too many changes at one time !! Had i stuck to "1 change and watch the results" I could better see where the traction problem comes from. LIVE AND LEARN !

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Boy, been reading a bit more on John Stranahan's website regarding suspension tuning. I cannot say enough about the help available here. If any XXXS guys haven't got the link..here it is. It still amazes me how much info is available on this car considering many think it's over the hill. 10+ years old and still competitive !! Now that's value.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/index.html

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Whats happening out there folks ?? Anybody out there racing on asphalt or concrete using the high roll center blocks?? I'm curious cause I'm about to re-do my setup and currently running high roll centers. Everything I read seems to indicate that this would be a better situation for medium-low traction concrete surface we run on.

speedster1919

Well our first outdoor race is May the 16th I think at Hobbytown Indy. The indoor carpet program stoped last sunday. I never ran VTA outdoors yet.

I tried low centers for carpet and went back to high.
The ticket seems to be high in the front and low centers in the rear I may try.

paraletic

iTrader: (13)

I had the highs in mine before but swapped to the lows
car felt heaps better an more traction so I've left them in

maybe later I may try playing with it all again but ATM my set up seems to be working nicely
just need some better tyres I think

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Thanks fellas. How about droop settings ?? I'm gonna try setting according to John S's suggestion. Ride height 5-6 and droop around 3. I now beleive the droop may play a big part in xxxs handling. I think especially with the spool. To much droop in back with all that forward bite probably not good for traction in the rear.

Micro-E

iTrader: (4)

FWIW: I am running 5mm ride height in front and 5.5 in the rear with no droop screws in the rear of my G+ (~2mm on the Losi gauge) - I still could use more front traction. The rear of the car is planted, I can't get it to misbehave. My buddy's RTR is a different story. Similar droop and RH but very tail happy - with softer springs to boot.