t4driver88

iTrader: (1)

if i stiffen up the rear will the car turn more, or sorfen up the front what can i do with the springs jim gave me for more turning

LeadFoot

AdrianM:

You need to add an option on the setup sheet that says if the riser plates are on or off because its not possible to tell from the setup sheet unless I am missing something.

For instance, when you say you raise the inner rear hinge pins by 1mm -- is that with or without the riser? I know from your post but not from the actual setup sheet.

Also, how is droop being measured? I don't know what is meant by "droop is measured above ride-height" What exactly does that mean? Do you measure with the shocks and sway bars on?

I use the method in the Hudy Setup Guide but I can tell from the different values from the various drivers (Paul, Mo, Adrian) that how its measured is different so I am always unsure when I look at the various sheets.

BTW: Not trying to be a pain just hoping to learn more!

mo

iTrader: (7)

Generally on the setup sheet, if it doesn't say "no riser plate", it mean the risers are on, since that is the stock setting. As for the droop measurement, "above ride height" means the ammount of chassis upward movement above where your ride height is set. For example, if the droop measurement is 2 and the ride height is set at 5mm, you would measure that by using your ride height gauge to make a maximum ride height with the shocks fully extended of 7mm.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

There are lots of adjustment that we make that aren't on the setup sheets. Thats why the note boxes are stuffed with fine print on some of them...lol!

LeadFoot

AdrianM, Mo

Thanks for the reply -- I apologize for being so thick headed. I printed out a few more setup sheets and I do see the notes.

Mo, thanks for explaining -- I did not realize that there was a second way to measure the droop. I tried what you described and now I understand.

Thank you again for the replies

LeadFoot

I have another question regarding setup. This question is regarding the shocks. I don't remember seeing this with my Axis 2 but I do see this with my Mi2.

This is more pronounced on the front of the car than the rear.

Looking at the car from the front, my right shock collar needs to be screwed down more than my left in order to archieve the desired ride height of 5mm. To be exact, the right shock collar is 2.8mm from the collar to the top of the shock. My left shock collar is 1.3mm from the collar to the top of the shock. The rear shocks are about the same (within 0.2 mm)

I know that the chassis is not tweaked because I used all the methods John Kerr had listed a few posts back and from all indication there is no tweak. I also checked for binding and my arms rise and fall the same on each side. I also tried setting ride height without the sway bar.

The question is, are the shocks compensating for the weight of the battery? Would adding weight to the opposite side fix this problem? My impression has always been that the left and right shocks should be turned down the same length [But most all my racing experience is off-road where the battery is in the middle and the Axis 2 was a split pack].

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

That can happen if there's a big difference in the balance of the car. Where do you have the battery located? If it's all the way out, you could have to adjust the shocks more to get the tweak right. Also if you're using some really light electronics. The more weight on the right side, the more the right side shocks need to be preloaded. Personally I like running the batteries all the way in. It handles better and sets up more balanced.

Speedie

Leadfoot at a minimum you need to make sure your car is balanced left to right. It can be done by balancing it along the centerline or using a set of scales. Without the car balanced tweak cannot be right at both ends of the car. With a 4 scale system you can set your ride height then adjust your tweak(crossweight) and your rideheight wont change on you. Then your collars should be more even and your car will handle better.

mo

iTrader: (7)

One thing that is often not checked is spring length. I've seen variances in packages by as much as 2-3mm. That would definately change your preload levels.

IslandBwoy

Thank you leadfoot! you are asking all the right questions. I've had these questions and keep forgetting to ask but now you've cleared alot of things up for me (you too mo, adrian, speedie). Now my question is just, where am i to find a four scale system to balance my car on. :-(

BTW: Are you guys keeping offie hours today (new years eve) in tampa PW?

LeadFoot

Thank you everyone for the replies:

Note: I am using the standard chassis with the carpet towers. I run foam on carpet in Stock and 19T. One track is 150' x 75' and the other is about 95' x 60'. Both using Ozite II

Jon Kerr: I am using PW's Snowbirds Setup. The batteries are currently Middle-Middle. I will try middle-inside. For electronics I have nothing special. Right now the car has a Monster Stock Motor, Novak Cyclone C2, Novak XXL FM and Futaba 9404 Servo. I am running foams on carpet.

Speedie: I do have a set of 4 scales. My brother has a XXX-S and he spent literally 3-hours one evening trying to balance it out and finally gave up because the scale are so sensitive and a small 1/4 turn moved 20g around the scales. I have not tried the scales on the Mi2 but I will give it a go

Mo: I will definately have to check the spring length out. That is one thing I did not think of checking. I know a lot of you guys are using Tamiya shocks. I am using the Schumacher Shocks with the Schumacher Yellow Springs in the rear and XRay Dark Blue Springs in the front with 1/4 inch plastic spacer to compensate for the short spring. I have cut the shaft by 2mm and the cup by 2mm as is recommended for the short towers and I have the length of the shocks set to 63mm front and Rear. I am using the Kit sway bars as well.

IslandBwoy: LOL! No problem -- I had some time off this week so I spent most of my time on the car or at the track. I am finally at the point where I am learning the car and no longer bouncing off the walls. At the moment, when I make the A-Main I am usually assured last place -- so I am finally starting to work on setup to get better -- Keep asking questions you will learn a lot

CAR

One trick you can do to check side to side balance if you have the carpet towers is start out with a level table. Then get a .080 rod about 6 " longer then the car. Then side it under the shock tower so the rod is located in the notch in the towers.Now hang the car
support both ends then mearsure side to side from the chassis to the table.

Speedie

I just got myself some new scales from a fellow BMI teamate for only 80$ shipped. They are small and work great. He is Underdahill and he has a listing in the for sale section.

To a full scale road racer his set of scales is the most important setup tool they can own. To start off with I set my ride height and do the balancing right to left and front to rear as these changes have to be done by moving or adding weight. They cant be adjusted by preload collars. Then set ride height again and put back on the scales. My car is always way off when I reset it at least usually 50g to 75g. To set the crossweight I adjust all 4 collars equally. If its off 50g on the LF the RR will also be off the same 50g since the car is balanced. I then adjust the collars 1/4 turn at a time down on the light corners and up on the heavy corners. Once its close I make smaller adjustments until its right. By doing it this way when its set the ride height is very close to where it started. Sometimes Ill do this 2 or 3 times until both ride height and crossweight are perfect.

ottoman

iTrader: (13)

So who is going to be at the Novak Race next weekend? I know Nick Stampfel, Jim Newberg, Speedie (TerrySchmidt) and PW will be there... anyone else running a MI2?

t4driver88

iTrader: (1)

ill be there and runnin the mi2 i dont know about shawn