Xray T1
#1456
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Arnoud The Silver spring is in fact the white (soft spring). The first kits all came with silver springs. Furthermore the new spring set will be available soon (no exact date yet), since they wanted to fine tune the differences between the various springs in order to get the best springset available.
EAMotorsports RCFIEND....Mine done the same thing. The reason its binding is the bearing in the LR bulkhead that goes into that plastic cup (not motor side) to hold the layshaft mount isnt seated all the way into the cup. I had to but a perfect size nut driver (on the race of the bearing) and tap it in. It should sit all the way in the plastic cup.
#1457
Tech Apprentice
Springs
I'm not sure whether there will be a number rating, but I think there will be a list available. That's something Mario H. is trying to get for us, I am sure.
#1458
Team EAM
iTrader: (79)
RCFiend...The box stock setup worked good enough for me to win the ROAR Region 3 on-road championships in stock class. The track was big though...150x80 med traction asphalt. The only changes I made was running 10 degrees front caster with the eccentric from upper mounts with 4 degrees reactive caster. Reason being there was a very big high speed sweeper on the track and with the 10 degrees caster I was really carring speed there. Well at the other end of that straight 150ft later there was a 180 turn. To make the car really turn in there with all the caster I put the 4 degree reactive caster in it. Other than that one mod it was run box stock. This was also my first time out with the car.
If the track you are going to race on is Tight or high traction or both you may want to consider the C-hub conversion...Thats what it was designed for.
eric a
If the track you are going to race on is Tight or high traction or both you may want to consider the C-hub conversion...Thats what it was designed for.
eric a
#1459
I'll have my EVO2 this week. I'll also have the c-hub conversion as well. I sold my first T1 and loved it. If the EVO2 is half as good with the c-hub set-up, I'll be in heaven!!!! I have all the other option parts already and will build it with them. Man on carpet with foams, it should be dialed!!!!!
#1460
Tech Apprentice
Looking forward to read your experiences with the EVO2. Half as good, you will be impressed with the more than double so!!!!
#1461
Durability
Had a bad experance this weekend at the race. Course worker tried to jump over two of us when we tangled. Landed on my X-Ray Shorted the saddle lacks together and burnt the motor, and chunked the tire On the positive side, I stripped the entire car yesterday and found nothing broke!! This is one durable car to take a hit like that.
#1462
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
RCFiend...The box stock setup worked good enough for me to win the ROAR Region 3 on-road championships in stock class. The track was big though...150x80 med traction asphalt. The only changes I made was running 10 degrees front caster with the eccentric from upper mounts with 4 degrees reactive caster. Reason being there was a very big high speed sweeper on the track and with the 10 degrees caster I was really carring speed there. Well at the other end of that straight 150ft later there was a 180 turn. To make the car really turn in there with all the caster I put the 4 degree reactive caster in it. Other than that one mod it was run box stock. This was also my first time out with the car.
If the track you are going to race on is Tight or high traction or both you may want to consider the C-hub conversion...Thats what it was designed for.
eric a
RCFiend...The box stock setup worked good enough for me to win the ROAR Region 3 on-road championships in stock class. The track was big though...150x80 med traction asphalt. The only changes I made was running 10 degrees front caster with the eccentric from upper mounts with 4 degrees reactive caster. Reason being there was a very big high speed sweeper on the track and with the 10 degrees caster I was really carring speed there. Well at the other end of that straight 150ft later there was a 180 turn. To make the car really turn in there with all the caster I put the 4 degree reactive caster in it. Other than that one mod it was run box stock. This was also my first time out with the car.
If the track you are going to race on is Tight or high traction or both you may want to consider the C-hub conversion...Thats what it was designed for.
eric a
#1463
Tech Apprentice
Putting the Battery to the right side of the car
I just got a T1 Evo 2. Did anyone here tried putting the battery to the right side of the car?? I just discovered that though the chassis got the holes for the batt, you still cannot get a 6X1 batt config at the right side of the car due to the placement of the oneway diff and the oneway pulley. Can anyone help me with this? Thanx for the info.
#1464
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Originally Posted By EAMotorsports RCFiend...The box stock setup worked good enough for me to win the ROAR Region 3 on-road championships in stock class. The track was big though...150x80 med traction asphalt. The only changes I made was running 10 degrees front caster with the eccentric from upper mounts with 4 degrees reactive caster. Reason being there was a very big high speed sweeper on the track and with the 10 degrees caster I was really carring speed there. Well at the other end of that straight 150ft later there was a 180 turn. To make the car really turn in there with all the caster I put the 4 degree reactive caster in it. Other than that one mod it was run box stock. This was also my first time out with the car.
Couple of questions, where do you make the changes for the reactive caster and how does this effect the handling of the car.
Next, where do you guys mount the shocks on the rear shock tower and what length are your shocks? I have to use almost all of the pre-load to take up the slack in the spring. Are the springs to short for the new EVO2 springs (silver).
#1465
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Active Caster- I'm not positive on this, but I think it decreases caster as the front end compresses (corner entry) and increases caster as the front end lifts (corner exit), which should give more steering both entering and exiting. You need the accentric hingepin mounts for the front upper control arms. All you do is set the rear mount higher than the front mount, giving the hingepin an angle.
Rear Shocks- In my Stock Rubber car, I think they're in outer hole on both the tower and the arm. In my Mod Foam car, they're in either the middle or inner hole on the tower, and outer hole on the arm. I'm not sure why it'd be so hard for you to get the rearend up in the air. Are you sure you've got the rear springs on the rear, and front springs on the front? The rears are quite a bit taller.
Rear Shocks- In my Stock Rubber car, I think they're in outer hole on both the tower and the arm. In my Mod Foam car, they're in either the middle or inner hole on the tower, and outer hole on the arm. I'm not sure why it'd be so hard for you to get the rearend up in the air. Are you sure you've got the rear springs on the rear, and front springs on the front? The rears are quite a bit taller.
#1466
JeffC: EVO2 uses equal lenght springs. I have talked to Buster about this as I am having a problem installing the C-Hub rear on mine with foams. Kit was designed for rubber tires. However, the front kit on the T1 works greart! My buds wish it did not.
#1467
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Does the c-hub suspension seem more suited to rubber or foam tires? This winter I'll probably be running mostly foam, both Stock and Mod. I'm just not sure yet if I want to spend the money for the conversion. It's a pretty large carpet track, right now very flowing with one technical chicane, but will probably become a very technical track by October.
#1468
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Originally Posted By JeffC Active Caster- I'm not positive on this, but I think it decreases caster as the front end compresses (corner entry) and increases caster as the front end lifts (corner exit), which should give more steering both entering and exiting. You need the accentric hingepin mounts for the front upper control arms. All you do is set the rear mount higher than the front mount, giving the hingepin an angle.
As far as the shock springs RC Nitro is correct the EVO2 incorporates new shocks, the shock bodies, shafts, and springs are now equal lengths. I am using the kit setup for the shock placcement on the shock tower (#7) and I use the middle hole on the rear arm.
Also what it is the deal with the X-RAY VIP membership enrollment. I signed up Weds. of last week and I still don't have access to the VIP Room
#1469
JeffC:
C-Hub works great on the carpet. Our track has 4 180's and it really hooks up well here. I got an extra 10 degrees of steering. Was designed for both. Give Buster a call tomorrow at Riders. He was very good with me on this.
C-Hub works great on the carpet. Our track has 4 180's and it really hooks up well here. I got an extra 10 degrees of steering. Was designed for both. Give Buster a call tomorrow at Riders. He was very good with me on this.
#1470
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
So far with foam i have found that you need to use the lower row of holes in the rear shock tower, otherwise you cannot get enough droop and ride height. The tower looks nice although the only available holes for low foams are the lower row. I think with rubbers the centre row and lower row are useful, and i read somewhere that the top holes are only for use with the old serpent lenght shocks.
Ride height for foams with the C-hub should not be a problem, i have a couple of friends running it, and they did not say anything bad about it with low foams.
Ride height for foams with the C-hub should not be a problem, i have a couple of friends running it, and they did not say anything bad about it with low foams.