Rob Mincey

Jim - when people refer to the "split chassis," they're referring to the BMI chassis that has the left side batteries moved forward either 2 or 3 battery slots worth and the right side batteries in the stock, rear position.

B
B
B B
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B

Like this.

Rob

NismoSkyline17

Here's the split chassis.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting back into R/C, and have decided to start with the XRay T1FK. I tried to find one locally, but nobody carries it. Where's the best place (reputation and price) to buy one online?

Also, what parts should I get with my initial order, especially those that are most prone to breakage. I'm going to be racing on carpet. As I understand it, the kit will come with a ballpark setup for carpet, but is there anything else I should get to better prepare myself? I want to concentrate on being a better driver and not getting too caught up with my gear, but I need a good place to start at the very least.

JimMcClure

Thanks for the answer on the chassis. I just got a FK and got the xrc chassis. It has one spot on the left to move the batteries forward one hole. I guess the bmi has tons more steering. Hopefully this weekend I can get a few packs on the new car.

Rob Mincey

Ack... the diagram didn't come out like I thought it would. Must be an issue with the forum software.

Thanks Nismo for the pic.

Rob

Rob Mincey

Try SpeedtechRC. www.speedtechrc.com Steve's a great guy to deal with and the service is awesome. I also like Ashford Hobby (ashfordhobby.com) and Stormer Hobbies (stormerhobbies.com.)

As for extras, grab the ackerman extension kit (about $9) and some springs. I've yet to break a part, though I have bent 2 front driveshafts - the ones on the FK are smaller for less weight, but they don't take the abuse as well as the ones from the Evo2 Freedom of Choice. I'm not sure if the Evo2 driveshafts will fit the FK - will have to ask someone here.

According to Josh Cyrul, his Carpet Nats setup is a good starting point for high bite carpet. You can find it at www.cefx.net in the setup section.

Rob

greencactus3

i have a t1r i bought used, and comparing it to my friend's evo2, i noticed my t1r doesnt have the "strut" bar between the rear bulkheads. does the t1r not come with this? and what does this "strut" exactly do?

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

That si called the Rear Alum roll center bridge, and it allows you a roll center position that is in line with the lower hingepins when using the standard long arm suspension....

It simply provides an additiona tuning option....much like thenew Factory kit shock towers have mounting positions that allow you to place your roll center link outside the bulkheads to keep the upper pivot poitn in line with the lower hingepins

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Actually he is talking about something else I believe. That bar would only add a little strength to the bulkhead. I took one off of my parts car and put it on my T1R when I first got it.

TimXLB

iTrader: (14)

Jim McClure:

Hi,

Both the Split chassis and the 350 chassis add more steering to the Xray. mostly the split chassis works great in mod and the 350 chassis works great all around. we also make a 160 chassis that works great in stock and 19t and allows more room for your electronics.
we run both the 350 chassis in stock, 19 turn and mod and the 160 chassis in stock and 19 turn. there was a 160 chassis in the stock A main at Cleveland this year. the XRC chassis has the cells moved ahead about .250 and is somewhat flexier than the B.M.I. chassis.

Thanks

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Rob,

Yes the Evo 2 driveshafts will fit. When I had the car I bent one of mine slightly after a couple weeks, but I kept running it. After another few weeks, it was straight again! I guess that spring steel stuff does work, just takes its time

sundog1

How does the ackerman extension kit help?

Speedo

I'm building my FK right now. It's going alright, with the biggest problems so far being that the suspension and steering is tight, the syringe that the diff lube comes in is possibly the worste syringe on the face of the planet, and:

how do you guys get the shock ends on?

I've been gripping the top of the threads with the cutting part of some pliers, but it just spins the shaft, and I've taken a good deal of material off the shaft from it rubbing against the blade.

I drilled the ends out, but that didn't help any. I also used some silicone on the threads to try and smooth it out, but no luck.

What am I missing here? I swear if I try any harder the blades I am gripping the shaft with will cut it in half.

Josh

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Use a button head screw from the kit and pre thread the shock ends with it. I usually thread them in about 3 or 4 times. Then I use a big set of pliers. If you have one of those plastic jar opener pads wrap the shaft around that then use some pliers. If you don't have that I usually use some paper backing like what trinity brushes come in wrap that around the shaft.

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Takes off the quick response in steering, I think. usually use in carpet tracks.