Rick Draper

Right at racing today i ran the C hub front suspension and the ball rear suspension and the back would just not grip, it just seemed to skim over the track no matter what i did. I race indoor on carpet. I had yellow springs all round and 30 wt oil in the shocks can anyone throw any ideas my way as to what to change? Thanks Rick

GregH

What else have you done?? Currently I'm running 50wt 2 holes open front and back with red spring ft. and violets in the rear. without swaybars. I also tried the front oneway. Played with the camber links and ani-dive in the rear. I've been fighting to get more steering and all along the rear has been tight. (as in mega bite) I started to get the rear loose and finally got steering. Now all the rear bearings are bad (blue shields) so I'll be replacing them this week.

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

i have had alot of problems with the handling of my xray.

one of the main culprits seems to be the shocks. they leak out the top. i have tried filling them up mulitple times and even changing the bladder, nothing seems to work. i have the alum shock bodies btw.

also the car flexes, really badly. i tried installing the original upper deck (from the first xray) over the evo 2 flexable deck, since i could not just use the stiff upper deck (due to the lack of a notch for the steering bellcrank). however, as a result the belt rubs along the upperdeck.

has anyone else had these problems?

GregH

Has anyone had trouble with the blue seal bearings?? I've had my car for less then 2 months and had to replace all the bearings. There so gritty that they won't clean up. Should a person have to tear apart the whole car and clean the bearings every week to keep them in good shape?? I had to replace the front axle bearings (green seals) in my T1 shortly after I got it as well. After that I never had problems with over a year on the front bearings and they were still smooth.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

I race on a track that is not blown off and one that is. I do clean my bearings after each race day to prepare for the next. The blue 'shields' are great but do let tiny bits of debris past them. Heck..... I had a shield spin off the bearing so it was resting on the outdrive.

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

i race on carpet, and i have actually had the sheilds come off the blue bearings. i have never had bearings that do this, it is the oddest hing...

Corse-R

The leaking on your shocks can be culprit for the aluminium bodies, return to the plastic and see if continues to leak.

Regarding the flex on your car is natural and is developed with some flex in mind. If you want a car who don't flex I suggest another car with a monolitic chassis like a TC3, XXX-S or a MR-TC. Mine (Evo2) worked flawlessy with some chassis flex. Makes the car more docile and predictable.

Have you tried to file a little those notch rather than putting a second upper deck?

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

the reason i actually got the alumuinm bodies is because the plastic ones tended to strip out. is there any sealant or anything i could put on them possibly?

and yes i realize that the car is going ot have some flex, although i dont see why they designed it in there. wouldnt you prefer to tune your car with your shocks and suspenion, instead of having to tune the chassis? i just dont get the point of having a flexing chassis, with all of the suspenion changes you can make...

GregH

stormperson, I'd have to agree... I'd rather have the chassis stiff and work on the suspension. My original T1 was very stiff all stock. I may get the T1 chassis and upper deck since I run saddle packs anyway. Plus the car is light enough to not worry about the difference in weight.

mike5009

iTrader: (2)

A FLEXABLE CHASSIS IS JUST ANOTHER TUNING OPTION AS THE OTHER GUY SAID JUST FILE OUT A NOTCH ON THE SOLID TOP PLATE AND INSTALL THIER WONT BE ANY FLEX AT ALL. BUT FOR CARPET RACING YOU WANT A LIITLE GIVE IN THE CHASSIS CAUSE IT MAKES THE CAR A LITTLE MORE PREDICTABLE WHILE CORNERING MAINLY FROM THE CENTER OUT

dtm

On the old upper deck, the hole is offset and the plastic insert is concentric. On the Evo 2 upper deck the slotted hole is central and the plastic insert is offset. To run the old upper deck on the Evo 2 you need the old concentric plastic insert, otherwise the steering post will be bent.

GregH

thats why they list the stiff upper deck for the evo2

RC Nitro

HobbytownRacer: Thanks for the info on the shocks you gave me. Got some longer 3mm screws and 3mm nuts so I can use the ultra tune rear with my pillow ball setup.

GregH

Mike does the upper deck you have for me have the plastic piece

GregH

nitro, did you get them to work?