pcar951

iTrader: (23)

+1

FLAT OUT

Just put a drop of light quality oil on each bearing and it will work its way in, and always rebuild the new diff as it will only have a tiny amount if any grease in it. When I took my new diff apart I couldn't see any grease at all !!

Skiddins

Let some oil soak through as others have mentioned.

I don't rebuild the diff from new, just adjust it carefully and run it.
However, once it needs a rebuild I will then avoid using Xray diff lube as it's too thin, it's one step away from water. I use Asociated Diff Lube on my dry car diff's and Schumacher diff lube on my wet car diff's.

Skiddins

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

are you still suffering with grip roll ???

try thicker oil and a higher roll centre

let me know how you get on

ChevyRacing09

Hi I just ordered a Xray T3 Rubber Spec and was wondering what pinion gear I should get. I will be using a Tekin RS ESC with the 13.5 redline motor. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

Burney

gearing depends on allot of factors but roughly with the 13.5 they seem to be from 5 to 6.5 depending on track size, amount of timing, boost etc etc

so the pinions are from about 25 to 31t

Skiddins

I haven't run since, yet.

Will be racing on the same high grip tyres on the 3rd Jan

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for the bearing advice guys. I am ordering a new kit any day as my tired old 008 is on its last legs.

Talking about shock building, I never use a pump of any kind but i do go through a bit of extra oil the way i build. I open the shocks and turn them upside down to let all the old oil drain out. Some ppl go to all sorts of lengths to clean and dismantle the shocks but i think this is a waste of time unless something is binding, broken or you have an extreme mess inside the shock and its very dirty.

I will fill the shock with new oil and with the shock open, pump it a few times to get the oil frothing with any bubbles that are there. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and I then empty the shock almost all the way. This usually gets most of the bubbles out and leaves a small amount of oil in the shock which i then refill. i then let them sit for a good half hour or so to let any remaining bubbles rise. I then test the shock by gently pushing the shaft up and down. If there are still more bubbles then i will gently tip out the top section of oil and top up again.

Once this has settled i then pop the caps on all the shocks and tighten them up about half way. I then push the shock shaft all the way up making sure not to let it fall back and suck in air. A little oil will spill out the vent cap on the side and while holding the shock shaft all the way up, tighten up the shock fully and in the process some more oil will spill out. This is messy and probably the most annoying part of my build but a small rag about an inch wide catches the mess a lot. I find with this oil leaking out the top any small bubbles that are left over go with it.

I then undo the bottom cap to bleed that way. I have found that if you unscrew the bottom cap and then push the cap and the bottom o ring back to the shock body so it is nearly ready to put back on that no air bleeds back into the shock. I then pump however many pumps to get the right rebound(normally 50%) and then tighten back up and away you go.

The only time i need to refill is if too much oil leaks when putting the cap on but you get the hang of how loose to have the cap and how much oil to have in the shock. After a few builds you'll get the hang of this and it becomes easy i think. I get 2 or 3 meets before i need to redo my shocks and have been doing it this way all year with no hassles.

jackdaniels

Hi peeps.

I've sold my cyclone and have a T3 now:-)

does anyone have some set-up advice for the car on a slippy wooden floor, small tight track thanks?

also what pinions should I get to try out for it. I'm running a Tekin Rs Pro with a ballistic 13.5 turn motor.

Cheers

jackdaniels

anyone

trerc

iTrader: (89)

Here's some set up sheets for the T3

http://forum.teamxray.com/xsheets.php

bobseagull

Just built t3, putting in elec , manual on speedy says hold set button 3 sec blue lite will flash to start set up , my blue lite stays solid and speedy will not set up all the other mode lites seem to be working , everthing new ,hacker 17.5 motor, radio new , sxxx tc spec new,can anyone help

Nuno Gancho

iTrader: (1)

Try to do the set up if the light was flashing, some speedos had problem with the light.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

So I've raced a few times with my T3 now. I feel guilty. It's so easy to drive and so fast I feel like I'm cheating. Glad I finally went with an Xray but feel like a dumbass for waiting so long to do it.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

+1