Thanx Tre. ;)

A slipper spool is used in place of the front diff for more steering on rubber tire setups. Its less abusive to the front driveline components than a solid spool, and now even cheaper to assemble/use with the Tc5 pads.

Here is my Brushless setup

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...1/IMG_7617.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...1/IMG_7618.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...1/IMG_7619.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...1/IMG_7620.jpg

So can I just remove the ball bearings and add the slipper pads?

Looks good BJ... you race carpet or asphalt? Spring choice suggest carpet...

I gave everything a thorough cleaning, and removed both diff rings and the diff balls. You HAVE to use the regular steel outdrives. The lightweight steel outdrives have material removed where the pads would seat, and the plastic outdrives wont handle the abuse. I seriously doubt if you could make more than a few turns with a plastic slipper spool and aluminum CVD bones.

A front steel diff/spool is optimal anyways. Its more durable, and adds weight over the front for more steering.

Thanks! Yup carpet!

What low profile servo is that?I like the way you fitted a GTB in there without stacking the receiver.The work you have done there is jaw-dropping.I like what I am seeing...It was worth the wait:tire:

futaba s9551

Does anyone still have or make an after market woven graphite chassis still?

http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_OnRoad_Products.html
http://www.teamirsrc.com/tc3.html

Thanks for the info on the slipper pads, definitely gonna give that a try.

How far do you tighten the diff screw? Or maybe a better question is, how far do you back off the screw from full lock?

No problem. ;)

I tightened the screw till the gear wouldnt slip with reasonable force. It only needs to be tight enough to resist 'diffing' as the car corners, to simulate a spool. Its not used for traction control (like a slipper clutch). I can imagine a lot of slippage would cause too much heat and destroy either the pads, the plastic gear, or both.

The idea is to let the spool slip on impact, like if you clip a board or hit something... so the shock to the driveline doesnt break or bend front end parts. Im sure there will be some trial and error, but start on the tight side, and work your way back.

The Diggty Designs chassis set looks awsome.But I can't imagine the open gear concept lasting very long where we race outside.The gears would lock up sooner or later.

We run on asphalt here too. I don't like the open diffs either. The IRS is $180. Thats too much for a vintage.


STILL LOOKING............:tire:

All of the woven chassis I can think of were designed during foam tire hay day and are thick as bricks and not designed to flex or be optimal for low traction rubber tire racing we are doing today. IMO you are better off with the tub, especially on asphalt not to mention I can throw my tubby down outside and not really worry about scratching up the plastic tub chassis. Tubbys are just fun. :nod:

Another company that makes a carbon fiber chassis for the TC3 is Xtreme Racing. Here is their TC3 product page (http://www.xtremercracing.com/Page.c...D=2995&Search=)

Obviously an carbon fiber conversion chassis won't be cheap, but I was very happy with the quality of the oval conversion kit that I bought.