carbon
 

I have a vintage BMI tc3 chassis from the day and some minor set up changes and it works great on rubber on asphalt I just wish the motor mount worked alittle better with a brushless motor and I just havent got around to machining one up

what would be a good pinion on a 13 turn mod motor on stock spur for TC3?

I will be running lipo on this motor if that makes a difference, I would like to be able to run long periods of time without blowing the motor in like 2 batteries

If the mod motor is a brushed motor and youre running 48 pitch gears, then the general rule is 10 teeth over the wind. So in your case, a 23 pinion would be a safe place to start with the stock 72 spur.

Axis Wheels and V-Rage Tires
 

Does anyone know how I can acquire some of the original TC3 Axis wheels (and maybe tires)? I'm trying for that box-art look :)

Cheers
Daniel

Just hunt around for them in HobbyTown USA stores. The original tires were Proline VRage. As a matter of fact im pretty sure my LHS has them in stock. lol

I updated the slipper spool info at the bottom of post #11383. Apparently my first set of spool pads had a control issue. :confused:

Feedback on the car with the slipper spool after Saturday. Ive been using a front diff until now.

Slipper spool is the p00p! That combined with a caster and F/R spring change dropped my lap times by a consistent half a second. I went from 15.5-15.8's to fairly consistent 15 flat-15.4's and even ripped a 14.9 fast lap. :blush:

Through in my GTB with 10.5 in my TC3 today, and was playing around on the street. Man, what a rocket! This is my first brushless set up. What an upgrade from the Novak Cyclone and 27t motor! The run time was rediculous with the brushless! I was getting bored out there! Hahaha. Now I need to find a 4.5 brushless and a 7cell NiMH and then let the games begin!

Spend the money on some lipos. Don't waste anymore time with a NiMh.

What springs and oil's are you using? and what caster blocks?:tire::tire:

Carpet or hard asphalt?

Fairly fresh blacktop asphalt. The setup is different because of the modifications i have made to the car, but it works DAMN well considering its age.

Front shocks:

#1 piston, 45wt Losi oil, C- 2.4 XRay springs.

Rear shocks:

#1 piston, 40wt Losi oil, D- 22.5 XRay springs

4 Degrees of caster with the .010 of kickup per the modded suspension mounts.

I also swapped out the Losi steering knuckles for the Tc4 steering knuckles for two reasons.

1) To reduce front track
2) Ackerman (steering links are parallel to the steering rack at center)

The car is stable as a rock through chicanes. I can be very liberal with the throttle and put the car pretty much where i want it. But you can tell by my spring choice i am in search of more steering. The 2.4 springs rate is close to 16lbs, yet arent progressive and handle much better than the XRay yellows i had on there of lesser tension. Each trip to the track it gets better and better.

I have v2 of the rear tower almost complete. It will have holes for inner camber links to get rid of the 'wings'. I also have the plans done up for one piece vertical ballstud mounts (need material to complete). Both have the inner ballstud location moved inward .020. Rear body mounts are almost half an inch further out each and flipped to the same side as the shock to increase the feel/effect of the rear spoiler at speed.

I have to say, the spool was a real eye opener. The only spool negative is excessive brake will push you out of your line. I could no longer use my brake progressively into the corner or up to the apex. I had to brake coming in, and throttle through.

The car tracks very well, has plenty of rear traction (this car does NOT turn by overdriving into a corner and losing rear bite), and with the spool its very stable on power wherever you point it. It turned as well as a Photon i drove, but felt more direct and had more feedback.

So far the only drawback with LiPo and brushless tech is the shaft flexes A LOT at high rpm. It flexes so much it hits my antenna tube. :blush: I have tried both a Tc4 shaft and Tc4 cups, and a trusty Niftech Titanium shaft i have compared to the stock carbon Tc3 shaft. All of them do it. I even took both sets of drive cups (Tc3/4) and turned them down on a lathe and reamed the centers to be sure there wasnt a balance issue with the cups. This is the only reason i am sticking with 17.5.

On power steering coming out of the turn?

Off power going in?

Looks like a good setup and worth trying my TC3 in VTA trim.

Yep, you got it right. Although off power isnt always off. Its more like 'less power'. :ha: Im sure body aerodynamics would play a big role in your setup. Keep that in mind. ;)

Our local track started a 'Muscle Car' class, with intent of being similar to VTA. Oddly enough, the Tc3 is the most popular chassis. :smile: Ill be getting another TC chassis soon, and my Tc3 will be 'retired' to the Muscle Car class. I cant wait to get a sweet body on top of this thing! :nod:

I have a few completed items for the car.

In previous pix of my car you may have noticed different shock towers. Both the front and rear in those pix are v1's. The front v2 tower is finalized in overall shape, with subtle changes in geometry over v1. This works well with the modded front arms in the background of the pic below. Front v3 is yet to be completed.

Front v2

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/100_1619.jpg

Rear v2

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/100_1615.jpg

Rear v3

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb198/dnewms/v32.jpg

v3 rough with most construction lines removed

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb198/dnewms/v31.jpg

v3 compared to v1

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb198/dnewms/v33.jpg

I havent used v3 yet. Im waiting on more CFRP to finish the front and try them both.

I also have some vertical ballstud mounts drawn up to go with v2 towers. They offer a longer link placement, closer link locations, and center the link over the diff centerline. More on that later...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Years ago i used to lower my servo into either a Tc3 or Tc4 chassis (same for my B3/T3 and battery slots in those chassis). It caught on and became a fairly popular mod. Most did it to lower the CG of the car. I did it for that AND to correct the poor geometry of the steering servo to steering rack link.

With the past few chassis i have modded, i have chosen to avoid lowering the servo to preserve its structural integrity in hopes of consistent torsional flex.

The following mod to the standard servo arm maintains equal left to right throw on the transmitter (with the arm one tooth off center per instructions), and mimics the servo being lower in the chassis for this purpose. No more 94%-62% EPA settings for lock to lock steering. This is important for steering balance and consistent feel left to right.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/100_1611.jpg

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here are a few unassembled pics of my Tc4 diff with Tc5 slipper spool pads for a slipper spool as mentioned in post# 11383.

The Tc5 pads need to be checked/modified for thickness, and each pad needs to be .84mm thick to work properly. There are no other modifications needed for this to work. The pad indentations are from the slipper spool being properly adjusted.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/100_1620.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/100_1622.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/100_1628.jpg

:sneaky:

Got some cool TC3 hop ups on clearance at Speedtech! All at 60-70% off regular... :D