Re: set-up
 

Sounds like your tires are overheating. Its probably because of your 3* camber, youre riding on a very small part of the tire. Back it down to 1 in the front and 1-1.5 in the rear, this will be easy to drive.

Also, what are your toe settings? Too much toe could cause the same condition.

thanks for the advice...not sure on the toe settings...how do I check that...for measurement devices all I have is a ride hight gauge and a camber gauge.
When I change the camber should I change where my shocks are mounted,,,currently in the front top I have them in the middle hole and the outer hole on the bottom..the back shocks are outer hole mounted..silver springs in the front, and gold in the rear...also, would tightning or loosening the one of the diffs help..

If someone has a few minutes..could someone give me a breakdown on what tuning the different areas of the car does, or a link to a site that does..it would be much appreciated

Hog...

First shock mounting positions have nothing to do with camber. Your front camber is controlled by the turn buck that goes fromt he shock tower to the top of your carrier.

Also what tires are you running?



Do you have a owners manual also?

I can give you more answers but need to know a couple things.


Also... switch your springs gold in the front silver in the back

I know that the shock location has nothing to do with camber..but was wondering what moving the shock position does..guess I didnt phrase it correctly..and I had the springs backwards...and i was running sorex 36r's with a medium insert

here is the info I am looing for....
What does more/less camber do?
What do the different shock location do to the cars handeling?
What does loosening/tightning the diffs do?
What does more or less toe in do?
What will running a harder or softer tire do?

HeY!!!


Loosening or tightening the diffs will determine how you car will act on power thru the turns. harder tire compounds will allow your car to enter the turn w/ higher roll speed. more or less toe in, and camber will determine how well you will enter the turn, and how agressive you want to be on throttle in and outa turns. it will also increase tire wear.

thanks...
Im taking some notes, so when I practice or race I can make adjustments and not have to annoy everyone around me with dumb questions...
you gave me a lot of info but it was a little condensed...but if you could break it down a little more for me....Im slow:D I need to know what changing each thing will do to the cars handeling...so I can make a cheat sheet to keep in my box:D

TC3 WINS EUROS.

This weekend in Sweden Jonas Kaerup won the European Touring Car Championships running his TC3.

Jonas won 2 of the 3 finals. There were 2 of the 5 year old TC3s in the A final.

This is the third year in succession that the TC3 has won the European Championship.

TC3. 5 years old. Still the car to beat.

As The Rock says...Turn that sumbitch sideways, shine it up real nice and stick it strait up...the side of your car for front toe-in (turn the tx/car on so its centered)

As for the rear...The blocks say it

First number on the block is toe-in, second is kickup

Correct, you adjust the rear toe by changing the rear suspension arm mounts, & you can tell which one sets a certain amount of toe by the numbers on it. So if you have one that says "R3+2", then it means its set for 3 degrees of toe-in & 2 degrees of anti-squat(we'll go more into anti-squat later). And if you want to free up the rear end(like whn your car doesn't want to turn, but you seem to have enought traction all-around), then try using less toe, so I'd try the "R2+2" mount(which, incidentally is the one I use all the time) & see if the car will turn better(as long as it doesn't end up feeling loose on you). Now, about your situation, hogdaddy77, I'm also curious about some of the conditions you're running in, like what kind of surface it is, how smooth(or abrasive) it is, how hot it gets(& if it gets hotter as the race day goes on), how many runs you've put on that set of tires, etc. , if you could tell us some more, I think we might have an easier time giving you some more specific advice on setting up your car. I suspect that you may just need to make some subtle changes throughout the day, but I wanna be sure....:cool:

Thanks...I was running at speedworld (perminant track) not to abrasive, but not slick... the temp changed a bit...got hotter...and my tires are sorex 36r with about 30 minutes runtime on the track only...I didnt change much on my car as the day went on..just the camber after I had to replace a broken ball cup(what a crappy piece to have to loose track time for!). After I got back from the track I noticed my shocks were leaking a little..so perhaps that was part of my problem..guess Ill need to rebuild them..again!
Thanks again for the help

No prob, Oh, & about changing the shock mounting locations, what that does is alter the amount of leverage the suspension arm has on the shock, so if the shock is sitting more straight up & down (like when mounted on the outside holes on the shock tower, especially if you use a rear tower up front), then the arm will have less leverage & it'll seem like you have more spring/damping action(like a harder spring or thicker oil), & if they sit more at an angle, then the arm will have more leverage & it'll act like having a slightly softer spring or thinner shock oil(which will mean more grip on that end of the car). But keep in mind that this is a minor adjustment, so you may not easily notice it all the time(but can be a difference maker when your setup is REALLY close to perfect & you just need that one last thing to get it dialed). Also, since you are dealing with heat over the course of a day, I'd say that that is having an effect on how your car is handling, so I would reccomend you make adjustments throughout the day(& I'd also reccomend you try switching to using the same spring front & rear, or at least switch the golds to the front & the silvers to the rear, after you put on the R2+2 arm mount, you'll already have more steering, so you may need to stay with a stiffer front spring. And about the sudden change in steering as you let off throttle, I'd also suggest you spend some practice time working on rolling through corners smoother, & try to make sure you never COMPLETELY let off throttle, always try to use some(that should help keep the car stable, as FWD & 4WD vehicles have a tendency to straighten themselves out as you apply throttle), & as JoshR85 mentioned, it also might help to play with the diff tightness a little, too....:cool:

thanks for the help...I think I have more knowledge now then before..so,,,hopefully this will help me run better...along with more track time...but thats up to the wife:D

under steer?
 

how do i increase steering?

there is a "s" section at my local track, i can't hit the faster line of the section, i need to realy follow the "s" which makes me slow in this section.

please help :cry:

Go to your LHS and ask them to order you a copy of the XXXMain touring car setup book. It goes through each tuning option on a touring car, and describes what changes do what. Its a great reference.

Finally got some pics of my son's championship winning TC3s.

One car has normal steering. The other has steering levers. The levers are mounted under the front diff case, using lengthened diff case screws,making it easier, lighter and less complicated.

Other than that both cars are identical.

Check out the pics.