Ok, I guess my first question wasnt all that clear (and my sincerext apologies for that). I am curious how exactly you secure the motor to the chassis. I dont know if the motor screws go on the end of the motor with the pinion or go somewhere else.

Stock Motor Ratio
 

Anyone have the ratio to run with a monstor stock in the TC3. I am running a 72 tooth spur.

Need to know pinion and tire diameter. Also need to know the spring/brush setup for the tc3 with a monstor stock.

Thanks.

Trackdesigner-

Go to the AE Website and download the instruction manual....it shows the car perfectly and how it gets strapped into the car.

Don't you have a TC3? You said about 2 months ago that you did???

savio7: The gearing greatly varies depending on your driving style and track size. What are the approximate dimensions of the track and are you able to run a full race without crashing? For foams most people run from 60-57 mm, 60 being a good starting point and working until either performance drops off or there is no foam left.

As for brush spring combos for the monster. 99% of people agree that the red(+)/green(-) springs work very well. Recently ive been using Hurricane's gold brushes and have been very pleased with the results (www.teamhurricane.net). Other brushes that work well are Reedy 767, and trinity 4499 (or "99" brushes).

200 mm body on TC3 ?
 

I'm looking at doing a Porsche gts body on a TC3 chassis. Associated lists the chassis as 190 mm but the HPI Porsche is 200 mm. What would the consequences be?

I think actaully AE makes somethin that can make the elec TC3 200mm (actually I think thats the rally conversion kit correct me if Im wrong)

Yes, its the rally conversion kit that makes the electric tc3 200mm instead of the normal 190mm.

-etzkev

Does the losi tower have the same mounting points? And I dont think josh actually ran the losi tower, he just used it to re-enforce the stock one, or thats what I heard last, lol.

Here is a place in English:
http://precisionrc.com/cgi-bin/cart.pl?IT=SQR2-STC18

200 mm rally kit
 

Thanks all for the Replies...

Would the Rally converted TC3 still comply with ROAR specs? I saw a retail site that stated the HPI porsche was rated as class '1' (ROAR qualified) but this doen't address the Rally conversion option.

No, for ROAR-sanctioned racing, electric touring cars are limited to 190mm width, so the rally conversion would make a TC3 illegal under those rules(but if you want to try it & the tracks you may want to run on don't mind you using it, then feel free to try it)....:cool:

Yes, you're right. I was just at the ROAR site and stock touring requires a 4 door sedan. The porsche would be a 't-2' rig for a GT class which the local track doesn't run....
Maybe I'll set one up later for fun but for now will stay to the family car chassis...

mab_man20

Thanks for the reply. Track is 100x45. I can stay off the boards for 5 mins. What pinion should I use with a monstor stock?

Thanks.

Rayhuang: Try checking the two bearings in the middle of the diff. If they are the wider ones used in the steel outdrive set, they will keep the diff far enough apart to allow slippage, but still keep it all together, no matter how tight you make it. The bearings that ASC released to fit in the plastic outdrives are what you want to use, they are the same size (thickness) as the bushing used in the lightweight outdrive set from ASC, but thinner than the bearings used in the steel outdrive set. It sounds to me like you have the thicker bearings from the steel set (which is the same bearings used in all of the ASC/B2-4,T2-4, GT differentials) and it is not allowing your diff to tighten properly. Now i also understand ASC has stopped production of this bearing for the lightweight outdrives, if you cannot find them, you can get them from www.acerracing.com. If you happen to order the ceramic pro bearing kit, they (4 for both diffs) come with it! Otherwise you can order them separately, and get them in a matter of days for nominal cash flow. I ran into the same problem, considered using the bushings because they fit, but didnt have the heart to ruin such nice outdrives with the wear of bushings. Another possibility, but not a probability... if you are a racer that resurfaces your diff rings on 1000 grit sandpaper, then you can sand them too thin, and have the same problem. They are usually only good for two resurfacings on each side, then the ring needs to be replaced. The ring will get so thin the bushings/bearings in the middle of the diff will be pinched between the outdrives, and the rings will not touch the balls in the ring gear enough to actuate as anything more than a slipper, or if tight enough, a spool. Hope this helps a little...
- Dave

Re: Re: Aluminum diff help
 

Thanks Bubbles. I gave up and put another IRS diff in back last night and it is fine now. ITs also much easier to set the lash on the IRS one. The dimensions on the HC ones seem much different than on the IRS or plastic ones. You have to shim them a lot or the body of the diff rubs the diff cases....hmmmmmm.

I put all the internals of the HC diff back into the plastic diffs and it built up perfectly.

Strange-but all better now-thanks!!!