Hinge Pins
 

Buds I believe are the best for the cost. The way I check for slightly bent pins is to take the pin that you think is bent and drop it thru the holes of a new arm. If it doesn't slide thru easily then you know the pin is bent.

gee-dub

I usually do not do that.. I have heard of people doing that, But then you go against trying to get droop. I use the droop as a tool for handling.. I usually will run 1.5 - 2.5 mm of front droop and anywhere fron 2-5 mm of rear droop depending on the track..

When i say those #'s i mean that is how high the car will go before the tires come up when picking the car up, if you measure with a ride height guage.. so if i run 4mm ride height in the front then when lifting the car it will be up to 6.5 mm or as low as 5.5 mm ...

I hope i did not confuse people..

Mike


QUOTE]Originally posted by gee-dub I

mike b - i've been told once the tweak is set on a car, to tighten up the droop to take up any slack of non-sprung travel. what is your take on this, and how do you set droop?

p.s. if this has been posted somewhere on the previous 267 pages, sorry for being repetitive, didn't go searching through all that! :) [/QUOTE]

Hinge pins...
 

Bubbles,

There are two ways to look at this.. If you go with the stn hinge pins they will bend alot easier then the new polished hinge pins associated has, These are very hard and take a good blow to bend plus they are ultra smooth.. This is the only thing i run now..
.
But sometimes when running a harder pin or one that do's not bend as easy you will break other things like arms etc.. so there is a trade off...

IF you have any hinge pin bent on the car it will usally not drive straight or be very hard to drive act tweaked or all of the above, That is usually the first thing i look for on my car when my car starts acting wierd...


Mike Blackstock

Mike,

On your Snowbirds setup posted on Associated's web page are you still running the F block in the rear?


Thanks

Yes The F-block in the rear....



Mike

Do you guys set your tweak on your TC3's? I have guys tell me they never do that they just set ride height and go. I have never even seen a tweak station at my track. Ive tried running the car both ways and I like it better when tweak is set. I use the old lift in the middle method and I always check my droop to make sure its even side to side.

I set the tweak mostly when i start the day then adjust from there from what the car do's on the racetrack or if i have a total rebuild then i will set it on there.. But one thing i do is if the car is perfect on the track i will put it on the board to see where it is then when i do the rebuild go to that same spot , not always dead center...

Mike

SWEET Thanks...

How much weight are you guys adding after having the chassis centre milled out to move the batteries inward. I had to add 1 ounce on the motor side to get the car to balance, is this about right or is it even necessary.

I only have to add 14 grams to balance L to R. one ounce isnt alot depends alot on electronics.

This is one that always confuses me on the TC3. When moving the camber links up to the higher locations you are lowering the roll center so the car rolls more in the corners correct? So by lowering the camber links you raise the roll center so the car rolls less in the corners?

:tire:

JSJ

If you raise the inner location (shock tower) you lower the roll center, if you raise the other location (hub) you raise the roll center.

Ok got that. So if you raise the hinge pin holders you?

:tire:

Read the information from the following link, your question will be solved.

http://www.team-orion.ch/faq/car-handling3.asp

You also raise the roll center. There has been talk of guys trying to mill off the mounts to lower it tho. As far as Ive heard it works well but I havent tried it myself. Does anyone who has think it made a noticable difference? And how much did you take off.