Re: Thanks Corse_R
 

Yes, searching info in the TA website is a pain in the a$$.... can be time to bonk some webmasters heads.

wonderboy- I have a 96 and 100 tooth spurs for my TC3, and I find those are all I need to get almost any FDR I need. The 96 seems to work better in stock with the larger pinions.

If you are looking for foam that is backed with adhesive you just need to make a trip to the craft department at your local walmart. They have 8x11 sheets of it for about $1. They also have it in about 6-10 colors. Good luck.

Thanks for the info.

Well, since you're doing it, I'll do it also....

I guess an effort at apologizing warrants me to strike my comments since it's not suitable for some readers.

I am two hours ahead of you so I'll live with the spelling errors.

See you in the spring. Bullseye has quite a schedule setup for you.

Hey Tony,
I'm eager to see your car pic. Got one to post ?

redsand: If you're talking about my RC car it basically looks like the one on the homepage. Same paint scheme but with sponsor stickers.

Cadet: [edit]

Oh, and btw, it's Emoticons.;)

Is it a typical practice to run lighter springs in the front for more bite? It could solely be the bumpy track I was on yesterday but past cars I have raced wanted stiffer springs in the front.

If you race in a bumpy track and/or doesn't have the grip you desire, you need to:

1- go lighter in oil and springs. My experience says me that stock springs work very good, maybe a blue spring at rear with 40 or 50 with the bigger pistons front and medium rears.

2- Raise your car. The sum of a lighter car in suspension and higher in clearance, gives us a higher roll center and thus, when cornering, help us to get more grip. The cars is more blobby but docile to drive on these conditions

3- Fitting inwards the upper shock position (center at front, center or inner at the rear should help too).

What you said: Bad idea my bro. If you soften only the front, when you throttle off, the weight distribution sends the weight of the car to the front, increasing steering and reducing grip at the rear, when you accelerate, it occurs the opposite, the weight in front is reduced and you loose steering when you're getting out the turns and hairpins.

the teflon seal on my rear hubs bearings came off! :eek: does that happen to you guys? I can see the balls and it's exposed to dirt...

Pull it out, spray it out, and turn it around so that the exposed side faces in. This is actually the way I run ALL the bearings. It makes the car much freer (freer???).

Corse-R....I love some of the words you use....blobby...heh heh

Thanks Tony :D

another big question about DIFF. My diffs slip even when I tighten it to the point where I can spin the stock motor when I turn a wheel.

I use the TA clear and black diff grease and I followed the instruction. I've build many different diffs before and this is the most tricky diff...

any TC3 diff building secret? :D

by the way, I am using the plastic diff outdrive.

Thanks!

Definitely you're overtightening your diffs, seems that you made something weird, let's go step by step:

1- Dismantle completely your diffs.
2- With a motorcleaner, clean all the plastic parts, outdrives, main gear.
3- With 400 grit sandpaper sand one face of the diff rings (one face of each diff ring). That sanded face should be touching with the plastic outdrive.
4- With the plastic completely cleaned and dry (the same applies to the diff ring) with a dab of CA, glue the sanded face to the plastic (just remember to do in the two pieces).
5- Apply some diff grease (stealth grease, MIP or whatever formuled to be used for ball diffs) in the holes who carry the balls and install them.
6- Apply a little grease in the diff rings (I said a little, not a quarter! ;) )
7- This is the ONLY place to put black grease, and is in the thrust bearing, forget about putting in gears or other places.
8- Install the thrust bearing & the screw.

Notes about tightening the ball diff. Get a good 5/64" allen wrench and send to the trash the included with the kit. I adjust my rear diff to permit a little slippage. Tighten the diff until you cannot move the main gear without moving the outdrives, then unscrew an 1/8 of a turn and this can be a good initial diff adjustment.

Take care, because the plastic diffs are famous to being loose in the first packs, recheck your diff after each pack until they seat completely (normally it takes 5 or 6 packs to completely seat the diff).

If you're going to dismantle your diffs, can be wise to change those bronze bushings for the optional bearings (no, the bearings that come in the steel diffs don't fit on plastic diffs, get the AE originals and don't be tempted to get the BB from Losi, are simmilar in inner and outer diameters, but are slightly wider and they don't work).

Hope this helps.

Hehehe.... how can define a TC3 with a suspension setup like I described? :sneaky: fluffy, blobby or something else.