On a rather funny note...
My neighbor recieved a TC3 RTR for Christmas, about a year ago. My racing buddy JUST got a FT TC3 for his Birthday, and worked the drivetrain to make it as free as possibal. The RTR's drive train spun for about seven seconds longer than my friends FT TC3!!!(both stock) I think that he did something wrong as he was building...:nod: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: Re: losi rear hubs
 

thxs for the help

No problem. :nod:

What is the proper procedure for adjusting the tweak out of a car? For instance, if my right front was "heavy", what should I do to correct it?

I believe that I would back off of the left rear shock tension to lighten the front right.

Thanks. Just curious why you suggest adjusting the back, not the front of the car. Also, do you check the car with the rear or front on the stationary side? or check both?

roll center
 

How other than camber link adjustment,can you change roll center on a tc3?

Losi Parts...
 

The only losi parts i run on my car are the rear hubs.. The ONLY reason i run them is for the longer camber link and also being able to adjust the outside ball on the camber link up or down without having to machine the stocks ones... I feel like when i run the stock location the Stock associated one's are fine..

I usually run 0 degree's losi blocks..


Mike Blackstock

Re: roll center
 

The only other thing you can do besides the camber links, IS to lower or raise the hinge pins.. This will also adjust the rolls center... But the only way to do this is to either have someone mill the f-r blocks down for you or use shims to raise them.. Very little here is huge on the racetracks and VERY noticeable...


Mike Blackstock

Great thanks for the help.

tweak?
 

I think I have a " tweak problem" in that when entering a corner off power turning left the car would rotate quickly and cause the back end to enter a skid while turning right off power the car is hooked up. Without having to say I have a tweak problem is there anything else you guys can think off that would cause this. The problem is more pronounced when I run a D5 than a KR motor, since the D5 seems to have some drag brake effect. This problems gets worse toward the 4 minute mark. Without giving more information on setup could heat from the motor and batteries be a factor in chassis tweak?

I would just make sure that all the hinge pins are straight, and make sure that the droop is set correctly.

When this occurs, are you using brake?
Because when I was at the Tamiya track not too long ago, I was setting my trim and had to go back and forth with my EVOIII. Then to stop, and turn I would use the brakes and the car would spin out to the left.(not touching the wheel)
Suposedly when the battery is on the left side, and the brakes are applied the "torque brake" makes the right side VERY light, and the right side tires loose traction. I solved it by just never using brakes(I didn't anyways).

I have also had very hot batteries and motors in my car, but I doubt that it warped my chassis. Although I have broken many cams on that car...:(

mike b - i've been told once the tweak is set on a car, to tighten up the droop to take up any slack of non-sprung travel. what is your take on this, and how do you set droop?

p.s. if this has been posted somewhere on the previous 267 pages, sorry for being repetitive, didn't go searching through all that! :)

Bubbles,

Thanks for your help, I checked the hinge pins and it seems the factory ones are slightly bent. When rear toe is measured on the hudy, the left side had about 2-1/2 degrees and the right side had about 2 degrees. I got some Bud's hinge pins ( seems the factory ones are rather soft) and now both sides read 2 degrees. Do you think the difference can cause that much of a problem.

When you have different toe on one side of the rear on the car, mostlikely the car's rear end will drift out to one side. Yet with only half of a degree of difference, it should not cause any problems.

I have also found that when using a rear bumper helps in "tweak prevention" in the fact that it is held center by the diff cases, and when you get hit on the rear arm(hmmmm, should be called a Leg... :lol: ) it has four screws holding the rear block to the chassis, rather than two.