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Vertical motor mount
1 Attachment(s)
Hello,
i'm new here on this thread... I wanted to know if anyone knows of someone fabricating a vert motor mount, that would fit over the Cardan (center shaft). Kind of like the M18 Xray I have...see pic below. thanks havy |
CG wayy to high with that on a TC3....:rolleyes:
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Re: Vertical motor mount
Originally posted by havy Hello, i'm new here on this thread... I wanted to know if anyone knows of someone fabricating a vert motor mount, that would fit over the Cardan (center shaft). Kind of like the M18 Xray I have...see pic below. thanks havy |
I know, I know...not worried about that.
Just wanted to know if I was going to have to make my own. Thanks havy |
Originally posted by havy I know, I know...not worried about that. Just wanted to know if I was going to have to make my own. Thanks havy |
Well, i know it would seem that way. I got alot of that when I decided to do it for the M18 I posted a picture of. Truth is...at least on the M18, performance is much improved. But that is because if you put 6 cells on one side of the chassis the balance is a little off, and putting weights didn't help much either. As for the TC3...I have other goals than to run it standard 6 cell setup. I want to run a Brushless set-up w/ eight cells, 4 on either side saddle pack style. Possibly run it at 200mm and w/ a 400 size motor (brushless), small spur and larger pinion the motor won't be that high over the Cardan.
I didn't want to stir anything up, it's really not much of an issue for me... I just didn't know if anyone was making one as I have heard of it done w/ the TC3. Just curious to know if anyone was making one. Thanks though, I appreciate you guys responding quick to help out. havy |
I think it would be alot easier to just leave the motor in place and put 4 cells where the electronics go and put the electronics on the left front. If you can make that mount you could make slots where the electronics sit. Plus balance would be alot better than if all the weight was at the back.
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MB,
Have you or anybody else tried running the R block upfront instead of the F block to get negative kickup. I have tried it on asphalt, and makes the car very agressive, which I like, just wonder if you see any downside to this(affecting the suspension angles). Thanks |
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT I think it would be alot easier to just leave the motor in place and put 4 cells where the electronics go and put the electronics on the left front. If you can make that mount you could make slots where the electronics sit. Plus balance would be alot better than if all the weight was at the back. Thanks again, havy |
Can someone post a couple front views of their TC3 that show both droop and the front shocks? If possible, I'd like to see the car both on and off the ground.
I must have somthing set up wrong here becausewith the droop set to 5, I have NO suspension travel. The shock is totally compressed. Am I measuring droop wrong? I'm following the kit instructions and measuring with the provided tool. I put the flat against the chassis, and measure to the end of the arm. At about 5.5, the arms are parallel with both the chassis and each other, but the shock is completely compressed. I don't get it. Sorry if this is a dumb question but I've never even seen a touring car assembled in real life and can't find any good pics on the net. |
Originally posted by Griffin Can someone post a couple front views of their TC3 that show both droop and the front shocks? If possible, I'd like to see the car both on and off the ground. I must have somthing set up wrong here becausewith the droop set to 5, I have NO suspension travel. The shock is totally compressed. Am I measuring droop wrong? I'm following the kit instructions and measuring with the provided tool. I put the flat against the chassis, and measure to the end of the arm. At about 5.5, the arms are parallel with both the chassis and each other, but the shock is completely compressed. I don't get it. Sorry if this is a dumb question but I've never even seen a touring car assembled in real life and can't find any good pics on the net. |
HeY hEy
I remember when i use to measure droop wrong and i also use to set droop first befor ride height but that was like back in my sportsman days about 1 1/2 yrs ago but yeah i learned alot since then and i'm still learing alot every time i race. |
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a pic my droop is set at 7
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Everyone,
Thank you very much for your help. The problem is solved. It turns out that I had the lower spring perch installed on the shaft upside down. :blush: Oops. As far as my transmitter woes go, it turns out it's just plain broken. I took it to my local hobby shop (Speedworld Raceway in Roseville - I HIGHLY recommend them - Great service and even better people - they do mail order too at speedworldraceway.com - check the prices) and nobody was able to figure out why the transmitter was not getting input from the throttle control trigger. Even the EPA setting, which can usually be set for a different forward and brake value, would not register the throttle input. Anyway, sorry to get off topic and THANKS AGAIN to everyone who helped a newbie. -Griffin |
Changing to pin cushions
Guys
Does anyone know how I can get the standard pins out the FT CVDs to change to pin cushions. Unfortunately I only have a pair of pliers and can't get them out :mad: Is there any way to loosen them? Cheers |
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