unknownmember

iTrader: (4)

I'm guessing this maybe rather absurd but I was thinkin of hotting up one of these for pure straight line speed. Will the tranny allow me to do so? Thinkin of a 3 - 3.5T 2S. Now you might be askin why not just get a pan car? Coz I'd like it to be as scaled looks as possible yet still have the ridiculous speed. This is not first attempt at squeezing out top speed with an RC car though. Tried it with my TCX without any mods, significant setup or proper gearing and it managed about 100KPH. Though I did mounted a front spoiler like the Scion time attack car but not as high tho, just in line with the hood. And a front splitter which I'm not sure if it made any difference but I do know the front spoiler did a lot It bottom out the front of the chassis lol and yes I did jacked up the front end after I mounted the spoiler.

Thanks

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

pHHT- for 4 minutes

See you Sunday buddy!

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

If I can get 4 minutes I'm on to something good.

So it's NOT gonna rain?

Could get ugly.

kneedeeppow

it rains in cali???,noooooooooo

cowboySiR

iTrader: (8)

probably would get better stability out of an F201, tamiya's 4wd F1 car.

i may be new to this forum but my opinion (for what its worth) is that making an F104 super fast is very similar to what i say to micro forum members when they make a Mini-Z super fast...a neat acheivement but not very useful.

kb525

Having run an Xmods at over 10 volts, I agree. But it was still fun as heck eve though it burned the motor after runing.

That said I am thinking of runing an f104 with a 3cell lipo for fun.

InspGadgt

The tranny in the F104 will handle it easy...there is no tranny...it only has 2 gears and is direct drive. The problem is going to be like any other pan car...traction.

The F201 would be easier to drive given that it is 4wd...however the tranny will not take that much power without melting down.

Deznuts05

iTrader: (14)

Hello I'm trying to find the bearing sizes for this kit.

I've read the manual cover to cover and it doesn't state their size. I figure they are metric but as per size I have no clue.

Any help would be appreciated.

Front Wheels
Rear Axles
Diff

Thank you,
Rudy Diaz

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Behind the part number it says for example 1060
This means that the bearing is 10mm outside and 6mm inside diameter
Tamiya uses the size in 2 pairs of numbers
850 means 8 outside 5 inside and so on.
1280 are the diff bearings(12 outside 8 inside)
1060 are the rear axle bearings(10 outside 6 inside)
1050 are the front wheel bearings(10 outside and 5 inside)

regards Roy

CR0SS

iTrader: (5)

The only measurement I had issues finding was the width. I did a google search for the part number and some Ebay auctions had pictures of the bearings in packaging. The packaging had a small diagram with all the bearing dimensions.

I cannot find the sheet of paper where I wrote all the sizes down. If I find it I will post them up.

gtfour93

iTrader: (22)

I've used www.avidrc.com search box to find the exact dimensions of bearings.
For example, type in 5x8 for an 850 bearing, and the width is 2.5, etc.

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

i have been thinking of getting some bearings what are the thoughts on ceramic bearings. Is any one using these at all

Andrew Barr

iTrader: (73)

Anyone???

Mr P!nk

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I can't answer your first question, but as far as glueing goes I use contact cement for glueing counter tops. Just brush a coat of it onto the wheel, and a coat on the inside of the foam and let them dry for about 15 minutes. Then dunk both in some laquer thinner and they'll slide right together. Use some paper towel and laquer thinner to clean off any of the glue that gets on the side walls.
Its actually a pretty easy task once you do it a few times.

CR0SS

iTrader: (5)

I just put ceramic bearings in the front wheels. I also have a set for the rear axle I have not put in yet. I will let you know how they work out.

Out having some fun yesterday.

+ YouTube Video