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Tamiya F104 Pro!

Old 07-17-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 5VoltDetonator View Post
I will be another San Diego F1 Rookie Driver, first off thanks for your help. I am still a little confused why you are saying to get hard rears? The guy who TQ'd here at our parking lot track with a FGX was using Soft ribbed shimizu's on front and soft ribbed shimizu's on rear. I been trying to read through all this info and I have seen both suggested. Are the Hards on the rear meant to last longer? I want to order tires and so far i got the soft fronts shimizu's and both med and Soft rears in the cart? Do I really want the hards in the rear, I know there is a thread that talks more about this- so I'm off to find it. Any help / advice / links are appreciated by this rookie- Thanks!
For the F104 Pit Shimizu 0571 and 0572. Yes it says "hard" on the package/description, but it is still softer than the "soft" front.

For the F103 Pit Shimizu 0541 and 0542. See above.

For the FGX Pit Shimizu 0561 and 0565. With this series of tires, the rears really are harder than the fronts.

80% of your problems are solved by getting these tires. Full sauce on the rears, start with none at the front and slowly add compound to the width of the front tire to get the desired balance.

As a fellow newbie F1 driver that has progressed quickly, my impressions of the F104 are listed below:

In my experience, tuning the diff so it is just on the verge of slipping from a standstill launch will also help the car be easier to drive.

If upgrading, I recommend the High Traction T-Bar to get even more rear grip under acceleration. Getting even a Tamiya CVA shock and M-Chassis gold spring(and adjusting the length for droop), can make the car feel more "locked" down and easier to correct.

More subtle changes can be made by changing the front spring stiffness, adding the heavy pivot post and/or rear counter-weight and adding/subtracting posts between the upper/lower chassis.
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:20 PM
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If anybody is interested in a barely used Tamiya F104 w/ upgrades, electronics, and spare parts, be sure to take a look at this one
.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:10 PM
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TwoWheel is on point and obviously has his F1 stuff down nicely for a self proclaimed newbie at F1.
Nice work man.
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:41 AM
  #8674  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
TwoWheel is on point and obviously has his F1 stuff down nicely for a self proclaimed newbie at F1.
Nice work man.
Twowheel is not a newbie.
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by theDover View Post
Does anyone run Brushless "blinky" 21.5 / 48 pitch?

I'm converting my 104 Pro from brushed to brushless and I run 48 pitch, so I'm looking for a Spur / Pinion gearing to start with. Track is a 120' x 80' med-high grip outdoor asphalt. Warm Temps outside. I have no idea what FDR i'm looking for.

Any suggestions? I need some advice before I Race Sunday. Thanks.
try 72/24 to start off with....
FDR 3.0 and go from there
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TwoWheel View Post
For the F104 Pit Shimizu 0571 and 0572. Yes it says "hard" on the package/description, but it is still softer than the "soft" front.

.
Thanks for making it clear that the rear "hards" actually feel soft- I'm ordering those.

Got another quick F1 newb questions for ya.

We will be running 21.5 motors

I got a GTB2 Novak esc and a Ballistic sensored 21.5 that I want to use? Think it will be any good. I see the other 3 brands people are using and Tamiya Silver can and I wondered if there was a big difference? I would think a sensored motor would be better yeah?

How much does the C rating matter using lipos? I think I've heard it matters alot with 17.5 class, so I would think it would matter with 21.5, but then again I've also heard I may need to turn throttle down so I dont know if the "C" matters? I have some 65 c turnigy nanos but they have the connectors coming out of the top. Will those fit? I also have some Gen Ace with connectors coming out the end but I think they are only 25C OR 35c.


Thanks for the help- Robert

Last edited by 5VoltDetonator; 07-18-2012 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:17 AM
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I run a gtb 2. Works fine. Fitting it is the only issue. If you run a shorty pack that will eliminate that issue. I wouldn't worry about the C rating much. I run 40c packs and car can still seem too fast for me.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by texastc View Post
I run a gtb 2. Works fine. Fitting it is the only issue. If you run a shorty pack that will eliminate that issue. I wouldn't worry about the C rating much. I run 40c packs and car can still seem too fast for me.
cool thanks

One other thing have you seen those body's on ebay that are chrome eletroplated and look like a Mercedes Fodafone? I'm at work so I cant link to ebay but the item number is 26106416288. Anybody know how good they look in person. I don't think they have the exact same lines as the Tamiya body. Are they a cheap knock off or are they ok? Also since they are one piece instead of Three piece like other f1 bodies are they any more durable?
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 5VoltDetonator View Post
Thanks for making it clear that the rear "hards" actually feel soft- I'm ordering those.

Got another quick F1 newb questions for ya.

We will be running 21.5 motors

I got a GTB2 Novak esc and a Ballistic sensored 21.5 that I want to use? Think it will be any good. I see the other 3 brands people are using and Tamiya Silver can and I wondered if there was a big difference? I would think a sensored motor would be better yeah?

How much does the C rating matter using lipos? I think I've heard it matters alot with 17.5 class, so I would think it would matter with 21.5, but then again I've also heard I may need to turn throttle down so I dont know if the "C" matters? I have some 65 c turnigy nanos but they have the connectors coming out of the top. Will those fit? I also have some Gen Ace with connectors coming out the end but I think they are only 25C OR 35c.


Thanks for the help- Robert

Personally the only disadvantage you will see with the gtb is size. As for
batteries I would run the highest C and capacity possible within reason. More power= less dump
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
Personally the only disadvantage you will see with the gtb is size. As for
batteries I would run the highest C and capacity possible within a shorty pack. More power= less dump
We are seeing an average of 1100ma of use during our 10m UF1 races
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
We are seeing an average of 1100ma of use during our 10m UF1 races
Gear up!
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
Gear up!
I know right
Cause 2.7 fdr, with max endbell is such a mellow setup
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:37 PM
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Lol go for no fade?
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
Lol go for no fade?
I fade plenty in 10m
The car, not so much
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Old 07-18-2012, 04:24 PM
  #8685  
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Originally Posted by 5VoltDetonator View Post
cool thanks

One other thing have you seen those body's on ebay that are chrome eletroplated and look like a Mercedes Fodafone? I'm at work so I cant link to ebay but the item number is 26106416288. Anybody know how good they look in person. I don't think they have the exact same lines as the Tamiya body. Are they a cheap knock off or are they ok? Also since they are one piece instead of Three piece like other f1 bodies are they any more durable?
I got there Ferrari stickers and they are prity average in that they dont like any surface other than totally flat as they are quite thick and they were meant to be 2012 and they are really 2011 and some vital stickers were missing off the sheet as well.I complained and they did give me a partial refund but would rather have had all the stickers like they represented.
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