"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
#1006
Hello Jilles!
I just wonder if you use any assist on the radio like changing the throttle curve and stuff thats similar to that?
Thanks!
I just wonder if you use any assist on the radio like changing the throttle curve and stuff thats similar to that?
Thanks!
#1007
Hi Jilles, i understand that you're using gear diff in your m05 at recent TITC race. May i ask if you fix the gear diff as per instruction? Do you add any shim to it to create some "tight-ness" for the gear diff?
I use and build as per instruction with some AW grease in it. The feeling is nice driving the car for only 1st 1 min. After 1min, the diff action is SO lose that every corner when i accelerate the car doesn't seem to move at all.
Please kindly enlighten me on this. Thank you & i am looking forward hearing from you again. Cheers!!
I use and build as per instruction with some AW grease in it. The feeling is nice driving the car for only 1st 1 min. After 1min, the diff action is SO lose that every corner when i accelerate the car doesn't seem to move at all.
Please kindly enlighten me on this. Thank you & i am looking forward hearing from you again. Cheers!!
#1008
Tech Adept
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
#1009
You can buy after market Double Cardan joint drive shafts at the site below. They sell individual parts for rebuilding also. I have not tried it personally, so cannot advise on the durability or performance.
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
read somewhere that by using grubscrew, you'll put extra stress on the already small diameter pin, hence more prone to breakage. it was on the atomic CVS unit though, but i think atomic is the same as spec-r, can anyone confirm this.
#1010
Tech Champion
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You can buy after market Double Cardan joint drive shafts at the site below. They sell individual parts for rebuilding also. I have not tried it personally, so cannot advise on the durability or performance.
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
#1011
i've used these, so far so good. the only modification i made to the units were to hold the pins using heatshrink instead of grub screw.
read somewhere that by using grubscrew, you'll put extra stress on the already small diameter pin, hence more prone to breakage. it was on the atomic CVS unit though, but i think atomic is the same as spec-r, can anyone confirm this.
read somewhere that by using grubscrew, you'll put extra stress on the already small diameter pin, hence more prone to breakage. it was on the atomic CVS unit though, but i think atomic is the same as spec-r, can anyone confirm this.
#1012
Hello all, this is my first request to Jilles. I want to know exactly the serial numbers of the springs HPI Gold and Silver used on asphalt with Tamiya.
Thks
Enrico
Thks
Enrico
Last edited by 20967; 04-17-2010 at 10:20 AM.
#1013
I use titanium pins on my spec r and heat shrink, never had a problem.
#1015
#1016
Tech Adept
#1017
AZ416,
You need to replace the diff ring ones in a while. You can't keep them sanding all the time. I recommend using ceramic ball, this is a small investment but you can use them almost forever!
Andrew,
If I make a big crash I normally first untight the topdeck and tight it again and check the tweak of the chassis. If the car still feels not the same as before you should check things like bulkheads and most of the time a suspension block is bend. I normally have two cars but I practise only with one car. Before a race starts I normally check all parts, rebuild my car, make one or two runs and keep the car till the race starts.
Kevin,
We have tried the double joint axles before during the worlds practise in 2008.
We actually didn't like it at that track as the car didn't slowdown to much in the corner and caused more understeer then regular axles.
They are also a lot weaker and can brake more easily.
I'm sure for some tracks or conditions it might be better.
Not sure if Tamiya will make these axles as the result is minimum.
Andy63,
Good question. Yes, I play a lot with TH/Curve and ST/Curve.
Mostly ST/Curve, this makes the car a lot less nervous when going to -20 for example. With modified I use - on the TH/Curve, mostly -10 or -15.
In stock you can use + TH/Curve to gain a little more punch.
This is very important to test for yourself the different in feeling.
It even can help you car from making donuts to actually going around the track smooth and easy.
Colt1402,
At the TITC I used a geardiff with cleaning gum inside the diff. This makes almost a spool effect. If you seal the diff good enough with some glue, you can use the diff for a very long time without rebuilding it.
Enrico,
I don't have the exact serial numbers of the springs. But I quess if you look for HPI springs you will find them easily.
Jilles
You need to replace the diff ring ones in a while. You can't keep them sanding all the time. I recommend using ceramic ball, this is a small investment but you can use them almost forever!
Andrew,
If I make a big crash I normally first untight the topdeck and tight it again and check the tweak of the chassis. If the car still feels not the same as before you should check things like bulkheads and most of the time a suspension block is bend. I normally have two cars but I practise only with one car. Before a race starts I normally check all parts, rebuild my car, make one or two runs and keep the car till the race starts.
Kevin,
We have tried the double joint axles before during the worlds practise in 2008.
We actually didn't like it at that track as the car didn't slowdown to much in the corner and caused more understeer then regular axles.
They are also a lot weaker and can brake more easily.
I'm sure for some tracks or conditions it might be better.
Not sure if Tamiya will make these axles as the result is minimum.
Andy63,
Good question. Yes, I play a lot with TH/Curve and ST/Curve.
Mostly ST/Curve, this makes the car a lot less nervous when going to -20 for example. With modified I use - on the TH/Curve, mostly -10 or -15.
In stock you can use + TH/Curve to gain a little more punch.
This is very important to test for yourself the different in feeling.
It even can help you car from making donuts to actually going around the track smooth and easy.
Colt1402,
At the TITC I used a geardiff with cleaning gum inside the diff. This makes almost a spool effect. If you seal the diff good enough with some glue, you can use the diff for a very long time without rebuilding it.
Enrico,
I don't have the exact serial numbers of the springs. But I quess if you look for HPI springs you will find them easily.
Jilles
#1018
#1019
Thanks Jilles for your tips & sharing!!
#1020
Hi Jilles, I have a Nosram Stock Spec, would you recommend running with drag brake for 13.5T? Have you tried the L version of the mini?
Thanks in advance. Joel.
Thanks in advance. Joel.