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Old 04-14-2010, 05:22 PM
  #1006  
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Hello Jilles!
I just wonder if you use any assist on the radio like changing the throttle curve and stuff thats similar to that?

Thanks!
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:17 AM
  #1007  
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Originally Posted by JGH
Set-up M05 of TITC
Hi Jilles, i understand that you're using gear diff in your m05 at recent TITC race. May i ask if you fix the gear diff as per instruction? Do you add any shim to it to create some "tight-ness" for the gear diff?

I use and build as per instruction with some AW grease in it. The feeling is nice driving the car for only 1st 1 min. After 1min, the diff action is SO lose that every corner when i accelerate the car doesn't seem to move at all.

Please kindly enlighten me on this. Thank you & i am looking forward hearing from you again. Cheers!!
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:43 AM
  #1008  
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
Jilles.....do you know or can you tell us if Tamiya is working on a Double jointed axle/cvd like X-ray and Hot-Bodies have to help when using a spool for416?
You can buy after market Double Cardan joint drive shafts at the site below. They sell individual parts for rebuilding also. I have not tried it personally, so cannot advise on the durability or performance.

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:02 AM
  #1009  
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Originally Posted by andrew188
You can buy after market Double Cardan joint drive shafts at the site below. They sell individual parts for rebuilding also. I have not tried it personally, so cannot advise on the durability or performance.

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
i've used these, so far so good. the only modification i made to the units were to hold the pins using heatshrink instead of grub screw.

read somewhere that by using grubscrew, you'll put extra stress on the already small diameter pin, hence more prone to breakage. it was on the atomic CVS unit though, but i think atomic is the same as spec-r, can anyone confirm this.
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:35 AM
  #1010  
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Originally Posted by andrew188
You can buy after market Double Cardan joint drive shafts at the site below. They sell individual parts for rebuilding also. I have not tried it personally, so cannot advise on the durability or performance.

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...16-p-3368.html
Yeah I have a set of these and they work ok with 21.5 but others that have used them in 13.5 and 17.5 said they didnt last very long...the pins broke among other issues. So thats why i was looking for a Factory part from Tamiya that might not have these issues.
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:38 AM
  #1011  
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Originally Posted by dodo
i've used these, so far so good. the only modification i made to the units were to hold the pins using heatshrink instead of grub screw.

read somewhere that by using grubscrew, you'll put extra stress on the already small diameter pin, hence more prone to breakage. it was on the atomic CVS unit though, but i think atomic is the same as spec-r, can anyone confirm this.
to add on.... i used mine on 11.5R, with turbo featured ESC and still hold up good.
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:43 AM
  #1012  
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Hello all, this is my first request to Jilles. I want to know exactly the serial numbers of the springs HPI Gold and Silver used on asphalt with Tamiya.

Thks
Enrico

Last edited by 20967; 04-17-2010 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:31 PM
  #1013  
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
Yeah I have a set of these and they work ok with 21.5 but others that have used them in 13.5 and 17.5 said they didnt last very long...the pins broke among other issues. So thats why i was looking for a Factory part from Tamiya that might not have these issues.
I use titanium pins on my spec r and heat shrink, never had a problem.
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Old 04-16-2010, 07:07 PM
  #1014  
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Originally Posted by cheehtae
I use titanium pins on my spec r and heat shrink, never had a problem.
where to get the titanium pin ?
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:21 PM
  #1015  
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Originally Posted by kschu
where to get the titanium pin ?
go to your dentist and ask them for some titanium post that they used for post and core. that's what I use.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:39 PM
  #1016  
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Originally Posted by cheehtae
go to your dentist and ask them for some titanium post that they used for post and core. that's what I use.
Ha ... that is very creative of you
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:37 PM
  #1017  
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AZ416,
You need to replace the diff ring ones in a while. You can't keep them sanding all the time. I recommend using ceramic ball, this is a small investment but you can use them almost forever!

Andrew,
If I make a big crash I normally first untight the topdeck and tight it again and check the tweak of the chassis. If the car still feels not the same as before you should check things like bulkheads and most of the time a suspension block is bend. I normally have two cars but I practise only with one car. Before a race starts I normally check all parts, rebuild my car, make one or two runs and keep the car till the race starts.

Kevin,
We have tried the double joint axles before during the worlds practise in 2008.
We actually didn't like it at that track as the car didn't slowdown to much in the corner and caused more understeer then regular axles.
They are also a lot weaker and can brake more easily.
I'm sure for some tracks or conditions it might be better.
Not sure if Tamiya will make these axles as the result is minimum.

Andy63,
Good question. Yes, I play a lot with TH/Curve and ST/Curve.
Mostly ST/Curve, this makes the car a lot less nervous when going to -20 for example. With modified I use - on the TH/Curve, mostly -10 or -15.
In stock you can use + TH/Curve to gain a little more punch.
This is very important to test for yourself the different in feeling.
It even can help you car from making donuts to actually going around the track smooth and easy.

Colt1402,
At the TITC I used a geardiff with cleaning gum inside the diff. This makes almost a spool effect. If you seal the diff good enough with some glue, you can use the diff for a very long time without rebuilding it.

Enrico,
I don't have the exact serial numbers of the springs. But I quess if you look for HPI springs you will find them easily.

Jilles
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:55 AM
  #1018  
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Originally Posted by JGH
AZ416,
You need to replace the diff ring ones in a while. You can't keep them sanding all the time. I recommend using ceramic ball, this is a small investment but you can use them almost forever!


Jilles
thanks jilles ill order some new ones =)
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:45 AM
  #1019  
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Originally Posted by JGH
AZ416,
Colt1402,
At the TITC I used a geardiff with cleaning gum inside the diff. This makes almost a spool effect. If you seal the diff good enough with some glue, you can use the diff for a very long time without rebuilding it.

Jilles
Thanks Jilles for your tips & sharing!!
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:00 AM
  #1020  
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Hi Jilles, I have a Nosram Stock Spec, would you recommend running with drag brake for 13.5T? Have you tried the L version of the mini?

Thanks in advance. Joel.
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