"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
#256
Hi Jilles..have some questions on the 416WE setup. i was testing on shock setup on asphalt lately. i was using 60wt oil front and rear, and tested on softer setup of Tamiya yellows, and then changed to HPI Pinks. The HPI Pinks are harder than the Tamiya Yellows, and i felt the car was easier to drive on softer springs. In your opinion, what do you think of these combination of shock oil/spring and what kind of driving characteristics it would have on the 416WE...? Thanks..
Also, could you explain a little bit on the car handling characteristics when using the 2-piece upper deck and the 1-piece upper deck, considering if everthing else stays the same?
Thanks!
Also, could you explain a little bit on the car handling characteristics when using the 2-piece upper deck and the 1-piece upper deck, considering if everthing else stays the same?
Thanks!
#257
Tech Rookie
Hello Jilles!
i have a question about the new speed passion 2.0 pro speedo! i red, that you, marc und viktor tested the new esc!I had also tested it at the weekend, but i have to say that im not sooo impressed about the this esc!
I feel, that the new sxx or the new pearl have more power at the same runtime!
Power Programm at the sxx: 5
Power Programm "DRRS" at the sp: 8
batteries: smc
motor: sp 3,5T with 12,5 rotor, Timing between b-c for longer runtime!
I had tested all "DRRS" at the speedo, but the performace didnīt changed drastic!
what do you say about that?
can you say me why marc didnīt drive the new speedo at the last ETS?
i have a question about the new speed passion 2.0 pro speedo! i red, that you, marc und viktor tested the new esc!I had also tested it at the weekend, but i have to say that im not sooo impressed about the this esc!
I feel, that the new sxx or the new pearl have more power at the same runtime!
Power Programm at the sxx: 5
Power Programm "DRRS" at the sp: 8
batteries: smc
motor: sp 3,5T with 12,5 rotor, Timing between b-c for longer runtime!
I had tested all "DRRS" at the speedo, but the performace didnīt changed drastic!
what do you say about that?
can you say me why marc didnīt drive the new speedo at the last ETS?
#258
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Hi Jilles..have some questions on the 416WE setup. i was testing on shock setup on asphalt lately. i was using 60wt oil front and rear, and tested on softer setup of Tamiya yellows, and then changed to HPI Pinks. The HPI Pinks are harder than the Tamiya Yellows, and i felt the car was easier to drive on softer springs. In your opinion, what do you think of these combination of shock oil/spring and what kind of driving characteristics it would have on the 416WE...? Thanks..
Also, could you explain a little bit on the car handling characteristics when using the 2-piece upper deck and the 1-piece upper deck, considering if everthing else stays the same?
Thanks!
Also, could you explain a little bit on the car handling characteristics when using the 2-piece upper deck and the 1-piece upper deck, considering if everthing else stays the same?
Thanks!
There is a big difference between HPI pinks and tamiya yellow. On asphalt I never go softer than tamiya blue, or harder than white, but I normally stick to HPI blue or silver which are rated between the two tamiyas but linear as opposed to progressive. The HPIs work better on asphalt everywhere in my opinion, and I've run blue all round, silver all round, and silver front blue rear all with good results
Next up your shock oil is probably too heavy. I've used 60 in high temp high grip, but normally run 400(35)-500(45). This depends on your track tho
#259
3.1415926
A softer spring drives more easy then a hard spring. A softer spring is mostly used when it's hot, the tyre get less overheated. A harder spring is sometimes faster but harder to drive and more tyre overheating. A soft spring needs slightly softer oil then a harder spring otherwise the shock doesn't work good.
I can't tell you the differents between one piece topdeck and two piece. The one piece was made because we all cut the rear brace to get more flex in the rear.
Sometimes I use the two piece topdeck without cutting the brace to get a stiffer rear for more rotation in the corner.
Manuel26,
We are still testing the speedo as it seems that the capacitor has still some issues. This is the reason Marc didn't use the speedo at the LRP masters.
Power is same as LRP, we are still trying to get the settings better for the runtime.
Thanks Craig for your input!
Jilles
A softer spring drives more easy then a hard spring. A softer spring is mostly used when it's hot, the tyre get less overheated. A harder spring is sometimes faster but harder to drive and more tyre overheating. A soft spring needs slightly softer oil then a harder spring otherwise the shock doesn't work good.
I can't tell you the differents between one piece topdeck and two piece. The one piece was made because we all cut the rear brace to get more flex in the rear.
Sometimes I use the two piece topdeck without cutting the brace to get a stiffer rear for more rotation in the corner.
Manuel26,
We are still testing the speedo as it seems that the capacitor has still some issues. This is the reason Marc didn't use the speedo at the LRP masters.
Power is same as LRP, we are still trying to get the settings better for the runtime.
Thanks Craig for your input!
Jilles
#260
Hi Jilles
i was testing ready for the Euro's at Apeldoorn NL on sunday , a couple of the local boys had less spacers in the steeing (more ackerman i think)
what will this make the car do ??
got lots of steering but not a lot of rear grip
set up as per your asphalt but 1.5 camber all round (rear tyres wern't wearing on the outside with 2 )
hope you can help
cheeRS phil
i was testing ready for the Euro's at Apeldoorn NL on sunday , a couple of the local boys had less spacers in the steeing (more ackerman i think)
what will this make the car do ??
got lots of steering but not a lot of rear grip
set up as per your asphalt but 1.5 camber all round (rear tyres wern't wearing on the outside with 2 )
hope you can help
cheeRS phil
#261
Thank you Jilles for the advise. I see you extended my Pi name to another digit...for another decimal point it would be 3.14159265..
So you suggest that I use softer oil with softer spring I did try 40wt and 50wt shock oil with softer springs like the Tamiya Yellow but I thought I prefer this spring with 60Wt with it. I will try again with 50wt oil again this weekend. Maybe could you please enlighten me a little on why you chose 700wt and HPI Silvers (quite hard) during the Worlds and TITC? I would thought the harder shock oil would give you a more sluggish car but it didnt actually look so on the actual race. Thanks again for the advise
So you suggest that I use softer oil with softer spring I did try 40wt and 50wt shock oil with softer springs like the Tamiya Yellow but I thought I prefer this spring with 60Wt with it. I will try again with 50wt oil again this weekend. Maybe could you please enlighten me a little on why you chose 700wt and HPI Silvers (quite hard) during the Worlds and TITC? I would thought the harder shock oil would give you a more sluggish car but it didnt actually look so on the actual race. Thanks again for the advise
#262
Phil,
Your set-up looks good, maybe you just have the wrong additive/tyre combination. I will be at the Apeldoorn track hopefully on Thursday to do some testing. The more spacer for the ackermann the more aggressive steering you get.
So you can start with 4mm. Let's talk in Apeldoorn and get it all fixed.
Phi,
The 700W with the Silver spring was the right combo at the Worlds. This doesn't mean it works also on other tracks.
With Tamiya Yellow my feeling is to get softer then 700 otherwise the spring doesn't work anymore. Let me know how the 500W goes.
Jilles
Your set-up looks good, maybe you just have the wrong additive/tyre combination. I will be at the Apeldoorn track hopefully on Thursday to do some testing. The more spacer for the ackermann the more aggressive steering you get.
So you can start with 4mm. Let's talk in Apeldoorn and get it all fixed.
Phi,
The 700W with the Silver spring was the right combo at the Worlds. This doesn't mean it works also on other tracks.
With Tamiya Yellow my feeling is to get softer then 700 otherwise the spring doesn't work anymore. Let me know how the 500W goes.
Jilles
#263
again jilles a legend
i will be there from friday as i need to work thursday
but it will be good to talk
speak friday
i will be there from friday as i need to work thursday
but it will be good to talk
speak friday
#264
Tech Adept
What tyre additive do you use on carpet and on asphalt?
#265
Jilles
Have you ever tried 2 hole pistons with softer oil compared
to 3 pistons with harder oil?
Are 3 hole pistons faster in general?
Thanks
Have you ever tried 2 hole pistons with softer oil compared
to 3 pistons with harder oil?
Are 3 hole pistons faster in general?
Thanks
#266
hi jilles,
what diff balls do you find the best and what brand?.Been looking for the carbide balls but all out of stock every where i try. Is ceramic just as good as i have all ways used carbide ball tried using kit balls but the diff gos off after the first run in stock.
thanks
clinton
what diff balls do you find the best and what brand?.Been looking for the carbide balls but all out of stock every where i try. Is ceramic just as good as i have all ways used carbide ball tried using kit balls but the diff gos off after the first run in stock.
thanks
clinton
Last edited by e4rs; 05-27-2009 at 04:55 AM.
#267
Hi Jilles,
I'm currently trying alternative set ups for my TA05, and I would like to have your views about the following questions:
When would you change the shock absorber's position, instead of changing shock oil or spring?
Are there specific circumstances when you would change the roll center position before anything else ?
thx
I'm currently trying alternative set ups for my TA05, and I would like to have your views about the following questions:
When would you change the shock absorber's position, instead of changing shock oil or spring?
Are there specific circumstances when you would change the roll center position before anything else ?
thx
#268
Tech Adept
Hi Jilles,
Great idea with this thread. You helped me a lot with your informations here about tire-warming, and other things. I'm very fast on the tracks but I have no Know about setups and co *lol*... Of course I can ask the peoples on the races about the right setups and so, but it would be better for me, if I have this tipps "black on white"
What do you do if you have low steering, to much steering, low rear/front grip, to nervous rear/front, sluggish rear, ... I know, there are many things I can change, but what are the 2-3 things you do if you have those problems. We drive with the Sorex36 in switzerland. And I'm a driver who breaks a lot!
I think such a list would be good here. After that you have no more Questions about "what is when I have..."
For example: More Steering -> - ... first change you do...
- ... second change you do...
- ... third change you do...
Thanks you!
Sandro
Great idea with this thread. You helped me a lot with your informations here about tire-warming, and other things. I'm very fast on the tracks but I have no Know about setups and co *lol*... Of course I can ask the peoples on the races about the right setups and so, but it would be better for me, if I have this tipps "black on white"
What do you do if you have low steering, to much steering, low rear/front grip, to nervous rear/front, sluggish rear, ... I know, there are many things I can change, but what are the 2-3 things you do if you have those problems. We drive with the Sorex36 in switzerland. And I'm a driver who breaks a lot!
I think such a list would be good here. After that you have no more Questions about "what is when I have..."
For example: More Steering -> - ... first change you do...
- ... second change you do...
- ... third change you do...
Thanks you!
Sandro
#270
Tech Addict
You may also find the book by Martin Crisp useful
http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=3209
...
http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=3209
...