T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#2731
#2732
Hi All,
I posted a few pages back about my bowed chassis.....
After building it all up piece by piece and checking for flatness in between I've traced the problem to the top deck. It's 0.6mm too short! I measure the didtance between inside hole centre on the top deck to be 154.2mm and the bulkhead holes are 154.8mm apart centre to centre.
I've attached a picture which illustrates the problem. Every other screw on the chassis/bulkhead/wings is done up and the chassis is flat. Both belts are off and the diffs are out/dampers off. As has been said before the countersunk design of all parts means you can't build tweak in or out of the car.
Can anyone compare lengths with me? Particulary I'm intersted if a new top deck might sort it if I have a duff one.
I posted a few pages back about my bowed chassis.....
After building it all up piece by piece and checking for flatness in between I've traced the problem to the top deck. It's 0.6mm too short! I measure the didtance between inside hole centre on the top deck to be 154.2mm and the bulkhead holes are 154.8mm apart centre to centre.
I've attached a picture which illustrates the problem. Every other screw on the chassis/bulkhead/wings is done up and the chassis is flat. Both belts are off and the diffs are out/dampers off. As has been said before the countersunk design of all parts means you can't build tweak in or out of the car.
Can anyone compare lengths with me? Particulary I'm intersted if a new top deck might sort it if I have a duff one.
#2733
Hi All,
I posted a few pages back about my bowed chassis.....
After building it all up piece by piece and checking for flatness in between I've traced the problem to the top deck. It's 0.6mm too short! I measure the didtance between inside hole centre on the top deck to be 154.2mm and the bulkhead holes are 154.8mm apart centre to centre.
I've attached a picture which illustrates the problem. Every other screw on the chassis/bulkhead/wings is done up and the chassis is flat. Both belts are off and the diffs are out/dampers off. As has been said before the countersunk design of all parts means you can't build tweak in or out of the car.
Can anyone compare lengths with me? Particulary I'm intersted if a new top deck might sort it if I have a duff one.
I posted a few pages back about my bowed chassis.....
After building it all up piece by piece and checking for flatness in between I've traced the problem to the top deck. It's 0.6mm too short! I measure the didtance between inside hole centre on the top deck to be 154.2mm and the bulkhead holes are 154.8mm apart centre to centre.
I've attached a picture which illustrates the problem. Every other screw on the chassis/bulkhead/wings is done up and the chassis is flat. Both belts are off and the diffs are out/dampers off. As has been said before the countersunk design of all parts means you can't build tweak in or out of the car.
Can anyone compare lengths with me? Particulary I'm intersted if a new top deck might sort it if I have a duff one.
#2734
Hi All,
I posted a few pages back about my bowed chassis.....
After building it all up piece by piece and checking for flatness in between I've traced the problem to the top deck. It's 0.6mm too short! I measure the didtance between inside hole centre on the top deck to be 154.2mm and the bulkhead holes are 154.8mm apart centre to centre.
I've attached a picture which illustrates the problem. Every other screw on the chassis/bulkhead/wings is done up and the chassis is flat. Both belts are off and the diffs are out/dampers off. As has been said before the countersunk design of all parts means you can't build tweak in or out of the car.
Can anyone compare lengths with me? Particulary I'm intersted if a new top deck might sort it if I have a duff one.
I posted a few pages back about my bowed chassis.....
After building it all up piece by piece and checking for flatness in between I've traced the problem to the top deck. It's 0.6mm too short! I measure the didtance between inside hole centre on the top deck to be 154.2mm and the bulkhead holes are 154.8mm apart centre to centre.
I've attached a picture which illustrates the problem. Every other screw on the chassis/bulkhead/wings is done up and the chassis is flat. Both belts are off and the diffs are out/dampers off. As has been said before the countersunk design of all parts means you can't build tweak in or out of the car.
Can anyone compare lengths with me? Particulary I'm intersted if a new top deck might sort it if I have a duff one.
#2735
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Car was good today but I've still got work to do. I think the chassis flexes too much on the carpet and causes a very aggressive feel. I didn't get to play with shock fluids today, but I will by this weekend. Car did come around pretty good throughout the day, I just need to calm it down a little. Overall good day with the car.
#2736
Car was good today but I've still got work to do. I think the chassis flexes too much on the carpet and causes a very aggressive feel. I didn't get to play with shock fluids today, but I will by this weekend. Car did come around pretty good throughout the day, I just need to calm it down a little. Overall good day with the car.
#2737
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
I'm running rubber tires. My problem right now is too much steering. I guess it should be easier to get rid of steering than it is to find steering. The traction is pretty low right now, so I'm probably wasting alot of time anyway. At least I'll have a good low/medium traction setup by the time I'm done.
#2738
I'm running rubber tires. My problem right now is too much steering. I guess it should be easier to get rid of steering than it is to find steering. The traction is pretty low right now, so I'm probably wasting alot of time anyway. At least I'll have a good low/medium traction setup by the time I'm done.
#2742
Just wanting to hear some opinions, I plan on running rubber tires on carpet, so should I go for the rubber edition kit or the foa
edition and just add a spool? Or if someone can point me to a out of the box rubber setup for carpet that'd be great!
edition and just add a spool? Or if someone can point me to a out of the box rubber setup for carpet that'd be great!
#2743
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Both kits cost the same. The foam kit comes with a front diff ($50 option), the rubber kit comes with a spool ($20) I would get the foam kit and pick up a spool with it. If you decide to run outside, the rubber chassis is also cheaper than the foam chassis so you save on the conversion. M2C.
#2744
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
You could go either direction really. If you plan on just doing rubber indoors and out get the rubber kit. If you might do some foam and rubber get the foam kit. Keep in mind if you use the foam kit in rubber it is stiff which in turn can make the car edgy. Either way you can't go wrong as there are very good setups for both already to be had.
#2745
Both kits cost the same. The foam kit comes with a front diff ($50 option), the rubber kit comes with a spool ($20) I would get the foam kit and pick up a spool with it. If you decide to run outside, the rubber chassis is also cheaper than the foam chassis so you save on the conversion. M2C.