T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#5161
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
My rear diff-dust covers seem to scrape on the rear bearing cap when rotated
in the manual it shows a distinct gap between the two after assembly yet mine didn't seem hav that
I've checked 3 times an the bearing shim is in place
any ideas?
Also the drive train doesn't seem very "free"
I havnt ran it yet - no elecs in it yet - plus it's not finished
will it loosen up after a few runs?
Front belt seemed excesivly tight on kit settings so I've loosened it up by rotating diff cams
this seemed a tad better on the freeness of drive train but still very stiff/tight
in the manual it shows a distinct gap between the two after assembly yet mine didn't seem hav that
I've checked 3 times an the bearing shim is in place
any ideas?
Also the drive train doesn't seem very "free"
I havnt ran it yet - no elecs in it yet - plus it's not finished
will it loosen up after a few runs?
Front belt seemed excesivly tight on kit settings so I've loosened it up by rotating diff cams
this seemed a tad better on the freeness of drive train but still very stiff/tight
#5162
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Also the drive train doesn't seem very "free"
I havnt ran it yet - no elecs in it yet - plus it's not finished
will it loosen up after a few runs?
Front belt seemed excesivly tight on kit settings so I've loosened it up by rotating diff cams
this seemed a tad better on the freeness of drive train but still very stiff/tight
I havnt ran it yet - no elecs in it yet - plus it's not finished
will it loosen up after a few runs?
Front belt seemed excesivly tight on kit settings so I've loosened it up by rotating diff cams
this seemed a tad better on the freeness of drive train but still very stiff/tight
And yeah front belt seems tight on stock cam setting, I also set mine looser, just small details like that and mine was very free once sorted.
#5163
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
Cheers
was almost tempted to put both bearing shims on the diff pulley side
I'll flip the pulley tommorrow
yea I noticed the spur pullies ran very close to top deck was gonna take a file to the deck
yea I took one shim off an fitted with just one so maybe I need to recheck the shimming - I left no shim on the side with the "leg" of the shaft an one kit shim on the otherside, will check that also
thanks for input
was almost tempted to put both bearing shims on the diff pulley side
I'll flip the pulley tommorrow
yea I noticed the spur pullies ran very close to top deck was gonna take a file to the deck
yea I took one shim off an fitted with just one so maybe I need to recheck the shimming - I left no shim on the side with the "leg" of the shaft an one kit shim on the otherside, will check that also
thanks for input
#5164
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Cheers
was almost tempted to put both bearing shims on the diff pulley side
I'll flip the pulley tommorrow
yea I noticed the spur pullies ran very close to top deck was gonna take a file to the deck
yea I took one shim off an fitted with just one so maybe I need to recheck the shimming - I left no shim on the side with the "leg" of the shaft an one kit shim on the otherside, will check that also
thanks for input
was almost tempted to put both bearing shims on the diff pulley side
I'll flip the pulley tommorrow
yea I noticed the spur pullies ran very close to top deck was gonna take a file to the deck
yea I took one shim off an fitted with just one so maybe I need to recheck the shimming - I left no shim on the side with the "leg" of the shaft an one kit shim on the otherside, will check that also
thanks for input
#5167
Tech Rookie
#5169
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
When u say about the bearing cams(diff) fully seated and ease of fitting camber plates....
My camber plates had approx 0.5-1mm gap between the bulkheads and the bearing cams/caps
should the have been flush? I tried pushin them in further an checked but that was bout as good as it got
I'll give the topdeck a kiss with the file I think then double check the spur/pulley setup
also flip diff pulley
My camber plates had approx 0.5-1mm gap between the bulkheads and the bearing cams/caps
should the have been flush? I tried pushin them in further an checked but that was bout as good as it got
I'll give the topdeck a kiss with the file I think then double check the spur/pulley setup
also flip diff pulley
#5170
Tech Rookie
#5171
When I was racing nitro wwaayy back in the 80's, we used toothpaste to lap/break-in a new engine or a rebuilded one. Even ran it on the track with the toothpaste and fuel for one tank to help break-in the engine. Toothpaste probably help break-in the gear diff. Break-in by holding one wheel and slowing applying power to 1/3-1/2 throttle for 30 seconds, repeat on the other side just like breaking in a ball diff.
#5174
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
When u say about the bearing cams(diff) fully seated and ease of fitting camber plates....
My camber plates had approx 0.5-1mm gap between the bulkheads and the bearing cams/caps
should the have been flush? I tried pushin them in further an checked but that was bout as good as it got
I'll give the topdeck a kiss with the file I think then double check the spur/pulley setup
also flip diff pulley
My camber plates had approx 0.5-1mm gap between the bulkheads and the bearing cams/caps
should the have been flush? I tried pushin them in further an checked but that was bout as good as it got
I'll give the topdeck a kiss with the file I think then double check the spur/pulley setup
also flip diff pulley
If the bearings on the center pulley are not seated fully, it will also put alot of drag on the drivetrain.