9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
10-11-2010, 06:44 PM
#5911
Got a question I picked up an older scythe car with a ton of parts. Ran it one time and had a blast now I'm looking at getting another car for a second class. I was wondering if the scythe parts were able to be used with the new photon car since I have so many spares. meaning arms chubs, steering block, hubs etc.
LMK
Thanks
Jeff
LMK
Thanks
Jeff
10-12-2010, 01:23 AM
#5913
Got a question I picked up an older scythe car with a ton of parts. Ran it one time and had a blast now I'm looking at getting another car for a second class. I was wondering if the scythe parts were able to be used with the new photon car since I have so many spares. meaning arms chubs, steering block, hubs etc.
LMK
Thanks
Jeff
LMK
Thanks
Jeff
Scythe parts are not really compatible with the Photon. Parts of the driveshafts are the same, and the complete Scythe suspension can be made to fit with a lot of shimming, but a few dimensions are different so the car will not handle the same anyway.
10-12-2010, 03:58 AM
#5914
Tech Adept
It's important that if you take the shims out from behind the gear you put it back in on the outside of the out drive. I spent quite a few hours last week figuring them things out and found that they need to have both those shims or the diff out drive will actually push back in and bind the gear causing them to break.
10-12-2010, 06:50 AM
#5916
Tech Adept
yeah that sounds useful ,too
thanks
thanks
10-12-2010, 10:03 AM
#5918
Advice please,
I’ve got the Photon setup using a bastardized Marcos J. setup with 2.5mm top deck / 3.0 6-cell chassis (that’s what it came with), and 1.6 front 1.4 rear sway bar cause there was just too much grip on the car. Worked great for one of our medium grip / small tracks. Our other club is starting up real soon and is about to get new CRC carpet and the surface is maybe not as smooth either and I’m assuming the grip isn’t going to be great there either to start with..
Here are my options:
1. I have two 2.0mm top deck (1 is missing the horizontal connecting piece so giving more flex) and the 2.5mm top deck.
2. I also have one 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm 6-cell chassis plate
If I wanted to give the car a bit more flex to accommodate a slightly not as smooth track with a bit less grip, would you play around with the top deck pieces first by going down in stiffness, or would you change right off the bat with the 2.5mm chassis? Or would I drive what I got now and just maybe only need to remove the sway bars? Buying the lipo chassis is not one of my options.
Also, just wondering how important it is to sand your bottom edge of the chassis plate and CA after?
Any advice is much appreciated.
Ivan
I’ve got the Photon setup using a bastardized Marcos J. setup with 2.5mm top deck / 3.0 6-cell chassis (that’s what it came with), and 1.6 front 1.4 rear sway bar cause there was just too much grip on the car. Worked great for one of our medium grip / small tracks. Our other club is starting up real soon and is about to get new CRC carpet and the surface is maybe not as smooth either and I’m assuming the grip isn’t going to be great there either to start with..
Here are my options:
1. I have two 2.0mm top deck (1 is missing the horizontal connecting piece so giving more flex) and the 2.5mm top deck.
2. I also have one 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm 6-cell chassis plate
If I wanted to give the car a bit more flex to accommodate a slightly not as smooth track with a bit less grip, would you play around with the top deck pieces first by going down in stiffness, or would you change right off the bat with the 2.5mm chassis? Or would I drive what I got now and just maybe only need to remove the sway bars? Buying the lipo chassis is not one of my options.
Also, just wondering how important it is to sand your bottom edge of the chassis plate and CA after?
Any advice is much appreciated.
Ivan
10-12-2010, 11:42 AM
#5919
This weekend TOP in Japan hobby show
have some new product for Photon
have some new product for Photon
10-12-2010, 12:04 PM
#5920
Advice please,
I’ve got the Photon setup using a bastardized Marcos J. setup with 2.5mm top deck / 3.0 6-cell chassis (that’s what it came with), and 1.6 front 1.4 rear sway bar cause there was just too much grip on the car. Worked great for one of our medium grip / small tracks. Our other club is starting up real soon and is about to get new CRC carpet and the surface is maybe not as smooth either and I’m assuming the grip isn’t going to be great there either to start with..
Here are my options:
1. I have two 2.0mm top deck (1 is missing the horizontal connecting piece so giving more flex) and the 2.5mm top deck.
2. I also have one 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm 6-cell chassis plate
If I wanted to give the car a bit more flex to accommodate a slightly not as smooth track with a bit less grip, would you play around with the top deck pieces first by going down in stiffness, or would you change right off the bat with the 2.5mm chassis? Or would I drive what I got now and just maybe only need to remove the sway bars? Buying the lipo chassis is not one of my options.
Also, just wondering how important it is to sand your bottom edge of the chassis plate and CA after?
Any advice is much appreciated.
Ivan
I’ve got the Photon setup using a bastardized Marcos J. setup with 2.5mm top deck / 3.0 6-cell chassis (that’s what it came with), and 1.6 front 1.4 rear sway bar cause there was just too much grip on the car. Worked great for one of our medium grip / small tracks. Our other club is starting up real soon and is about to get new CRC carpet and the surface is maybe not as smooth either and I’m assuming the grip isn’t going to be great there either to start with..
Here are my options:
1. I have two 2.0mm top deck (1 is missing the horizontal connecting piece so giving more flex) and the 2.5mm top deck.
2. I also have one 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm 6-cell chassis plate
If I wanted to give the car a bit more flex to accommodate a slightly not as smooth track with a bit less grip, would you play around with the top deck pieces first by going down in stiffness, or would you change right off the bat with the 2.5mm chassis? Or would I drive what I got now and just maybe only need to remove the sway bars? Buying the lipo chassis is not one of my options.
Also, just wondering how important it is to sand your bottom edge of the chassis plate and CA after?
Any advice is much appreciated.
Ivan
10-12-2010, 12:15 PM
#5921
Its usually best to just try the car and work from there, but in general taking off the sway bars will give you more roll and more traction, it might be all it needs. Until you see how much grip there is or isn't its hard to say what is the best choice, I go with the easier options first, bars, springs, topdeck, etc.
Oh wait... it's not an option.
10-12-2010, 10:27 PM
#5923
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Be sure to do your sanding while running water on it, CF dust is very bad for you. I use 100 grit wet to knock down the edge, then finish with 400 wet.
10-13-2010, 07:50 PM
#5924
Its usually best to just try the car and work from there, but in general taking off the sway bars will give you more roll and more traction, it might be all it needs. Until you see how much grip there is or isn't its hard to say what is the best choice, I go with the easier options first, bars, springs, topdeck, etc.
Ivan
