Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car >

T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car

Like Tree9Likes

T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car

Old 08-05-2010, 06:41 PM
  #5176  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
 
tallyrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: palm city, fl
Posts: 2,594
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AdamD
Just give Michael a call at TOP Racing USA I'm sure he can hook you up with a gear diff. 650-583-8898.
are they in stock?
tallyrc is offline  
Old 08-05-2010, 07:39 PM
  #5177  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (239)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 33,128
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MikeXray
Tony, did your gear diffs free up after some use? I just got mine, part of me wants to use some old school diff breakin techniques, part of me wants to just run it
It took mine about 5 runs, I took it apart cleaned the stock grease , filled it up with 10,000 diff fluid and now is smooth as butter
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 08-05-2010, 08:11 PM
  #5178  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
paraletic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ADELAIDE
Posts: 553
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Build was goin well till had do the sway bar mounts

seeing as they a drilled out alloy thread I decided to pre tap/thread the ball cup using the grub screw, so there shouldn't be any tension on the alloy collie when threading into the cup
well soon as it was half turn from being snug (not tight just snug) it sheard off inside the cup

WTF!! 3 went together well by pre threading the cup using the steel grub screw but the last one snapped off
pretty shitty with that

so much for gettin a run with it prior to my state titles (not running it without some decent track time an testing)

by time I get another one in from over seas will be bit late

seems T.O.P aust are closed for there move

Looks like I better get back to my old chassis an get that ready
paraletic is offline  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:07 PM
  #5179  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
 
L.Fairtrace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Beyond the Wall
Posts: 3,810
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by paraletic
Build was goin well till had do the sway bar mounts

seeing as they a drilled out alloy thread I decided to pre tap/thread the ball cup using the grub screw, so there shouldn't be any tension on the alloy collie when threading into the cup
well soon as it was half turn from being snug (not tight just snug) it sheard off inside the cup

WTF!! 3 went together well by pre threading the cup using the steel grub screw but the last one snapped off
pretty shitty with that

so much for gettin a run with it prior to my state titles (not running it without some decent track time an testing)

by time I get another one in from over seas will be bit late

seems T.O.P aust are closed for there move

Looks like I better get back to my old chassis an get that ready

I do fairly well and I almost never run any bars on this car ever. I actually hate swaybars with a passion. Give it a shot without bars you might be surprised.
L.Fairtrace is offline  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:07 PM
  #5180  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Hugh Jazz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: On a park bench
Posts: 1,635
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by paraletic
Build was goin well till had do the sway bar mounts

seeing as they a drilled out alloy thread I decided to pre tap/thread the ball cup using the grub screw, so there shouldn't be any tension on the alloy collie when threading into the cup
well soon as it was half turn from being snug (not tight just snug) it sheard off inside the cup

WTF!! 3 went together well by pre threading the cup using the steel grub screw but the last one snapped off
pretty shitty with that

so much for gettin a run with it prior to my state titles (not running it without some decent track time an testing)

by time I get another one in from over seas will be bit late

seems T.O.P aust are closed for there move

Looks like I better get back to my old chassis an get that ready
Robbie will be at the SA Titles so you to can compare setups.
Hugh Jazz is offline  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:17 PM
  #5181  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
paraletic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ADELAIDE
Posts: 553
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Yea mite have to try it without for now
as I'm dyin to give it a shake down run an can't see me gettin parts for it in a hurry

thanks Hugh, yea have to see how I go with it first up
gotta get set up to my driving style etc an get comf with it
otherwise I'll play safe n run the ol xxx-s
paraletic is offline  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:51 PM
  #5182  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
paraletic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ADELAIDE
Posts: 553
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Am I correct in thinking that when using the mid size servo saver on the lipi chassis that I hav to reverse the servo mounts an fit the servo to the outer holes on the chassis?
If I mount it as per the instructions the servo saver fouls on the top deck

this then puts the servo further away from the centre line of the chassis - hence it hangs out over the edge of the chassis alot more

I'm running a JR-DS8915 servo if that helps
paraletic is offline  
Old 08-05-2010, 10:41 PM
  #5183  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Bishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 2,223
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I needed like 1-2mm of extra spacers and mine is fine, but yeah you can mount it on the outside holes although I'm not sure that is what they are there for, but some have done it that way, I considered it but I'm using the current gap to tuck in my wires until I can shorten all of them.
Bishop is offline  
Old 08-06-2010, 07:36 AM
  #5184  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
paraletic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ADELAIDE
Posts: 553
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

How does one measure droop on these cars
ie: where do you measure from?

I have a team magic droop tool with two t-bar blocks to sit under the chassis and then the droop gauge

I'm guessing I measure the rear droop on the arm itself just in front of the loop?
And the front droop off the c-hub ??

I've never been the best at doing droop etc
kit set up states 5.5mm
so on my gauge it has -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3 etc etc so id set it halfway between my 5 & 6 marks on my gauge? Or would this be wrong (my Gauge is stepped not constant slope)

thanks for any input
paraletic is offline  
Old 08-06-2010, 12:11 PM
  #5185  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (239)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 33,128
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by paraletic
How does one measure droop on these cars
ie: where do you measure from?

I have a team magic droop tool with two t-bar blocks to sit under the chassis and then the droop gauge

I'm guessing I measure the rear droop on the arm itself just in front of the loop?
And the front droop off the c-hub ??

I've never been the best at doing droop etc
kit set up states 5.5mm
so on my gauge it has -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3 etc etc so id set it halfway between my 5 & 6 marks on my gauge? Or would this be wrong (my Gauge is stepped not constant slope)

thanks for any input

I do mine with a droop gauge on the bottom of the arm( to make sure they are the same left and right) then I mount the wheels and redo the droop with a ride height gauge(over ride height)
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 08-06-2010, 01:07 PM
  #5186  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

For you gear diff gurus...

Are there advantages for using only 4 internal gears (besides lightweight) as oppose to the 6 internal gears like the Spec-R design?

Thanks..
cvccsi is offline  
Old 08-06-2010, 06:33 PM
  #5187  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,755
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

I can say from the parking lot test that dropping in a gear diff will give you onpower snap, right around snap I'm expecting it to be better at the track, but I think I'd leave the ball diff in any low traction scenarios for sure.
MikeXray is offline  
Old 08-06-2010, 08:53 PM
  #5188  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (80)
 
pakk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,082
Trader Rating: 80 (100%+)
Default one-way and flipped belts

Is anyone running a one way and flipped belts? Can you just move the pulley to the other side?
pakk is offline  
Old 08-06-2010, 08:54 PM
  #5189  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (239)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 33,128
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by pakk
Is anyone running a one way and flipped belts? Can you just move the pulley to the other side?
you would have to flip the oneway bearings inside the axle.
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 08-06-2010, 09:00 PM
  #5190  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (80)
 
pakk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,082
Trader Rating: 80 (100%+)
Default

I'm not familiar with construction of the photon one way. Is that something you can do?


In my TC5, I just moved the pulley to the other side, but I had to add spacers to get it to sit right.
pakk is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.