David-M

Well by now it's clear that it is the weak point of the car, and therefore I don't understand why after all this time there isn't still the solution. Rather than low quality I think that plastic is not suitable and that they had to do simply in metal. A shame for a good car...

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I'm using rear metal shaft cup and rear gear box in front- solid as a rock! Just add o-ring in the metal shaft cup to keep the center shaft from falling out.


New tuning option in stock,

http://www41.instantestore.net/merch...rear-tower.cfm

Fabiz

The same with the outdrives on the CVD's. Those are weak as well...

And bout the rear gearbox in the front: You can't use lay-down suspension when using the rear gearbox in front, can you?

Fabiz

David-M

So I should only order the "86194 Spur Gear Hub" right? (the front and rear gearbox are the same no?)
And we lose the laydown?

P.s. great hop ups.

Manny

I believe you can cut off the shock mounts from the gearbox if you still want to use the laydown configuration

Mike, is the metal drivecup used in the front supported by only one bearing?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Correct and correct though the stand up shocks works much better. Less parts, less slop and shock changes are easier to detect.

To hold the single bearing use the 3 holes provided- simply install 3 button head screws with 3 steel washers.

Maxxican

iTrader: (67)

3 questions here

does any one have a procedure for building the optional aluminum shocks? I built mine without instructions and they leak like crazy. Ive looked on the HPI site but no luck and they are different than the stock plastic shocks.

what FDR to use on a 21.5 brushless? on a medium (80ft straight) good traction track.

has anyone upgraded to 64p gears do they fit?

dylanb23

If they do end up coming out with an 02' body... i would but at least 3.
I got the cup racer originally because the Datsun 510 was "The poor mans bimmer". There was the Alpina style that was posted a while back, but if the Turbo style came out... holy !@#$. Let the games begin.
........___........
....../......\......
...(O=00=O)....
....| |......| |.....
...___.....
_//|_\\__
-O----O-/

Sydewynder

Did you use part #13 from parts tree 85282 to hold the o-ring in place before putting in the C clip?


Sorry can't help on your gearing question. I'm not running a 21.5 T.

callender89

iTrader: (33)

Hey guys, Im a noob this on road craze. These cup racers look absolutely amazing though. Couple of questions. What system are you guys using in your cup racers? I plan to race it locally at club type races, parking lot/indoor track (WCRC).

Thanks in advance for your help!

tha Beast

iTrader: (100)

me to im not new to RC but im new to on road 1/10 scale im currently racing a Hot Bodies Cyclone TC and im loving it but my son and i want to start racing the Cup Racer but i have a few questions 1. can you fit a 1/12 scale servo on this 2. what issues or weak points to the car 3. where can i find tire and wheels( white dish wheels and racing tires ) thanks in advance

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

ask at your local track to see what they run in them I've personally run 27t stocker in mine with a tekin FX Pro, as well as a 17.5 with a tekin RS in...there's even been talk at one of the tracks near me about trying 21.5 motors in the car...and then there's guys on this thread putting 10.5 (and lower) motors in them - crazy, but they work...

Just ask and see what your local place does before dropping $$ on a system that might not work for you

here you go:

1) no, a 12th scale servo will be too small to mount on the CR servo posts...Yes, you could take it in, but the torque will most likely me too lower to handle the CR - remember, its just a smaller TC

2) the biggest are the little 'nipples' on the front diff gear (this is the one that the driveshaft connects too and turns the front diff...MikeR uses the metal gear from the rear and he likes it - i haven't tried it as mine is packed away for the winter...

3) you can use any mini-car wheels on this, so if you look at atomic, 3racing, square, they should make a dish wheel and a 'racing' tire...all the HPI wheels/tires are realistic rims (ie, no dishes) and can only mount the CR tires...and CR tires can only go on CR rims - mounting bead is special for the CR...I've run Tamiya 60D tires on my car and they worked pretty well

tha Beast

iTrader: (100)

cool thanks for the info ill be ordering mine this week thanks again

jakeg1999

iTrader: (47)

Ok, I am very excited to have my new Porsche in the mail. I always wanted one as a kid. I also really want a Mini Cooper body and was wondering if anyone here has found one that fits the cup racer?

alfredoR23

Looking for a esc/motor combo that will provide realistic speed and lay down enough power for smooth drifting. I plan on adding all the hop ups on hpi's site. I'm getting the levin drift kit and have an extra set of wheels with the softer compounds. I'll be setting up makeshift tracks for drifting and time attack at a local park which has smooth asphalt in some areas and semi-smooth in others.

Anyway, after researching this thread it's lead me to the Novak Havok sensored esc brushless combo. (can't link yet but it's LXWLX0 at towerhobbies, that's the item # $149) It's designed for VTA so I'm guessing it fits the realistic speed criteria.

What lipo will fit the chasis without modification while still keeping the speed quick but realistic with good run times?

I have read this entire thread and searched and found some results but not exact answers or opinions.