Tamiya TRF415
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
So with that said, the 415 pulley does not fit TA05 due to the center hole is smaller but the TA05 pulley will fit the 415 diff unit?
I noticed that to myself coz I bought the TA05 spool (intended for my 414M but pulley ctr hole was too small to fit the spool unit). I ended up using the steel outdrives that came w/ TA05 spool & used it instead w/ the TAM 415 spool since the delrin outdrives don't last long which I also noticed some of the TRF drivers @ the TITC '06 race have done as well.
I noticed that to myself coz I bought the TA05 spool (intended for my 414M but pulley ctr hole was too small to fit the spool unit). I ended up using the steel outdrives that came w/ TA05 spool & used it instead w/ the TAM 415 spool since the delrin outdrives don't last long which I also noticed some of the TRF drivers @ the TITC '06 race have done as well.
Ok i have a few questions for this thread....meaning i need a lil help. Ok for the MSX what Rear belts do you run and how tight do you run them?
Also How do you keep a rear diff in your car? Is there any special way to break them in or anything special anyone has figured out that might help?
Any help would be great!!! Thanks
Also How do you keep a rear diff in your car? Is there any special way to break them in or anything special anyone has figured out that might help?
Any help would be great!!! Thanks
Originally Posted by trf_racer
You don't need to break in the diff. They are good to go.
For the belts, if you see it skipping or wobbling, maybe it's time to tighten it.
For the belts, if you see it skipping or wobbling, maybe it's time to tighten it.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,289
numan , I'm still having diff problems too. I still have the feeling that my diff is not grabbing right away or my belts are slipping and I replaced everything in the drive train.
Rod C or Cory lewis we need help
Rod C or Cory lewis we need help
Josh, try this stuff from Nexus Racing when building your diff.
Black Grease
Diff Lube
For the belt issue, ditch the white belts and run the black belts.
Black Grease
Diff Lube
For the belt issue, ditch the white belts and run the black belts.
Josh, this is Rod...here's something that I always look at when I build or rebuild diffs. If you look very closely at the thrust bearing, you'll see that one side of the inner race has a slightly more conical shape and the other side will have a slightly flatter shape...We've been told that diffs turn out better when the flat side faces the cap screw the concical section faces the nut on the other side of the diff. I pack that lil bearing with Mobil1 grease (lifetime supply for like a buck at Pepboys). I use the Associated silicon lube (the red label grease) for the diff balls (good combo so that there isn't any excess diff spin, but may have a bit too much stiction). I save the Carbide balls for big races and use the relatively cheap "lightweight" balls for club and practice. Another important thing is to have a clean diff plate whenever you build/rebuild the diff. Flip it over if you need to lol. And when you reuse diff balls/thrust bearings...use A LOT of Motorspray to clean them. When you initially tighten the cap screw, don't crank down on it right away, just do it in like two-three steps and work the diff at each setp by spinning it in your hands. Do the final diff adjustment in the car. I hope this helps but please know that I am not exactly a world class diff builder ha
On the belts the rear white ones get tore up rather quickly with 6-7 turns
and there really isn't much I have done to prevent it...sorry can't help you there. It seems that some belts new out of package require a different belt setting...I typically start all of mine at two clicks tighter for modified.
XingXing-yes the belt does get close to the servo stay and on occasion it'll rub but it's not that big of a deal. One of my original 415's no longer has blue anodizing on that side of the servo stay
On the belts the rear white ones get tore up rather quickly with 6-7 turns
and there really isn't much I have done to prevent it...sorry can't help you there. It seems that some belts new out of package require a different belt setting...I typically start all of mine at two clicks tighter for modified.XingXing-yes the belt does get close to the servo stay and on occasion it'll rub but it's not that big of a deal. One of my original 415's no longer has blue anodizing on that side of the servo stay
I bought 2 MSX alloy diffs with no instructions. No problem in building them as they build the same as the standard ones but I can not see how they're adjustable in place as it uses a standard cap diff bolt that you can not get to with the drive shaft in????
Evening all,
Does anyone know if the yokomo 15 x 10 BD outdrive bearings will fit the 415 (replacement for the 1510 one)? I've had a 1510 bearing go bad on me last night, got another race next weekend and haven't got time to order one in from accross the seas.
Cheers
Dan Chambers
Does anyone know if the yokomo 15 x 10 BD outdrive bearings will fit the 415 (replacement for the 1510 one)? I've had a 1510 bearing go bad on me last night, got another race next weekend and haven't got time to order one in from accross the seas.
Cheers
Dan Chambers
Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Evening all,
Does anyone know if the yokomo 15 x 10 BD outdrive bearings will fit the 415 (replacement for the 1510 one)? I've had a 1510 bearing go bad on me last night, got another race next weekend and haven't got time to order one in from accross the seas.
Cheers
Dan Chambers
Does anyone know if the yokomo 15 x 10 BD outdrive bearings will fit the 415 (replacement for the 1510 one)? I've had a 1510 bearing go bad on me last night, got another race next weekend and haven't got time to order one in from accross the seas.
Cheers
Dan Chambers



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