m8commando

iTrader: (7)

A couple of questions for you 415MSX owners

1. Is there a durable spool out there for this car, and is the delrin Tamiya spool worth the purchase.

2. How do you get the steering slop out of the graphite/bearings. Anyone have any suggestions. It doesnt make sense.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

The tamiya spool is fine for outdoor work I find... indoors, I wouldn't chance it though. You could try the TiR one, has removable alloy outdrives.

Regarding steering slop, most of it actually comes from the ball cups, but there are a few things you can do to help reduce it.

1) place 0.1 or 0.2mm shims on the aaxles, between the hex pin and bearing. Do so the axle still spins freely.
2) Use axle spacers on the steering posts. I've found that 0.3mm below, and 0.1mm above seems to work very well at stoping the bellcranks riding up the posts, which also seems to be a specific area which induces slop. (the old setup on the std and MS only required 0.3mm)
3) only use 1 0.1mm shim between the steering rack bearings and bell crank. 0.2mm seems to make the rack "wobble". Using 0.1mm keeps the rack from binding on the bell cranks, but reduces the wobble.
4) make sure your C-hubs are shimmed properly

A 5th one to add, for thoose who have the conversion, is get hold of the grub screw outer hinge pin set. This helps remove some slop also by tightening up the C-hub onto the pin. Just make sure the pins are still free to rotate in the wishbone.

With all thoose points done, you really are only left with changing the ball joints and cups. I've only really used the Tamiya ones, so can't comment on others... but a little bit of slop doesn't seem to hurt the performance (just make sure you push back on the axles when setting toe-in )

HiH
Ed

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone tried the "plastic" bag over the ball stud trick to remove slop? I know it worked on the Yokomo ones. But haven't tried it on the Tamiya ball studs. Also if you superglue the steering plate bearings in place, it will help reduce some slop as well. This prevents the bearing from wiggling around in the graphite steering plate.

As for the Tamiya spool, I very much prefer those over steel ones. My testing has showed me the Tamiya spool gave me more corner speed with less chatter vs the steel spools. However they can be very fragile. In fact I just bought 2 of them off of SpeedtechRC. They finally got a shipment in. Been looking all over for them.

hierog

iTrader: (6)

i finished building my msx, put it on the setting board and started to adjust toe/camber etc. However, in order to get the settings correct, my right turnbuckle which adjusts toe is significantly longer compared to the left, which makes the turning radius turning right much larger than turning left. it's weird in that this is how it must be set in order to keep my toe/camber combination correct!! the turnbuckles are both the same size, so i am even more baffled.

any suggestions before i build another set of turnbuckles?

thanks

vic

trf_racer

I am pretty sure that you did something wrong when assembling your car. Check the hole that you use on the front upright that connects to the steering turnbuckle.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

You bought two spools! I've been wondering if there is any aftermarket company that just sells the delrin outdrives that will fit the Tamiya spool. If not then I will have to buy replacement spools just for the outdrives! I like the delrin outdrives, very smooth and improves turning because it's not as likely to chatter like the steel ones! I tried the steel outdrives on my 415 that was from the TA05 spool and it chatters at full throw. Anybody knows of replacement delrin outdrive or that maybe modified to work, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in advance!

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

Just finished the ride. Getting ready to set it up and I could use a few suggestions. First, some background: planning on running carpet stock and 19T with foams, 3mm chassis, standard arms, front diff, etc (check the pics).

Questions:
1. What's the internal drive ratio for the MSX?
2. What's a good final drive ratio?
3. A hole does not exist to mount the center aluminum brace (in front of the motor, that goes from the top deck to the chassis)...should I drill one?
4. Do the diff need a lot of breaking in?

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've never run Tamiya and after building it, this car has excellent fit & finish. I hoping to run it on asphalt one day with rubber, but I've got plenty of nitro onroad obligations to contend with before I launch into another category. Thanks in advance.

Watch out Carl...

dodo

the internal ratio is 2.187, you can find it in the manual

it's strange that there's no hole to mount the center alum. brace. i got the first batch of MSX kit and it's there. in that case you should drill one, or maybe you want to check with your LHS whether they can do anything about it.

trf_racer

Your chassis does not have a hole for the center post because it's the 3mm chassis. It's from the original TRF415.

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

I think the 3mm chassis is a MS chassis. My 2.5mm MSX chassis has the hole and I can line it up perfectly, but if it's not needed for stability, then why drill it.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

My MS chassis is 2.5mm.

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

The 3mm chassis is not from the MS, the MS was 2.5mm only. trf_racer is correct, it's from the standard 415.

dodo

my bad i didn't read abt the 3 mm chassis in ur earlier post.
my suggestion : try it out, if it feels fine then no need to go through the hassle of drilling the hole.

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

Sorry, I'm showing my newbie knowledge of this cars history. I received a back up car with full MS parts on it and it used this chassis.

Until the 4mm chassis arrives in the US in late Feb, is this the stiffest chassis I can get?

RayWarner

Oh yeah!! Who says? Look me up if you need something at IRP.